Thanks for sharing!
Those cuts are definitely more surgical than the butchery that is recommended in the Hooker instructions.
EARLY A body hooker header install P/N 5208 UPDATE!
- Thread starter DJVCUDA
- Start date
-
Thanks for sharing!
Those cuts are definitely more surgical than the butchery that is recommended in the Hooker instructions.
What are you guys doing for the oil filter on these? Will the 90 degree adapter clear or is the remote filter the only option like HotLines has on his setup? Thanks
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
i used a remote oil filter deal buit not sure if i had to or not,,, a remote oil filter is an easy hook up
I purchased this car with the headers already installed, I'm sure they are custom's. I've had them on and off numerous time and its a piece of cake. Center tubes come off together and the end ones come off individually..
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
I would like to thank this person for this great ideal and not cutting a big hole in the fender well, it worked out awesome just as it says i took the wheels off and just snaked the headers in there and they fit great.
Last edited by a moderator:
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
Looks great. I'm getting closer to cutting into mine as well. On your driver's side, looks like you have room to spare. Or is that cut just about the right size to snake the header through?
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
That cut is just about the right size, with motor in i may have to cut a little more to get them position right.
winstoninwisc
Taint easy livin free,season ticket ona 1wayride
dam I got my new motor and getting a new tranny I really want a set of headers that fit right in the aqua green 1 looks so nice . dam that's the look I am looking for with the car breathing nice and looking like they were ment to be there . I am going to put up a new post for any 1 with 450 headers new and updated with no cuts and proper fitment for a 2 man job ,to come out looking factory
You'd be my personal hero if once you finalized your cuts and confirmed everything fit, you made us a little pencil trace template of what you did and provided some generic measurement references other 5208 owners could use.
thanks
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
Thought I would share these pics while the headers are still kind of pristine and the engine is out of the car.
*With the mini starter you can see the clearance between the headers. About 1/2".
*And there appears to be a "gotcha" with the 727 trans. The lip of the 727 pan is up against the #2 tube. At least with this pan which is a mopar steel deep pan. I'm going to try and cut away some of that lip to provide clearance.
*With the mini starter you can see the clearance between the headers. About 1/2".
*And there appears to be a "gotcha" with the 727 trans. The lip of the 727 pan is up against the #2 tube. At least with this pan which is a mopar steel deep pan. I'm going to try and cut away some of that lip to provide clearance.
Last edited by a moderator:
winstoninwisc
Taint easy livin free,season ticket ona 1wayride
there are some on ebay right now for like 650 or tti for 9 something I would like to see a sheet with real dyno #s for dougs + install price tti+ hoooker+ pro comp + or just a good old hand made set
winstoninwisc
Taint easy livin free,season ticket ona 1wayride
jh66cuda"s pics do look clean from that shot show a 50 hp gain and I would pay 1k for the pipes and an install incuded lol
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Here are some pics of mine....I cut the hole smaller, but made a cover, most people never even notice a hole is there :glasses7:
Last edited by a moderator:
I love your engine bay. I've saved pics of it before to have as a reference for mine. Yours is very clean. I'm going to follow your lead and use the small alum brake master cylinder as well. You are using the Schumacher mounts it appears. They seem a little taller than the factory 273 mounts. Did you get better K frame clearance with them and the oil pan? I love your air cleaner also. Would love to know more about it. Looks factory. Thanks again for sharing the pics.
TTI is made so you don't have to cut your inner fender wells. My friend said they perform better than the 5208 s. I have used the hookers and headman , I prefer the headman because the header come out easily in one piece.
Mike
Mike
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
subcom said:
Thanks! I was going for a nice clean look so I appreciate your comments:glasses7: Sorry for the late reply, just seen this now.....First, yes, those are the Schumacher mounts, I swapped out a slant six so I never noticed how much higher it sits over the 273 mounts. I have a deep Moroso oil pan that hangs down, fits good but can't drop the engine in the car with the trans attached....oil pan hit the k-frame so they had to be put in separate.
The smaller master cylinder worked great, be sure to get the adapter block to use, it allows a 2-hole new style to bolt up, I even was able to still use the stock master push rod....the heat sheld is another nice item, they get pretty close under that thing.
The air cleaner in those first pictures is a Max Wedge cover on a Mopar Performance base, I painted it wrinkle black, looks cool but took it off after I installed the hood cause it still wouldn't clear so out came the side cutter and a bigger taller filter went on instead.
If you have any more questions about my car, feel free to ask or shoot me a PM :glasses7:
Stabbed the engine/tranny yesterday to finish up the fenderwell cuts.
I started the holes with a 4" hole saw but still have a bit more cutting to do to get the headers to snake thru and fit.
Anybody else finish up these smaller holes and get the headers to fit?
I'm going to try and make them as small as possible but I can tell already it's going to be a frustrating process of putting on and taking iff the headers and slowly cutting away sheet metal. -Mark
I started the holes with a 4" hole saw but still have a bit more cutting to do to get the headers to snake thru and fit.
Anybody else finish up these smaller holes and get the headers to fit?
I'm going to try and make them as small as possible but I can tell already it's going to be a frustrating process of putting on and taking iff the headers and slowly cutting away sheet metal. -Mark
Pics of engine bay
Engine installed
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
cuting and fitting and retrying is much better in the end, if you dont want to do the cut to fit just wack a giant hole and call it finished
The small holes work. Of course my car is an ideal situation for doing this; no fenders, no wheels or suspension or brake MC.
Engine bay
Got everything mostly buttoned up. Small cutouts work, but it's tight.
I assembled both sides of the headers and threaded them thru the fenderwell cutouts BEFORE installing the motor. I put the motor in from the bottom but I think it could be done through the top. I don't think these headers can come out fully without pulling the motor though. Definitely looks better than those giant cuts Hooker recommends.
I assembled both sides of the headers and threaded them thru the fenderwell cutouts BEFORE installing the motor. I put the motor in from the bottom but I think it could be done through the top. I don't think these headers can come out fully without pulling the motor though. Definitely looks better than those giant cuts Hooker recommends.
Last edited by a moderator:
-
