Elec woes, crank, no start after running then parked.

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Got a few minutes to mess with it before work. Had to put charger on battery to start it...hmmmm 11.9V.
I unhooked oem grey tach wire from coil -ve. Started right up with charger, charger unhooked now and running.
Here's a video.
 
OK, so while running
BATT 13.5V
Coil +ve 8.85V
Coil -ve 3.18V
Ballast, BRN/BLUE (ign 2) 8.97V
Ballast, BLUE w tracer/BLUE (ign 1) 13.39V
Then once stalled, key left in run.
Coil+ve 6.7V
Coil-ve 1.18V so obviously previous post above I messed up and got Coil + and - readings mixed up.
Notice in the video the test light is brighter when on Coil-ve?? Wtf, voltage is lower on that side??
Also no "pulsing" on Coil-ve when trying to start.
That's all I had time for before work.

20240727_204418.jpg
 
The coil NEG is a pulse and has what is called "inductive kick" because of the coil primary. Those that have "real" ECU boxes with an original type transistor, --you can get the heck shocked out of you by either touching the transistor or eat sink, or the coil NEG terminal.
 
Yeah I got a "lifter" earlier Del, lol. I forgot to mention after stalling, the tap test gave me a spark. Did u watch the video? Weird why coil +ve was giving a dull light with test light, but -ve was bright? Measuring them was 6.7 coil + and JUST above 1 on negative....
No flicker on coil -ve while cranking leads me to believe possibly bad pickup?
**edit** oem grey tach wire was unhooked in post #77, with same results/symptoms so we ruled that out.
The coil NEG is a pulse and has what is called "inductive kick" because of the coil primary. Those that have "real" ECU boxes with an original type transistor, --you can get the heck shocked out of you by either touching the transistor or eat sink, or the coil NEG terminal.
 
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Shouldn't your alternator be a single field wire style for 67? Did you change the wiring? Had a buddy with a similar situation
 
Are you sure it's not fuel getting too hot? I've only had 2 problems with heat soak, fuel and starter, and your starter works.
 
I had a conversion Mopar electronic do similar stuff. Started good cold. Drove it out to get gas and would not restart. After getting the car towed back home I found that the gap, which I didn't check for myself before installing the new to me distrbutor, was set too wide between the reluctor and the pick up coil. Set the gap to 0.008" and everything's been fine since.
 
Thanks, I haven't checked the carb when it starts to stumble as after the stall there is no spark. I do have an Eddy spacer between 1405 and intake. I will watch carb on next stall.
Are you sure it's not fuel getting too hot? I've only had 2 problems with heat soak, fuel and starter, and your starter works.
Thanks, I've triple chkd gap and it's. 008.
I had a conversion Mopar electronic do similar stuff. Started good cold. Drove it out to get gas and would not restart. After getting the car towed back home I found that the gap, which I didn't check for myself before installing the new to me distrbutor, was set too wide between the reluctor and the pick up coil. Set the gap to 0.008" and everything's been fine since.
Thanks Dave, I think I have that same book lol.
From the MP bible Steve............
View attachment 1716282135
Thanks guys, I'm starting to lean towards a dist pickup issue. The reason I say this is once it stalled, it passed the dist lead tap test. BUT when putting test light on coil -ve there was no flicker/pulse.
 
Once again, to eliminate pickup, run the "tap test." If you don't get a healthy spark, it likely is not the pickup
 
Thanks Del, I thought that if tap test was good, that it led to the issue(s) possibly being dist related? I didn't measure the spark, just did tap test.
Once again, to eliminate pickup, run the "tap test." If you don't get a healthy spark, it likely is not the pickup
 
A little bit of time before work today, same results(insanity lol).
I won't bother posting test readings, other than after running 15 minutes it stalled. I immediately put test light to coil -ve and cranked. NO PULSE/FLICKER. So bad pickup/leads on dist side??
I can post readings if needed.
 
If the coil V readings are normal run the tap test. If NG the pickup is likely not the problem
 
@67Dart273 , Del I'm going thru our notes from the other night making a cheat sheet.
Which wire was it in the ecu boot that u said to hook direct to batt +ve to hot wire it? Here's hand drawn schematic of my setup.

20240728_210932.jpg
 
Blue don't overthink. The box is grounded and there are 4 wires. 2X are the pickup, the black is coil NEG and the one left over is power

From what I remember, and what you and I suspect it seems to me

If you can get it to quit........

1...Immediately measure coil neg which should be low, couple of volts and lower the better

2...And measure coil + which should be 6-8 but lower than 12

In other words the coil neg might be low, ok, but if the coil does not have power on the + side, of course it will be low. You are trying to determine if the coil has power AND is drawing current.

If the coil + is high, and the coil neg is also high, then the coil is not drawing power. This indicates box problems or box wiring/ no power

3...Run the "tap test" and see if you have a good spark at the coil secondary spark tester

4...If not, probe the rear of the ECU power lead and see if it has power. But remember, if the coil voltages are OK, that implies that the box is at least partly OK or the coil would not be drawing current.

If the box has power, the coil voltages indicate the coil is drawing power, but the tap test gives you no spark, it almost has to be either the ignition system harness or a bad box.

If it passes the tap test, this implies a bad pickup. However, there are rare cases where the thing will pass the tap test, but the trigger circuit in the box is AFU and won't trigger from the pickup.

So at that point, change the box.
 
You also might want to paw around your town and see ifyou can drum up an alternate brand pickup, NAPA, etc. Standard USED to be great stuff, but it's all china, anymore
 
So thru some stash digging I found a parts distributor with some used pickups coils, 3 in total of which only 1 was usable lol. 1 wire had a slice right at pickup, the other the pickup was installed backwards(see videos).so the 3rd used one seems to have solved the issue(s)?? That reminds me of the 4th pickup(LX102) brand new that was physically "too big" to work, rotor would hit it...:BangHead:
So in "theory" that is 4 "bad" pickups lol.
Great member Todd @S'cuder has sent me a Mopar "First Aid kit" to help cure my electrical psychosis lol and a few other "maladies" lol. While waiting for it to arrive, when I found the parts dizzy and used pickups, I installed the only used one that appeared to be feasible.
There were no symptoms once I finally got this pos distributor installed with used pickup. A minor hiccup stopping for fuel, after fueling, no crank, no start...dammit. Unhooked and rehooked dist leads and fired right up. The better part of an hour round trip drive without any other issues.
Engine feels strong and I can definitely feel the difference between the 2 engines.
So far so good, thanks all and I will update this thread as required.
Much appreciated!
Not sure why video stopped, so this edition is a 2 parter

 
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1st pic is LX102(right)compared to used OEM(left).
2nd pic....notice sumting wong? I'll let u ponder....

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20240731_120850.jpg


20240731_130959.jpg
 
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One thing concerning is I compared Autometer temp gauge to my heat gun.
My Autometer reads 190* and my heat gun is 230*!! Drastic difference. Any reason to be concerned if it actually is 235*?? 18* initial.
 
There were a couple of postings a while ago about the validity of the IR readings due to heat soaking in the engine compartment. What leads you to believe that the Autometer temp gauge isn't working? Is your factory gauge still reading Ok?
 
The gauge is checking flowing coolant temp. Maybe comparison check at the radiator input rather than pump housing or block?
What's the thermostat rating?
 
AM gauge in car steady at 190* . New sender, so I wanted to verify, so i used Can Tire IR gauge. It gave me 235* at temp sender.
There were a couple of postings a while ago about the validity of the IR readings due to heat soaking in the engine compartment. What leads you to believe that the Autometer temp gauge isn't working? Is your factory gauge still reading Ok?

The gauge is checking flowing coolant temp. Maybe comparison check at the radiator input rather than pump housing or block?
What's the thermostat rating?
 
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