EARLY A body hooker header install P/N 5208 UPDATE!

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Less congested "by far", therefore, I would assume, better performance. Once you get over the first slash, it's not so bad.
 
Ok, looks good but do we know what the tallest tire that can be run on the front without the rubbing problem and what is the thicknest of the flanges on those headers?
 
dart4forte said:
Ok, looks good but do we know what the tallest tire that can be run on the front without the rubbing problem and what is the thicknest of the flanges on those headers?
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If any one has them installed max tire size would be helpfull I have rulled out fenderwalls because I want a street car that will handle not a drag car so I want to run larger tire than expect will fit with fenderwalls but real info would be nice please.
 
the guy that has the car in the pix has a pretty small front tire, but he didnt have to change it to fit them.... they fit better then the full fenderwells, because the tubes are in the back of th ewell, away from the tire, for the most part... unfrtunately I only have pix of the car, no tire size...

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Don't know about the Hookers', but with the Hedman I've installed MT Sportsman on the front with no interference. THey're 15X5.5X26" high on a 3" rim.

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I bought some fenderwells from heddman. I called them and they said just take the whole inner fender out. He said that it lets a lot of heat out of the engine bay and it's way easier. why don't you guys just do that?

-64 dart 360
 
mopowermatt said:
I bought some fenderwells from heddman. I called them and they said just take the whole inner fender out. He said that it lets a lot of heat out of the engine bay and it's way easier. why don't you guys just do that?

-64 dart 360
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KEWL idea if you live where it never rains. :wack:

If you remove the complete inner fender, what will your upper control arms attach to?

If you remove the whole inner fender, are you putting a
tubular chassis under the car, to keep the structural integrity?

These are Unibody cars, not Chevelle's; that have bolt on inner fenders.

I wonder if you talked to someone that had just
unbolted the fenders on there GM Abody. Hmmmmm.

;)
 
You will lose a lot of front end strength if you remove all of the inner liner. I removed all of it in my Valiant because it is a race car and I am using the 2" primary Hedmans. I put a 12pt cage in so it would have the strength back. With the inner liners gone & with the car on stands with no drivetrain I could flex the front frame up & down by hand. The shock mount is part of the upper a-arm mount it doesn't actually mount to the inner liner. The inner liner is spotweld to the shock mount.
 
I've got a set of 5208s on my 66... I believe hooker advertised the primaries at 43 inches equal length. The tubes are 1 5/8 with 2 1/2 collectors. I got mine from Summit for $395.00 and then HTC ceramic coated for about $220.00... I had to call HTC twice to get all of my tubes back.
 
I assume you all know but TTI has a set of headers for the small bolck that go in with out any cutting. Be prepared to pull torsion bars and steering assembly. They are clean looking headers.
 
I installed these Hooker Super Comp's on my 66 Valiant, they fit very good. On the driverside the front pipe is close to the steering shaft coupler, wish I would have checked that during mock up cause it rubs a little as you turn. It nneds a small ding for clearance. I run 15x4 rims with 5.60 rubber and have no clearance issues. Plus, the WOW factor is cool, gotta love the "old school" look!! :glasses2:
 
I use to run those hookers for many years,,before ceramic coating arrived they were only aluminum coated,,,
we experimented on a junk car to find the smallest hole needed to cut on the inner fender well ,as dave states the templet hooker gives you is way to big of a hole,,we cut a small hole,,jacked up the car pretty high,,removed the tires and as we put the headers in we twirled the headers as we slid them down,,was a very small hole compared to the templet,,

as for spark plug changing,,there is a spark plug tool you can buy at most parts stores,,back in the day they sold them for changing plugs in VW,s tee handle with a swivel on the end and a socket attached,,,worked great,,
also the car was a 4 speed with a lake wood scatter shield the only clearance problems at that time were the passenger side torsion bar cros member we notched it to match the drivers side...the headers in dvj pics seem to have the passenger side reworked to point a little lower then the cross member..all in all a decent set of headers if you dont mind cutting,,,

i currently have custom headers,,, I Saved the pieces of innewr fender well i cut out ,,saved them for years,,and are now welded back in,,,
 
Ouch!! I hope the HP is worth the trouble. They do look good, and I guess early A options are somewhat limited. I carry stock 273 manifolds on my 65 cuda with the 340, but I'm loosing a good 50 horses without headers. Any suggestions? I'll agree TTI has a good setup, but $450 each is way out of my range.
 
There's also the Doug's headers for the early A, but they're about the same price as the TTI's. Somebody on the forum had a friend who could order them & was giving a pretty good price a few months ago. Don't remember who it was. If the offer is still good they'll probably say something here or a search would probably find them.
 
I ran these for years on a 340 motor in my '65 Barracuda. I cut the wells with anair chisel and a "rooster claw" bit, looked like a spade bit with a tooth in the middle, made a nice cut, get your earplugs out! They worked great but I HAD to run a remote oil filter as the loose filter couldnt be pulled out. Maybe with a dinky one, but a good HP1-A looked nice up on the inner fender and made filter changes a 5 minute job. My problem was the flange was drilled about 1/4 inch too low. I could never keep a header gasket in there for more than about 100 miles as the ports overlapped in one place about 2 mm, enough for a guaranteed burn out. I sent the burned gaskets to Mr. Gasket and they said the things were drilled wrong and would need the receipt to fix, trouble is they were 7 years old at that time. I ran a 205/70R15 and rubbed at full tilt. I wrapped them after I blasted them once to keep rust to a minimum as it was a weekend car at most. 340 logs work great if you can get then to fit, grind a little if you have power steering. Lot less headache than headers and you dont lose any if on a stock motor, you actually gain a few ft/lbs with a log down low.
 
'64 Cuda said:
There's also the Doug's headers for the early A, but they're about the same price as the TTI's. Somebody on the forum had a friend who could order them & was giving a pretty good price a few months ago. Don't remember who it was. If the offer is still good they'll probably say something here or a search would probably find them.
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Got an e-mail asking about the TTI's I have. I have some TTI's for sale but another member is interested to the point we have discussed meeting when I go down to FF. I'll call him to make sure he's still interested. If not then they will still be available. No money has changed hands as of yet.
 
from a while ago. I went to a 451 and sold these headers, now Im going back to a 360 and need them again!
CAR2.jpg
 
Im building a 402 stroker and wonder if the 1 5/8 tubes are going to work for me. the 2.5 collector seems a little puny, but I always overestimate exhaust size. Anyone run a healthy 340/360/40x motor with these and think they are too small?
 
I need help finding headers for a Early-A(66 Dart)with a stroker with Eddy RPM heads.I was trying to stay away from the fenderwell ones,but it looks like I,m gonna need bigger than 1 5/8 primaries(need 1 3/4 or bigger)Does anybody make partial fenderwells?How,s the fit and tire rubbing?Any help would be appreaciated.Thanks
 
i believe TTI now makes a set of step tube headers for the early A,,, if not hooker 5208 are 1 5/8,,should be plenty for a street car,, i used them many years ago,,
 
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