Cuda SRT8 392 Gen.III Hemi

-
The AlterKtion kit is, in my opinion, the best of the aftermarket suspension kits out there. It's the best engineered and it truly is a bolt-in, perfect fit. They use the stock V8 crank centerline height and lateral measurements and the engine sits LEVEL and has clearance around it, unlike the TTI "kit". Also, they worked with TTI to create a version of the TTI headers that are made to go with the AlterK. As shown below, the engine is now a decent fit. However, my prior wife use to tell me "you always have to take it to the MAX, don't you....you always have to take it to the MAX!" I decided although the engine fitted, I wanted to create even better clearances.
 

Attachments

  • Final eng. fit 01.JPG
    55.7 KB · Views: 1,841
  • Final eng. fit 02.JPG
    45.6 KB · Views: 1,724
  • Final eng. fit 04.jpg
    76.8 KB · Views: 1,719
As I said above, although the engine did "fit", I wanted to create even better clearances. I cut the stock brackets loose on the AlterK and moved the engine over about a half inch. RMS was kind enough to send me some new, unnotched brackets that I custom cut to my engine re-fitment. I've got great clearance to the inner fender now (also changed to 2010 valve cover bolts). I also ground off the frame flange; welded it and finished it off real nice. Great clearance now to the alternator.

My alternator fits the LX/LC cars and bolts up to the side mounts of the timing cover (the Cherokee alt. bolts up to the front mounts on the timing cover and reportedly provides additional clearance). I'll be using the police pkg. version that puts out 220 amps. (I always have to "take it to the MAX!") :)
 

Attachments

  • Final fit 04.JPG
    44.4 KB · Views: 1,572
  • Final fit 03.JPG
    45.1 KB · Views: 1,594
  • Final fit 02.JPG
    48.9 KB · Views: 1,612
  • Final fit 01.JPG
    47.2 KB · Views: 1,620
  • Final fit 05.JPG
    64.5 KB · Views: 1,601
  • Final fit 06.jpg
    79.6 KB · Views: 1,615
  • Final fit 07.JPG
    67.8 KB · Views: 1,602
that pan is great...just what is needed, regardless of K-frame used....stock, RMS...or "other". I had been talking to Johnparts and TinCup about modifying the front sump in a simaliar manner to this to keep the Hemi low in the front...but this pan over the top!


luv the build!
 
Sick build. I have to agree things do seem to fit well in there. BES makes one of the best built strokers out there today. Right up there with PWR. That pan is on my list of needed parts think they would reproduce it?
 
Thanks for the compliments you guys.

HemiDenny,
I've seen plenty of Chevy and Ford pans done this way, just not any Mopars. I don't want my car real low, but also didn't want to have to raise it up to avoid hitting something. The stock Gen.3 pans are pretty vulnerable if used in an A-body. My new pan is just right!

johnparts,
I'm not sure if they could reproduce it or not. It would seem they probably use CAD machines and such. Probably have a file saved? I could probably find the names of the people I talked to back there. That would be a place to start...
 
The TTI conversion pieces didn't fit worth CRAP! I called them about this and they said "gee, we've never had any OTHER complaints". Yeah, right. The alternator virtually touched the frame flange on the pass. side; the header hit the torsion bar on the driver side to the point you could not get the T-bar into the control arm socket. Plus, not only was it offset to the pass. side (like any old Mopar), it was also CROOKED. Looked like hell.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the verification...I couldn't believe my eyes when I first looked at mine after we dropped it in last weekend -
 
I believe the AlterKtion is the best engineered aftermarket suspension on the market. With that said, I bought mine quite some time ago and it had the earlier design, 2x2, mitered crossmember. Although strong and light, I never liked how it looked. I ended up cutting it off and installing a mandrel bent, 2x4 crossmember I got from a street rod shop. I also welded in some gusseting. For a little extra strength, I tacked in some diamond and triangle shaped reinforcement plates and had a local kid who's an artist with a TIG put some nice, delicate welds around the plates. I had it powdercoated satin black (no pic) and am thrilled with the final result. Too bad once the car is complete, no one will ever see it or know the difference. But at least I can sleep at night. :D A side benefit from this is I'll now have great clearance for the stock oil filter on the Gen3. :finga:
 

Attachments

  • Kmod 07.JPG
    71.1 KB · Views: 1,575
  • Kmod 05.JPG
    68.1 KB · Views: 1,577
  • Kmod 02.JPG
    86.4 KB · Views: 1,611
  • Kmod 03.JPG
    56.9 KB · Views: 1,553
  • Kmod 04.JPG
    64.8 KB · Views: 1,585
  • Kmod 01.JPG
    57.8 KB · Views: 1,580
That's the true hotrod spirit there. I didn't like the brand new part so I cut it up and changed it. I like how you think.
 
How much clearance do you gain with the steering rack over standard drag link?
 
johnparts,
LOL I had a small restoration / streetrod shop back in the 90s and found that everything I bought, whether it was streetrod stuff or repro stuff for a classic, had to be massaged or modified to make it work. I finally got smart and started having my customers provide the parts so I could charge THEM for the extra work instead of me eating the cost. However, what I did to the AlterK was just a personal preference type of thing, as it truely bolts in and works as designed.

MoparDaddy,
When I first was trying to use my stock K, the drag link was going to rub on the rear sump, steel truck pan I was trying to use. I think Charlies Pans was the only aftermarket pan available at that time, around '04. However, there were so many other clearance / poor fit issues going on that I didn't proceed with the stock K.

I antied up for the AlterKtion, which created great clearance overall. The rear sump truck pan has tons of clearance from the steering rack, but the sump is pretty low. I designed a custom pan for my car, but I do know a guy who had an inch or so cut out of the bottom of the truck pan and used it.
 
Rat Patrol,
I looked at that alternator when the first 6.1 Jeeps hit the market in (I believe) '07. I noticed the housing was different than the LX alt. and mounted different, but couldn't see a difference in the center point of the pulley (I think I did some measuring back then), so I dismissed needing it vs. the LX unit I already had.

The actual mounting point on the timing cover is slightly lower for the Jeep alt., but the housing of the alt. may in fact be designed to raise it up or tuck it in a bit. It would be great if you have BOTH alts. on hand and can compare the two directly on your car and post pics in your build thread. That would be great for those people still gathering their conversion parts.

If there's a difference, it may have influenced my choice, but I do want to use the high output 220 amp police alt. anyway. Thanks for your input...
 
Cuda SRT8 said:
johnparts,
I had a small restoration / streetrod shop back in the 90s and found that everything I bought, whether it was streetrod stuff or repro stuff for a classic, had to be massaged or modified to make it work. I finally got smart and started having my customers provide the parts so I could charge THEM for the extra work instead of having to eat it myself. However, what I did to the AlterK was just a personal preference type of thing, as it truely bolts in and works as designed.

MoparDaddy,
When I first was trying to use my stock K, the drag link was going to rub on the rear sump, steel truck pan I was trying to use. I think Charlies Pans was the only aftermarket pan available at that time, around '04. However, there were so many other clearance / poor fit issues going on that I didn't proceed with the stock K.

I antied up for the AlterKtion, which created all kinds of clearance overall. The rear sump truck pan has tons of clearance from the steering rack, but the sump is pretty low. I designed a custom pan for my car, but I do know a guy who had an inch or so cut out of the bottom of the truck pan and used it.
Click to expand...

That's good!
 
I did compare both alts - unfortunately I didn't own both at the same time so no comparison pic is available.........but I can assure anyone trying this that the Jeep alt makes for a little more room. :glasses7:
 
Over the years I've learned to make / build tools if need be, to get the job done. I'm building my car in the garage by myself, so I created this system of dollys to be able to take my drivetrain in and out during the mockup process. This was invaluable, because I would have broken bones and smashed fingers and other body parts putting the components in by myself, laying on my back on the floor. LOL The dollys / concept is not my own idea, just my own "take" on others I've seen over the years.
 

Attachments

  • Dolly 03.jpg
    62.7 KB · Views: 1,471
  • Dolly 04.JPG
    75.6 KB · Views: 1,470
  • Dolly 02.JPG
    63.1 KB · Views: 1,471
  • Dolly 01.JPG
    67.3 KB · Views: 1,492
Absolutely a work of art. I've never had these kind of fab skills.
 
67Dart273,
Wow, thanks for the compliment. I've learned a lot through the years and find there's always more to learn. I'm so impressed with the spectacular builds on this website and I've barely touched the surface in looking at them. Thanks again...
 
Here's a couple of shots of the front floor area of my car. I rebuilt the trans tunnel completely to fit the Tremec under there with plenty of room around it (I hate interference fit lol). I also re-fabbed the seat area so I can securly mount some SRT8 buckets seats in the car. The seats are soooo comfortable; I want to drive it so bad! I eliminated the stock, left side under dash Ebrake mechanism in favor of a center mount Viper Ebrake mechanism. There were a few other Ebrake assemblies I considered, but I wanted something from Chrysler and really liked the Viper unit. The tunnel now has brackets welded on for a console that I'll fabricate. Not quite sure yet of a design for it, but I have time before that will become a priority...
 

Attachments

  • Int. 02.JPG
    64.3 KB · Views: 1,541
  • Int. 01.JPG
    53.5 KB · Views: 1,543
I restored (and showed) this Gullwing for an older gent (RIP George) back in the '90s. It was very inspirational for me and influential for my Cuda build. He and his wife did not have children and neither do my wife and I. Therefore, I decided to do a somewhat "GT touring car" interior for just driver and passenger; no rear seat. That's me being grilled by the judges. I won two 1st in class and two 2nd in class with this car. I want my Cuda to be every bit as nice...
 

Attachments

  • SL 001.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 1,516
  • SL 02.jpg
    106.6 KB · Views: 1,500
Looking good... Keep it up and u will be treadless in no time;)
 
So, in place of the rear seat, there will be an electrical cabinet to house the battery; the ECM; the ISIS electrical system; a built in trickle charger and maybe a couple of other items if I have room. The whole rear cargo area will be carpeted. As mentioned earlier, the spare tire will mount under the fastback window like the early Shelby GT350s. Then for those familiar with fastback Cudas, the hinged trunk separater panel...
 

Attachments

  • Int. 04.JPG
    64.8 KB · Views: 1,519
  • Int. 05.JPG
    64.2 KB · Views: 1,577
  • Int. 06.JPG
    69.2 KB · Views: 1,494
Cuda SRT8 said:
I restored (and showed) this Gullwing for an older gent (RIP George) back in the '90s. It was very inspirational for me and influential for my Cuda build. He and his wife did not have children and neither do my wife and I. Therefore, I decided to do a somewhat "GT touring car" interior for just driver and passenger; no rear seat. That's me being grilled by the judges. I won two 1st in class and two 2nd in class with this car. I want my Cuda to be every bit as nice...
Click to expand...

is that you in the hat?

just kiddin. I think
 
I had the same idea for an ebrake assembly but was planning to use a Neon one. Same as Viper just without the better handle.

Great work!

Riddler
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top