Elec woes, crank, no start after running then parked.

-
So to sum up,
replaced BR with new RU11, no change.
replaced unknown coil with used but fairly new Blue Streak UC12 no change.
replaced LX101 ECU with used Mopar 4120505, no change.
Tap test at dist connector gives spark
jumper wire on ballast connecting each side, no change
test light from coil +ve to gnd, theres power.
The blue connector on back of ALT(squareback) is somewhat "loose". Wire is on snug, bolt is snug? The terminal on the alt itself is somewhat "loose"
 
Thanks, I didn't ohm the pickup, but the reluctor gap was checked last year when I was having exact same issues with 273.
Do u know the ohm spec on the distributor pickup?
MV8 said:
Did you ohm the distributor pickup and check the gap?
Click to expand...
 
Here's a video I took with car running explaining stuff....fast fwd to approx 12 min mark if u don't wanna listen to me. That's when tach goes wonky and car stalls.
 
you have eliminated quite a few things. There is a possibility that the pickup connector is not making contact, or bad pickup. You have ANY other breakerless dist? You don't need to install it, just plug it in and spin it, see if it makes sparks

That tap test is important. It tells you that the ECU harness, connector and power to it is good, and that the ECU is good and it is grounded. Tells you the resistor is good and the coil is good.
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks, I didn't ohm the pickup, but the reluctor gap was checked last year when I was having exact same issues with 273.
Do u know the ohm spec on the distributor pickup?
Click to expand...
300-1500 ohms from what I've read for the Chrysler ignition. If you get it running again and it dies, quickly check the pickup ohms to compare to cold.
 
You cannot really rely on resistance readings with pickups, here is why

There seems to be a lot of manufacturing differences, which means that resistance varies.

If it measures quite low, say, less than 50 ohms, or open, infinity, it has to be bad.

But let's say you check the reading and it seems to be in range. It might have a partially shorted winding, due to moisture, insulation degradation, or vibration, etc. In other words it is possible to measure resistance what you might think is OK and yet not put out enough trigger signal.

Best to substitute, and best to have "some kind" of a second distributor, even if worn and greasy.
 
Thanks guys, here's another video/translator. It didn't die/stall this time, but under slight acceleration there is a huge stumble, I believe it's electrical due to timing light not flashing when stumble occurs. I measured dist pickup and it ohm'd at 385. I pulled dist cap to inspect and it appears scored as if the rotor was hitting it the entire circumference?? I measured the distance from top of rotor to where cap sits on dist (1.38") to verify it wasnt rotor. Not sure what would've been gouging it.
Here's pics and video. Oh Del I don't have another distributor, I'm tempted to just buy a Rock Auto one to at least have a new one for comparison sake.
I'll pull distributor after supper for inspection. Appreciate the help, but this is fuckin ridiculous...:BangHead:



20240722_172227.jpg


20240722_173323.jpg
 
Maybe I missed it, but going back through the posts, it appears that you assume this is an ignition problem because in the time it took to disconnect and reconnect the distributor, it ran again and also the tack getting jumpy when the running also became erratic. Did you check for actual spark or fuel spray or pressure when it died?

The pickup resistance check can narrow the possibilities and it's easy. Again, if it dies, check and compare to cold/385.

Clean the carbon tracking out of the cap and use a small flat blade screw driver, knife, or file to clean the terminals inside the cap. Are those carbon core plug wires?
 
@MV8 , the time it stalled and I unplugged/plugged distributor lead there was probably 10 minutes maybe??
Not sure what plug wires are, they're a "quality" brand but can't remember and fairly new. I don't see much carbon tracking in the cap? Appears to be in good shape, but ordering new cap and rotor tomorrow.

Pulled distributor, checked for shaft play Del @67Dart273 minimal play, used mitivac to check vac advance and set reluctor gap at .08.

Ohmd out the dist leads(see video).
I'll chk to see if I have another reluctor and pickup. This dist was gone thru not many miles ago by a member on here.....
Rockauto has a Cardone distributor for $120 Canuck bucks.
Thanks for patience guys, mines on empty...

MV8 said:
Maybe I missed it, but going back through the posts, it appears that you assume this is an ignition problem because in the time it took to disconnect and reconnect the distributor, it ran again and also the tack getting jumpy when the running also became erratic. Did you check for actual spark or fuel spray or pressure when it died?

The pickup resistance check can narrow the possibilities and it's easy. Again, if it dies, check and compare to cold/385.

Clean the carbon tracking out of the cap and use a small flat blade screw driver, knife, or file to clean the terminals inside the cap. Are those carbon core plug wires?
Click to expand...

67Dart273 said:
Wiggle the dist. shaft. Maybe the thing is worn out.
Click to expand...
 
I bought a single point distributor to get all my electrical issues (voltage drops, bad connections, new ign switch, over charging, cranked no start) etc shaken out. Dist is new not rebuilt single point with cap and rotor was $109 out the door from local Carquest Auto Parts. Called in morning they had it 3:00 that day. I was advised by others on this forum drop in a single point shake it out then go back to electronic.
 
Thanks, how much work was it to switch back to points? I actually have a 69 340 DP, probably need points tho.
340sFastback said:
I bought a single point distributor to get all my electrical issues (voltage drops, bad connections, new ign switch, over charging, cranked no start) etc shaken out. Dist is new not rebuilt single point with cap and rotor was $109 out the door from local Carquest Auto Parts. Called in morning they had it 3:00 that day. I was advised by others on this forum drop in a single point shake it out then go back to electronic.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks, how much work was it to switch back to points? I actually have a 69 340 DP, probably need points tho.
Click to expand...
You just unhook and remove electronic ignition distributor, drop points distributor in, hook black wire from distributor to ground side of coil, done. I had to open the point gap on mine to get it to run good. I also welded up advance slots to limit total timing. But out driving around engine makes a lot of power can't really tell a single point is in there. Now that I have electrical glitches all shaken out can go back to electronic.
Here is one I bought:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...1547|L2*81732|L3*-49999851&selectedStore=2623
 
Thanks, I thought ecu etc would need to come out? Round or square back alt?
340sFastback said:
You just unhook and remove electronic ignition distributor, drop points distributor in, hook black wire from distributor to ground side of coil, done. I had to open the point gap on mine to get it to run good. I also welded up advance slots to limit total timing. But out driving around engine makes a lot of power can't really tell a single point is in there. Now that I have electrical glitches all shaken out can go back to electronic.
Here is one I bought:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-distributor-t3820-100-new-with-cap-and-rotor-t3820/10435802-P?navigationPath=L1*81547|L2*81732|L3*-49999851&selectedStore=2623
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks, I thought ecu etc would need to come out? Round or square back alt?
Click to expand...
Just make sure when you unplug ECU electrical tape up connector so it wont ground and unhook from negative side of coil. So you don't have to rip it all out....
 
Yes, I did that last year with the oem in dash tach. Both underhood and in dash tach jump.
Update for today, went to replace pickup and reluctor got them both installed then realized the LX102 SMP pickup sits up over 1/4" higher and the rotor when spinning would actually hit it :BangHead: So peeled this doe eyed slut apart again, reinstalled orig pickup, new reluctor. Set gap 0.008.
New cap(brass contacts) and rotor.
Timing to 18 btdc. Ran for approx 20 minutes, tach wonky, then stalled again.
Pickup leads 350 ohms. Tap test with engine side of dist leads, nfg....could hear a slight "noise" from battery every time I tapped. Measured batt.voltage, with everything left "as is" when stalled(key on).
11.95V
Voltage at coil +ve 6.74, coil-ve 1.18.:realcrazy:
 
If "nfg" mean the tap test didn't work, pour water on the module next time it stalls and see if it comes back quicker. If it did work, next time see if the pickup is shorting when hot enough to the distributor body.

Loaded stumble (in gear, stall the converter) is typically weak ignition to the plugs but I thought it was only part throttle that this happens. Ohm the plug wires also.
 
I just found an issue with my buddy's distributor cap. The thing wouldn't start and before the no start situation it was running like crap backfiring and running rich. Long story short I found that the connection from the button that the rotor contacts to the coil connector on top of the distributor was bad. Check it with a ohm meter. I used I screwdriver to test. When I dug the screwdriver into the edge of the button it would make connection to the Post on top of the distributor. Just something you might want to check.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top