Fitech Wiring Issues

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AirForceRacer

AirForceRacer

Mopar or No Car
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I have the PA1200 Forced induction system on my Duster. I've had issues where it wont start only turn over and a zero valve on the Fitech display for RPMs when the motor it cranking. I think it may be the white wire on the Fitech not hooked up to a good enough switched 12V circuit under the dash.

Has anyone else had this problem and if so what wire did you connect to under the dash? The white wire was connected to the blue wire with white stripe under the dash.

Thanks
 
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I installed both a positive and negative hub.
Negative ground hub next to battery, positive hub under dash.

Connected both the ignition start and run wires, as well as the FiTech white wire to the positive hub.
 
matthon said:
I installed both a positive and negative hub.
Negative ground hub next to battery, positive hub under dash.

Connected both the ignition start and run wires, as well as the FiTech white wire to the positive hub.
Click to expand...
Would you happen to have a picture of your set up? I'm more of a visual person.
 
How exactly did you connect it for switched power and what exactly are you running for an ignition system, AND.....

DO you understand the interaction of the IGN1 "run" and the IGN2 "bypass" ignition circuits?

I am thinking this may be the "key" pun intended.

There are TWO ignition power circuits which originate at the ignition switch, "run" IGN1 and "bypass", IGN2

The "run" wire GOES DEAD during cranking, and in an OEM setup, the IGN2 is hot during start. This IS however, a different circuit (different switch contacts) than the yellow "start" circuit

The bypass/ IGN2 provides power (originally) to the coil + side of the ballast.
 
67Dart273 said:
How exactly did you connect it for switched power and what exactly are you running for an ignition system, AND.....

DO you understand the interaction of the IGN1 "run" and the IGN2 "bypass" ignition circuits?

I am thinking this may be the "key" pun intended.

There are TWO ignition power circuits which originate at the ignition switch, "run" IGN1 and "bypass", IGN2

The "run" wire GOES DEAD during cranking, and in an OEM setup, the IGN2 is hot during start. This IS however, a different circuit (different switch contacts) than the yellow "start" circuit

The bypass/ IGN2 provides power (originally) to the coil + side of the ballast.
Click to expand...

The white wire for the Fitech is connected to a blue with white stripe wire coming from the column. From further research from a friend with a service manual this wire was for the voltage regulator which is no longer being used with his set up.

I think i understand what you are talking about. Im in the process of trying getting a better battery for the car and then im going to jump the white wire back to the the battery and see if itll fire off.
 
..........Ok, but you did not answer my question fully. WHAT exactly are you running for an ignition system?

Here's the deal. ALL switched voltage comes from the ignition switch, of course. No mystery The outputs from the ignition switch are:
1...ACCESSORY, hot either with key in "accessory" or "run" this feeds to the "ACC" buss in the fuse panel
2...IGN1... "ignition run", dark blue--this is HOT ONLY IN RUN!! It is NOT powered in "start"!!! This feed things like oil light, cluster gauges power, and THROUGH THE bulkhead for underhood loads, depending on year, the VR, the alternator field, some smog doo-dads, electric choke if used, AND THE COIL BALLAST
3...IGN2..."bypass" normally brown. This only goes one place--to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. THIS IS THE ONLY source of power to the ignition system during "crank" It is hot in "start" but it is a DIFFERENT switch contact, so the two circuits are isolated
4..."start"...The yellow start wire....hot only in start, it only goes one place (except 74, seat belt interlock)...goes through the bulkhead connector to the start relay

So, HERE IS THE deal. If you still have the ballast hooked up as OEM, then during start, "battery" goes to the COIL side of the ballast, FEEDS BACKWARDS to the "ignition switch" side, and feeds back to whatever is connected to the dark blue IGN1 line

THIS MEANS that if you have it wired thus, there is VERY LITTLE voltage going to the EFI during "crank." FURTHER.........

If you have an ignition system that does NOT have a ballast, and if you do NOT have the OEM ballast connections connected together, then there is NO voltage to ANY of the ignition / EFI stuff during crank, and the only reason it fires and runs is that you "accidently" released the key partly or fully back to "run" and it re--connected the "run" line to power.

The other possibility is that you have a bad connection in a connector or the ignition switch........the switch connector, or the bulkhead connector.

I would "get on" the splice where you have the EFI connected, and clip a lamp or meter to that point so you can monitor it a few times while cycling from start to run with the key
 
Are you using the VR coil setting or tach? If you're using a MSD style magnetic pickup distributor it will use the VR coil setting. If you're using a wire connected to the negative side of the coil (don't remember the color, I'd have to look at my documentation) then you want to use the tach setting in the initial setup menu. I have the 600 ZHP power adder on my 418 stroker.
 
67Dart273 said:
..........Ok, but you did not answer my question fully. WHAT exactly are you running for an ignition system?

Here's the deal. ALL switched voltage comes from the ignition switch, of course. No mystery The outputs from the ignition switch are:
1...ACCESSORY, hot either with key in "accessory" or "run" this feeds to the "ACC" buss in the fuse panel
2...IGN1... "ignition run", dark blue--this is HOT ONLY IN RUN!! It is NOT powered in "start"!!! This feed things like oil light, cluster gauges power, and THROUGH THE bulkhead for underhood loads, depending on year, the VR, the alternator field, some smog doo-dads, electric choke if used, AND THE COIL BALLAST
3...IGN2..."bypass" normally brown. This only goes one place--to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. THIS IS THE ONLY source of power to the ignition system during "crank" It is hot in "start" but it is a DIFFERENT switch contact, so the two circuits are isolated
4..."start"...The yellow start wire....hot only in start, it only goes one place (except 74, seat belt interlock)...goes through the bulkhead connector to the start relay

So, HERE IS THE deal. If you still have the ballast hooked up as OEM, then during start, "battery" goes to the COIL side of the ballast, FEEDS BACKWARDS to the "ignition switch" side, and feeds back to whatever is connected to the dark blue IGN1 line

THIS MEANS that if you have it wired thus, there is VERY LITTLE voltage going to the EFI during "crank." FURTHER.........

If you have an ignition system that does NOT have a ballast, and if you do NOT have the OEM ballast connections connected together, then there is NO voltage to ANY of the ignition / EFI stuff during crank, and the only reason it fires and runs is that you "accidently" released the key partly or fully back to "run" and it re--connected the "run" line to power.

The other possibility is that you have a bad connection in a connector or the ignition switch........the switch connector, or the bulkhead connector.

I would "get on" the splice where you have the EFI connected, and clip a lamp or meter to that point so you can monitor it a few times while cycling from start to run with the key
Click to expand...

My apologies I've been traveling for work and just now getting time to mess with the car.

Beside the Fitech I have a MSD 6AL box, MSD Blaster Coil and a MSD billet distributor (Locked out).

The factory wiring is all still there in reference to the ballast you are talking about it us still hooked up as well.

Everything you just mentioned makes sense when it comes to what's going on. Cranking not firing and when it did must have been when I released the start.

So what do I need to do with this ballast?

16432582003033067778671038234824.jpg
 
I can't tell from that what you had or have done, except it appears you have the brown on top right. Check what is happening right there. Do this:
Put a light or meter on the left side (to ground) Turn key to "run." Should be hot. Crank engine and look at meter/ light when cranking. I bet it is cold

Now put light/ meter on right side on the brown. Do same thing. I bet brown is hot in "crank." If so, splice the brown into the wires on the left. You do not need the ballast with MSD

Left side is likely "run" or IGN1 from the key. Brown on right is likely IGN2/ bypass
 
67Dart273 said:
I can't tell from that what you had or have done, except it appears you have the brown on top right. Check what is happening right there. Do this:
Put a light or meter on the left side (to ground) Turn key to "run." Should be hot. Crank engine and look at meter/ light when cranking. I bet it is cold

Now put light/ meter on right side on the brown. Do same thing. I bet brown is hot in "crank." If so, splice the brown into the wires on the left. You do not need the ballast with MSD

Left side is likely "run" or IGN1 from the key. Brown on right is likely IGN2/ bypass
Click to expand...

Ok so like you stated took a test light/meter to the right side brown wire and at crank it lite up and showed about 10V while cranking.

I then took the brown wire and connected it to the two wires on the left. Which one of the wires is running to the coil and the other red wire is running across the motor to a brown wire that is inside a large plug.

I then reconnected the white FiTech wire to the dark blue with white strip wire under the dash.

Car still cranks wont fire. On the Fitech display it doesnt show rpm valve only 0. But when I jumper the white Fitech wire to the battery and crank the motor I see the rpm on the display but still the motor wont fire.
 
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The blue wire from the Fitech needs to be connected to either the negative side of the coil, the tach output wire from your CDI box (if you're using one) or the tach connection on your ready to run distributor. This is where the Fitech gets it's signal to fire the plugs. When using the blue wire you should have selected the tach option in your initial setup. If you're running timing control then the blue wire isn't used and instead you should be using the green and purple wires connected to the 2 pin pigtail connector on your distributor. When using the 2 pin pigtail you should select the VR coil option in the initial setup. Selecting the incorrect option will keep the car from starting. In fact it's a great anti theft feature. I set mine to tach and then take the controller with me. I hope this helps. I have the 600 hp power adder on my Dart
 
Don't be afraid to "unwire" the FItech so to speak and get it down to the power wires, and hot wire them direct until you get fuel and spark, then "re-add" the FI tech into the harness so to speak.

Go through the FI tech material and make a chart of essentials. For example does the box shut down spark if it does not see fuel pressure? If so, could that be an issue, etc. (example)
 
By the way I connected the brown and blue wires together and connected them both to the white wire. This means that the Fitech will have power applied to it in either crank or run.
 
67Dart273 said:
Don't be afraid to "unwire" the FItech so to speak and get it down to the power wires, and hot wire them direct until you get fuel and spark, then "re-add" the FI tech into the harness so to speak.

Go through the FI tech material and make a chart of essentials. For example does the box shut down spark if it does not see fuel pressure? If so, could that be an issue, etc. (example)
Click to expand...
Great Idea. Let's make sure that it's not an issue elsewhere. By connecting straight to the battery you'll know if it's another connection unrelated to power.
 
superchargeddrt said:
By the way I connected the brown and blue wires together and connected them both to the white wire. This means that the Fitech will have power applied to it in either crank or run.
Click to expand...

The brown and blue wires you are talking about. Are you referring to the ones under dash coming out of the steering column?

superchargeddrt said:
Great Idea. Let's make sure that it's not an issue elsewhere. By connecting straight to the battery you'll know if it's another connection unrelated to power.
Click to expand...

When I connect the white Fitech wire to the positive on the battery. The pumps prime and when I crank the car is when I see the RPM valve on the display.
 
AirForceRacer said:
The brown and blue wires you are talking about. Are you referring to the ones under dash coming out of the steering column?



When I connect the white Fitech wire to the positive on the battery. The pumps prime and when I crank the car is when I see the RPM valve on the display.
Click to expand...

There's your issue. You do not have 12V on the white wire, while cranking. The brown and blue come from the IGN switch. Those have to be wired together and the white wire wired into them. Verify there is 12v while cranking on that set of wires.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
There's your issue. You do not have 12V on the white wire, while cranking. The brown and blue come from the IGN switch. Those have to be wired together and the white wire wired into them. Verify there is 12v while cranking on that set of wires.
Click to expand...

The brown wire that was coming from the right side of the ballast or are you talking about brown wire that's coming from the steering column?
 
The wires that are coming from the ignition switch need to be shorted together
blue/ white tracer ignition. hot only in run. not hot in start
brown coil bypass. hot only in start
Short these 2 together and then connect the white ignition on wire from your Fitech to them. You should not need a ballast resistor with the CDI box and aftermarket coil. Let us know how it works out.
 
superchargeddrt said:
The wires that are coming from the ignition switch need to be shorted together
blue/ white tracer ignition. hot only in run. not hot in start
brown coil bypass. hot only in start
Short these 2 together and then connect the white ignition on wire from your Fitech to them. You should not need a ballast resistor with the CDI box and aftermarket coil. Let us know how it works out.
Click to expand...


Ok please excuse these crud photos and mind you the wire nuts and riged up wiring is only temporary till I figure this all out.

I wire nut all three wires off the ballast and took the ballast out. (Under hood)

Under the dash I crudely wired the brown wire and blue w/white striped wire together to the white Fitech wire. During cranking I had voltage about 10V at the brown wire and about 10-12V at the wire nut that connects the brown/blue to the white Fitech wire.

Still engine wont fire.

20220209_173213.jpg


20220209_174558.jpg
 
AirForceRacer said:
Ok please excuse these crud photos and mind you the wire nuts and riged up wiring is only temporary till I figure this all out.

I wire nut all three wires off the ballast and took the ballast out. (Under hood)

Under the dash I crudely wired the brown wire and blue w/white striped wire together to the white Fitech wire. During cranking I had voltage about 10V at the brown wire and about 10-12V at the wire nut that connects the brown/blue to the white Fitech wire.

Still engine wont fire.

View attachment 1715867235

View attachment 1715867236
Click to expand...

Is Fitech controlling the timing or is it setup as fuel only?

How is your MSD wired? It should be wired the same (12v in run)
 
Here's how your system should be wired.

The purple and green 2 pin connector from the Fitech throttle body should be connected to the 2 pin connector from your distributor. This connector typically has the same color wires (purple and green). Make sure the green is going to green and purple is going to purple, it makes a difference.

Red from your Fitech goes to the battery positive post.

White from the Fitech throttle body goes to the previously discussed brown and blue with white tracer wires.

The black wire from the Fitech throttle body goes to the "points trigger" input from your CDI box (typically a white wire).

BTW, Do you hear the fuel pump running followed by an injector cycle to prime the engine?

Check all of this and report back.
Good Luck
 
Also make sure you have a good ground at the throttle body. You'll notice that one pad on the throttle body doesn't have any anodized coating on it. Make sure you run a good ground wire from there to the frame or body (preferably a ground strap).
 
superchargeddrt said:
Here's how your system should be wired.

The purple and green 2 pin connector from the Fitech throttle body should be connected to the 2 pin connector from your distributor. This connector typically has the same color wires (purple and green). Make sure the green is going to green and purple is going to purple, it makes a difference.

Red from your Fitech goes to the battery positive post.

White from the Fitech throttle body goes to the previously discussed brown and blue with white tracer wires.

The black wire from the Fitech throttle body goes to the "points trigger" input from your CDI box (typically a white wire).

BTW, Do you hear the fuel pump running followed by an injector cycle to prime the engine?

Check all of this and report back.
Good Luck
Click to expand...


Ok cool. I'll go through it when I get home today.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I just want to enjoy this damn car. lol
 
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