FiTech EFI system

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I was able to get the water sensor installed using the 1/4 npt to 3/8 npt adapter..had to run a 21/32 drill thru the adapter to allow the sensor to go into the adapter...

now need to mount the fuel command center somewhere on the passenger side...........

Does anyone have a picture of fuel command center in an A body on the passenger side?
 
RBConvert said:
Ken, thanks for the detailed write up and pics. I've got a FAST EZ EFI and Aeromotive Phantom Stealth fuel pump still in the box that I'll be returning.
I have a question about the wiring: all the EFI mfgs require hot electrical source in both On/Run and Crank positions. When I talked to the FAST tech last month he said just that split second in between is enough to disrupt the ECU. Yesterday when I asked the FiTech tech the same question he said it wasn't going to be an issue. Did you modify your wiring at the ignition switch? If not, do you notice anything happening to the system during starting?
Click to expand...

I think the stock ignition switch will work OK - I was worried about the same issue when I did my GM TPI conversion on my Valiant, and the switch generally operates as make-before-break... that is the ignition circuit is made before the power is fully pulled over to the starting circuit. Starting has not been a problem for me using the original 1969 key switch.

Clair
 
RBConvert said:
Ken, thanks for the detailed write up and pics. I've got a FAST EZ EFI and Aeromotive Phantom Stealth fuel pump still in the box that I'll be returning.
I have a question about the wiring: all the EFI mfgs require hot electrical source in both On/Run and Crank positions. When I talked to the FAST tech last month he said just that split second in between is enough to disrupt the ECU. Yesterday when I asked the FiTech tech the same question he said it wasn't going to be an issue. Did you modify your wiring at the ignition switch? If not, do you notice anything happening to the system during starting?
Click to expand...

I may not be a fair comparison as i have a Ron Francis wiring kit. I have an ignition switch and then a keyless start button. I used my switched 12 volt electrical choke line to provide the ignition on power. I have not had any issues with the power supply so far.
The Always on line which retains the Fitech ECU memory, I jumpered in to a line that provides constant 12 volt to my radio memory line. My battery is in the trunk and I have a switch that can turn all the power off, ( except that radio memory line)
 
RBConvert said:
Ken, thanks for the detailed write up and pics. I've got a FAST EZ EFI and Aeromotive Phantom Stealth fuel pump still in the box that I'll be returning.
I have a question about the wiring: all the EFI mfgs require hot electrical source in both On/Run and Crank positions. When I talked to the FAST tech last month he said just that split second in between is enough to disrupt the ECU. Yesterday when I asked the FiTech tech the same question he said it wasn't going to be an issue. Did you modify your wiring at the ignition switch? If not, do you notice anything happening to the system during starting?
Click to expand...
Ignition ON power from the ignition switch is typically hot during Ignition Run and Ignition Crank positions. Only Ignition Accessory is interrupted in the Crank position. ECUs of all types require a constant voltage input for keep alive memory and a Ignition On input during operation.
 
Even if there is a very brief power glitch from the key, many electronic devices have capacitors on their power bus that will maintain power for bit. At work, we use a PLC w/ Intel Atom CPU (11 W) and it stays on for ~4 sec after you cut the 24 VDC power.

Question is when the FiTech support guy said, "won't be an issue", was he speaking from a detailed knowledge of the circuit, hearsay such as "no customers complained", or just totally winging it (i.e. "won't be my problem").
 
Wow! A hearty thank you to all of you that replied.
Bill - good question, I had the same feeling the other day as I hung up the phone.

So I just got off the phone with Bryce, their tech, same gentleman I talked to the other day. Full disclosure - I am not by any means an automotive electronic tech so bear with me if I seem to gloss over anything.
The ECU gets its power and self learning maintenance wired to the positive terminal of the battery. 30 secs after key-off the ECU shuts down, so after that time you can activate a kill switch, remove the battery, etc. and the ECU won't be affected.
I was assured that the switched 12V from the ignition switch works for the FiTech system. Alternatively I can splice into the power wire going to my Pertronix dizzy. The explanation jives with the responses above.
So I ordered the TBI and FCC; there's currently a 3 week b/o on the FCC.
 
wireweld said:
I got the 1200 hp unit because I am running e85 on a 416 sb, that Mike at MRL built. It dynoed at 650 but the system was an accel and the engine never did right run with the Accel.
My fuel system was already capable of supporting it.
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So running the E85 did you have to increase your engines CID by 25% to 30% in the initial setup process? Example if you've got a 416 sb did you have to program the initial setup as a 520 CID or a 541 CID to trick the Throttle body to supply the right amount of E85 fuel?
 
now need to mount the fuel command center somewhere on the passenger side...........

Does anyone have a picture of fuel command center in an A body on the passenger side?
[/QUOTE]

Mine...
 

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Man that looks like it would be vulnerable in an accident, even a light hit. Also you may be heating the fuel up a lot more than you'd like there.
 
Man that looks like it would be vulnerable in an accident, even a light hit. Also you may be heating the fuel up a lot more than you'd like there.


Everywhere is vulnerable in an accident... It would take a pretty good hit to get to the command center, and at that point I'm going to be more worried about the squishy parts inside the car. The thing seems really well built also.
There is no heat where it is at (relatively speaking), the radiator tanks are on the top and bottom and there is airflow around it through the core support.
Best solution would be an in tank pump but I wanted to use all FiTech parts because they designed them to work together.
 
Rustedwrench said:
Ignition ON power from the ignition switch is typically hot during Ignition Run and Ignition Crank positions. Only Ignition Accessory is interrupted in the Crank position. ECUs of all types require a constant voltage input for keep alive memory and a Ignition On input during operation.
Click to expand...

NO NOT correct. This is a well known issue on Mopars. The "run" line (IGN 1) typically dark blue / white, goes DEAD during crank

The ONLY ignition source that is hot during cranking is the ignition bypass (IGN-2) typically brown.

This is typically an issue, and I mean a "typical issue" when guys install alternative ignitions, such as HEI, MSD, or others You must jumper those two together in such a way that voltage is present during start.
 
You can get an in tank pump from tanks.com for $295.00 plus $45 for their recessed tray to mount the pump in your factory tank. The pump is a PA-6. Capable of 100 psi.
 
jimjimjimmy said:
Could you explain how to do this . and thanks for the great advice .
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The usual way with stuff like MSD ignition is to simply connect the brown IGN 2 (resistor bypass) and IGN 1 "ignition run" usually dark blue where the ballast "used to be"

There's been discussion that some of the hemi swaps get more complicated, as it's alleged there is a "gap" sometimes when the key is released from "crank" to "run." I've never seen an absolute sure--fire. On my Holley system, that method worked OK I no longer run a resistor, just a simple 4 pin HEI module
 
67Dart273 said:
NO NOT correct. This is a well known issue on Mopars. The "run" line (IGN 1) typically dark blue / white, goes DEAD during crank

The ONLY ignition source that is hot during cranking is the ignition bypass (IGN-2) typically brown.

This is typically an issue, and I mean a "typical issue" when guys install alternative ignitions, such as HEI, MSD, or others You must jumper those two together in such a way that voltage is present during start.
Click to expand...

Really? Well I must not have checked that on a Mopar with a ballast resistor then. That is the dumbest thing I ever heard. Thanks for the correction.
 
Rustedwrench said:
Really? ..........That is the dumbest thing I ever heard. Thanks for the correction.
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LOL. Well you have to realize, that in (whenever it was, 1957? 62? 65?) Don't know when "ma" started doing this, "she" wasn't worried about the car being used 50, 60 years later, and certainly not various mods including CDI or EFI

"What that does" is drops all unnecessary loads out while starting the car. You'll notice that the radio and heater goes dead when cranking. Likewise, dropping IGN1 off means that the VR and on newer cars "other things" powered by IGN1 are not loading down the battery on that cold winter night.

Only thing operating is the coil and the starter, "pretty much"

Now that circuit causes the ballast to backfeed from the bypass circuit "back into" everything else during crank, but that current is limited by what the coil resistor can flow, couple of amps, whatever that might be.
 
clair.davis said:
I think the stock ignition switch will work OK - I was worried about the same issue when I did my GM TPI conversion on my Valiant, and the switch generally operates as make-before-break... that is the ignition circuit is made before the power is fully pulled over to the starting circuit. Starting has not been a problem for me using the original 1969 key switch.

Clair
Click to expand...


Circling back on my previous advice while this is being discussed, I have to say that I'm pretty sure my ballast resistor is gone, but I managed all my wiring & install chores back before my #1 Son was born... in 2005. I need to see if I can verify what I remember with what's actually on the car...

Clair
 
67Dart273 said:
LOL. Well you have to realize, that in (whenever it was, 1957? 62? 65?) Don't know when "ma" started doing this, "she" wasn't worried about the car being used 50, 60 years later, and certainly not various mods including CDI or EFI

"What that does" is drops all unnecessary loads out while starting the car. You'll notice that the radio and heater goes dead when cranking. Likewise, dropping IGN1 off means that the VR and on newer cars "other things" powered by IGN1 are not loading down the battery on that cold winter night.

Only thing operating is the coil and the starter, "pretty much"

Now that circuit causes the ballast to backfeed from the bypass circuit "back into" everything else during crank, but that current is limited by what the coil resistor can flow, couple of amps, whatever that might be.
Click to expand...

Exactly, it bypasses the ballast resistor while cranking providing full battery voltage to the ignition system rather than just the 6 to 8 volts it runs on when the ignition is simply on. It makes for much easier hot and cold starting.
 
FJ5 said:
You can get an in tank pump from tanks.com for $295.00 plus $45 for their recessed tray to mount the pump in your factory tank. The pump is a PA-6. Capable of 100 psi.
Click to expand...

The only downside to this is that you will have very high pressure fuel running the entire length of the car in various home-brewed, fuel line configurations.

Using a surge tank set-up with return line still requires a fuel lines from front to rear, however that fuel pressure is typically from just above 0 psi to 1-2 psi depending on line size, configuration etc.

The high pressure lines to and from the surge tank to the fuel rails are much shorter when the tank is mounted up front.

I use metal lines, fuel injection hose and double EFI screw clamps on the low pressure side; and Earl's lines and fittings on the high pressure side.
 

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I called FiTech today and was told the fuel command center is back ordered and will probably be several more weeks till they get a shipment in and test each one. I did go ahead and order the FI unit which was in stock and will be shipped today. I'm supposed to be first in line on the fuel command center as I've had the order in for nearly 3 weeks now.
 
Has anyone got to the track with is setup. I would like to know more about how it performs in a real-world situations. I know everybody wants to know how they install and all that jazz but I want to know more about the performance end of it. :burnout:
 
Im going to try and order the Power Adder 600 today. I want to pressurize my setup eventually with a single tubo but will start laying the ground work with this. I plan on E85 as well and it looks like this setup could work as a "flex fuel" option by manually changing some params on the control unit.
 
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