I am a hack! I still drill holes thru firewall connector and run the big wires thru....you know......
Did you ohm the distributor pickup and check the gap?
300-1500 ohms from what I've read for the Chrysler ignition. If you get it running again and it dies, quickly check the pickup ohms to compare to cold.Thanks, I didn't ohm the pickup, but the reluctor gap was checked last year when I was having exact same issues with 273.
Do u know the ohm spec on the distributor pickup?
Maybe I missed it, but going back through the posts, it appears that you assume this is an ignition problem because in the time it took to disconnect and reconnect the distributor, it ran again and also the tack getting jumpy when the running also became erratic. Did you check for actual spark or fuel spray or pressure when it died?
The pickup resistance check can narrow the possibilities and it's easy. Again, if it dies, check and compare to cold/385.
Clean the carbon tracking out of the cap and use a small flat blade screw driver, knife, or file to clean the terminals inside the cap. Are those carbon core plug wires?
Wiggle the dist. shaft. Maybe the thing is worn out.
I bought a single point distributor to get all my electrical issues (voltage drops, bad connections, new ign switch, over charging, cranked no start) etc shaken out. Dist is new not rebuilt single point with cap and rotor was $109 out the door from local Carquest Auto Parts. Called in morning they had it 3:00 that day. I was advised by others on this forum drop in a single point shake it out then go back to electronic.
You just unhook and remove electronic ignition distributor, drop points distributor in, hook black wire from distributor to ground side of coil, done. I had to open the point gap on mine to get it to run good. I also welded up advance slots to limit total timing. But out driving around engine makes a lot of power can't really tell a single point is in there. Now that I have electrical glitches all shaken out can go back to electronic.Thanks, how much work was it to switch back to points? I actually have a 69 340 DP, probably need points tho.
You just unhook and remove electronic ignition distributor, drop points distributor in, hook black wire from distributor to ground side of coil, done. I had to open the point gap on mine to get it to run good. I also welded up advance slots to limit total timing. But out driving around engine makes a lot of power can't really tell a single point is in there. Now that I have electrical glitches all shaken out can go back to electronic.
Here is one I bought:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-distributor-t3820-100-new-with-cap-and-rotor-t3820/10435802-P?navigationPath=L1*81547|L2*81732|L3*-49999851&selectedStore=2623
I am running a round back alternator with two field spade connectors on it so had to ground one. I can't run square back wont clear Edelbrock heads.Thanks, I thought ecu etc would need to come out? Round or square back alt?
Just make sure when you unplug ECU electrical tape up connector so it wont ground and unhook from negative side of coil. So you don't have to rip it all out....Thanks, I thought ecu etc would need to come out? Round or square back alt?