That's good, because I see stuff like this about Skip White's quality
cheap HEI distributors - racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.org
cheap HEI distributors - racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.org
That's good, because I see stuff like this about Skip White's quality
cheap HEI distributors - racingfuelsystems.myfunforum.org
I did that conversion on my 65 cuda years ago and on my Powerwagon and never looked back.Mopar Licensed Electronic Distributor Conversion Kit...
Do they still make this for a 225? That's what he said he has. Good call tho that will run for years with no
problem.
Parts store 73 electronic distributor
Favorite ECU
Mopar Performance harness.
Bolt on and go.
440 dizzy will not work in a 383 as a 440 is a rb block. A 400 dizzy will fit a 383. MikeI have a buddy with a 383 in a '63 Dodge 440 and he'd like to add electronic ignition. What "parts store" distributor would he shop for? I took a quick look at RockAuto and did not see a 383 listed. Would a distributor for a 440 work for him? I'm OK with the ECU & wiring. What do you think/advise?
and the advance will almost always be less ideal because a parts store distributor will have some random or generic curve. Depending on whats there now it could be a step backward. Electronic is only better if the timing is correct for the motor.
'cause a guy that doesn't know what I wrote, won't know they need to do what you wrote.??SO?? RECURVE IT. Crackedback and others have posted a chart that "someone made" showing approximate slot lengths / degrees advance
FBO makes a kit which several on here have bought with an "advance limiter plate" which makes DIY "no special tools" recurves easy.
Many current AFTERMARKET distributors are less than ideal advance curves, in fact a couple of people market shorter curve limiter bushings for MSD BECAUSE MSD DOES NOT PHECKING OFF THEM THEMSELVES
I have to disagree with RustyRatRod : a good electronic ignition system is a large improvement over points! A points-condenser ignition system does an inferior job of lighting every cylinder/every time, and begins deteriorating the instant you hit the starter after putting in a new set of points. That is why the auto industry began working to abandon points as soon as there were better options available. Transistorized aftermarket systems began appearing in the early-mid '60s, and Chrysler offered their first such system as an option to fleet buyers in '66…over half a century ago. So "Aw, hell, points have been around for a century!" is true, but…well, go read and watch this.
DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org is the man to see about custom-recurve work on Slant-6 distributors.
If you cant find a 400 dizzy, though i dont know why you wouldent be able to, mopar made a kit that allowed the use of an RB 440 426 dizzy fit the B 383 400 block. It consisted of a spacer, and a longer clamp with bolt, but if you can find a B engine dizzy your better off. Mancini racing has remade that out of production adaptor kit.440 dizzy will not work in a 383 as a 440 is a rb block. A 400 dizzy will fit a 383. Mike
'cause a guy that doesn't know what I wrote, won't know they need to do what you wrote.
I'll disagree with both of you. Electronic's original advantage was reduced maint, most important with fleet buyers. Dual points advantage is about being effective over a wider rpm range. Meeting emmissions was a big driver in the adoption of various electronic systems in the 70s. They remain more consistant over time and can be designed to help light off a good burn under more difficult conditions, such as added exhaust dilution.Very true on the points systems. Also the only reason for dual points was to make up for the weak spark of a single pount setup. This was a stopgap crutch before high energy electronic setups. GM did it right with their design of HEI by ditching the ballast when they went electronic as it was no longer needed to prevent point arcing IMHO. Even fords duraspark electronic remained hobbled by a ballast.
Don's disk is clever and well done. It could even be better, but Don only only has his own way. Anyway, that alone won't get anyone the factory curve. It can be useful when setting up a hot rod.That's why you buy the FBO kit, and use the internet.
They work but then the oiling has to splash up higher.If you cant find a 400 dizzy, though i dont know why you wouldent be able to, mopar made a kit that allowed the use of an RB 440 426 dizzy fit the B 383 400 block. It consisted of a spacer, and a longer clamp with bolt, but if you can find a B engine dizzy your better off. Mancini racing has remade that out of production adaptor kit.
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See post #29 - there was a hijack mid-thread!Dudes....What the heck ?
Dons kit, Dons disk, FBO advance limiter plate, FBO plates.....They are for a V8 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The original poster has a Slant Six !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are you shoving V8 info down his throat, when he has a 6 cylinder ?
I did always HATE setting points/ timing on slants. They were always "dark and oily" down there LOL
Oh, geeze, man, give yourself a break! It's masochistic to do the points in a Slant-6 without pulling the distributor.
Cotton balls, tweezers, and a magnet on a stick. Stick the cotton balls in where the screws are likely to fall in if dropped, a magnet to fish em out, and a pair of tweezers to pull out the cotton balls when done. Thats how i used to do that job on my old 66 coronet w a slant 6Yeah, not much fun. I was always afraid I'd drop the screw for either the points or the condenser inside the dist. Fortunately, never did.
Not parts store, but there is a Ningbo electronic distributor for a 383 on ebay ~$60 (Skip White and others). Add an e-core coil for $20 for hotter spark. Many here use them fine, though some posts by mostly Chevy guys who nix them. Lube the shaft before installing. Eventually, oil splash will maintain lube.... 383 ... electronic ignition ... distributor would he shop for?
I'll throw my 2 cents in. You're not gonna add power to that slant (or really anything) as long as the point type ignition is in GOOD SHAPE.
So, why not learn the points system, discover how it works, learn to tune it. Get it in good condition. Points have been around for a hundred years in millions of vehicles.
In all honesty, electronic ignitions ain't "much" of an upgrade from a good workin points ignition.
That way, you actually learn somethin, fix "WHAT'S THERE" and spend less money.
I don't know.......sounds pretty good to me.