Does This Debunk the "Coolant Can Flow Through the Radiator Too Fast" Idea???

-
harrisonm said:
Duh! You're right. I know better than that. Is it too late for me to delete that so nobody will know I made that bonehead mistake!
:eek::eek::eek:
Click to expand...
Man, don't sweat it. I do that kinda thing all the time.
 
Dezduster said:
Great news I learned something today, bad news I gave someone bad info on the FB couple weeks ago.
Click to expand...
If you believe what you said at the time to be correct, don't sweat it. How do you know what you learn is correct? I think most of what is said, is an opinion, if they truly, believe what they say is correct.
 
I tried this experiment back in about 87/88. Had a 75 fury 318. The heat gauge was always just past 1/2. That bugged me all to hell. It had a 195 t stat. So I changed the t stat to 160. It was good in town. But on the highway the gauge would go way past 3/4s in about 40 miles. It just kept inching up. Next up was a 180 t stat. Good in town, inched up to 3/4 on the gauge. On these two stats the farther I drove it the hotter it got. Put the used 195 back in. No problem at all. This had a 7 blade fixed fan. So now I run the 195 in all my mopars. Even my race car. Your results may very. Kim
 
Yes, the water has to stay in the block long enough to pull out the heat. Not in long enough will cause overheating, Too long and you run hot all the time. Learned that over 50 years ago from my mentor and teacher. My Grandfather. May he rest in peace and in my memory.
 
The fact is you need to read up on cooling an engine before putting in your 2 cents. You may be able to run some old, tired engine with no thermostat, but you will not run any high-performance engine that way. Thats like saying you don't need a fan. If the water doesn't stay in long enough to pull out the heat why would you need to cool it at all. I don't mean any disrespect but, just think about it. Or are you being funny. LOL
 
I guess you don't run a thermostat. My 360 magnum pushes 470 hp. runs on 101 octane fuel if you don't think it needs to be cooled by water and a fan you are sadly mistaken.

20230711_140535.jpg


20230711_140517.jpg
 
mad mike said:
The fact is you need to read up on cooling an engine before putting in your 2 cents. You may be able to run some old, tired engine with no thermostat, but you will not run any high-performance engine that way. Thats like saying you don't need a fan. If the water doesn't stay in long enough to pull out the heat why would you need to cool it at all. I don't mean any disrespect but, just think about it. Or are you being funny. LOL
Click to expand...


Sorry bro, you’re thinking is wrong and I’m not indulging your fantasy about how cooling systems work because your mind is already made up.

If you care to (I don’t care what you do but for your benefit I suggest this) go to the Stewart Components website and read through their tech articles.

Once you’ve done that, head over to the Flowkooler website and read through their tech stuff.

By the end of it you should have ample proof your understanding is bassackwords.
 
Well your right my mind is made up. I know what is working for me. It's ok to have different thoughts on this, if we didn't we wouldn't have these forums. Now lets get off that for a second. I bought an adjustable pinion snubber for my 66 Barracuda. Heres my question should I put a steel plate up to reinforce the body where the snubber will be hitting and should I put the snubber right up against it or down a little.
 
Not often I agree with Turk [ post #87 ], but he is 100% correct & I have also posted the same FACTS earlier in this post.
The water-too-fast myth has been debunked by scientific testing. Howard Stewart, the original founder of Stewart Water pumps, built his own water pump dyno/testing rig & tested all this stuff. He was not the only one. When the load on the engine was increased [ causing more heat build up ] with say, air con, car companies used smaller pump pulleys &/or more efficient pumps to pump water FASTER.
 
Ok that still won't change my mind. Old dog no new tricks. As I said I know what works for me.
 
I had a 22” 3 core rad with a shrouded 2400 Derale 2 speed fan on the 383.
Ran a bit hot at 210 spiking to 217 at times with no radiator support to hood seal.

I went from a 1:1 (6” to 6”) pulley to a 6” crank pulley and 5” water pump pulley but changed to a flow cooler water pump.

Temps dropped to 195-197.

Was it the pump or the pulley I will never know because I didn’t change one component at a time.

In search of even more (cooling) I am changing to a 26” aluminum 2 core with 1” tubes and a twin 12” 3400 cfm spal fans (shrouded).

Science would say that even though I changed both components in the previous setup, they both reflected an increased flow being over driving a superior (opinion) pump.

A 10* reduction in temp is fairly hard to argue with.

The newest change of volume (going to a 26”) will hopefully render another 10*.

I know the experiment was not entirely scientific BUT…. It would seem like the culprit of the lower temp would actually be an increase of flow.

Thermostat (180*) remained the same.

$0.01

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
When someone openly admits they’d rather believe an error rather than learn the truth they go on ignore.

I have no desire to deal with someone like that on any level.
 
Bewy said:
Not often I agree with Turk [ post #87 ], but he is 100% correct & I have also posted the same FACTS earlier in this post.
The water-too-fast myth has been debunked by scientific testing. Howard Stewart, the original founder of Stewart Water pumps, built his own water pump dyno/testing rig & tested all this stuff. He was not the only one. When the load on the engine was increased [ causing more heat build up ] with say, air con, car companies used smaller pump pulleys &/or more efficient pumps to pump water FASTER.
Click to expand...
Here we go again. The faster the heated water goes through the radiator, the water would not be cooled as much, as a slowing flow of water would. So, the water reentering the engine would be hotter going back in, making the thermostat open longer to cool the heated water. The reason for a three core radiator on an AC car. Allowing the heated water to be cooled longer. So, my thinking, slowing down the flow should help, somewhat, but not as good as a larger radiator.
 
Swinger 340 said:
Here we go again. The faster the heated water goes through the radiator, the water would not be cooled as much, as a slowing flow of water would. So, the water reentering the engine would be hotter going back in, making the thermostat open longer to cool the heated water. The reason for a three core radiator on an AC car. Allowing the heated water to be cooled longer. So, my thinking, slowing down the flow should help, somewhat, but not as good as a larger radiator.
Click to expand...

The longer the coolant stays in the block the hotter it gets.

The hotter it gets, the harder it is to drop the temperature.

The less time the coolant stays in the block the less heat it picks up, and the easier it is for ambient temperatures to keep coolant temperatures in check..

It's settled science. Speed up the pump for better cooling. Even Chrysler knew this.
 
While both arguments have logical points (coolant in block vs coolant in rad) it seems like it comes down to how well the radiator can dissipate the heat.

The better it (the rad) does that, the more coolant you can push through it just short of cavitation.

I would like to hear about what guys are running as far as combination. If your combination works, then post it. Include engine, model, general location, general HP and above all…. Pictures.

I’m very interested in you guys in the southern states running big blocks with AC or a small block with a hot cam. I hear that the stock setup rules all but without pictures…. I’m left wondering.
 
Nope, Swinger 340, wrong. The more rows of cores [ 3 core for Air Con car ], the more AREA the coolant is exposed too that will remove heat. The coolant exiting a 3 row rad will be cooler than the coolant exiting a 2 row rad, all lese being equal. Hence the use of bigger rads for AC cars because they generate more heat, & only the rad can shed the heat....
 
Actually it is more related to the surface area of the cores, so a 2 core 1 inch tube, could be more efficient than a 3 core 1/2 tube.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top