Header fitment rant, Doug's

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I bought the Dougs and have the same issue with them hitting the steering link. So I know how you feel, it sucks. I guess I will try and rise the motor on the drivers side, then bring a hammer out after that. Then that's when I will start thinking I should have bought the cheap ones.
 
Check the engine for being center.

I used a piece of pipe to transfer the hammer blow to where I wanted it.

Hope you don't have to do what I did, .
 
Tried to install drivers side torsion bar today, hits the headers, .990 torsion bar.

Since I'm not going to take the engine out for the 10th time, I made a tool that fits on my air hammer to get into that spot. I'll post a pic later.

I could say that I'm getting used to this kind of thing, but I'm not.

I've been at it all day its still not in, still have to dent it further. It ain't easy to get in their.
 
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Torsion bar goes in now but not enough clearance, .010 piece of paper will not slide between.

I'm done for the day, almost got something done.

The drivers side header is so beat up it's pathetic! Stay tuned, still have the passenger side Torsion bar to install.
 
dang, thought you were on a good path a few weeks back, with all I have read it sure seems you have the worst case for fitment, definitely more patience than me, I would have seen what kind of record I could set for the furthest distance a set of headers have been thrown at this point.
 
Dang MOA, I thought you were all set awhile back. Sorry to see you're still battling them headers. Stay cool, get it done and enjoy that ride man!

Be well,
Pat
 
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One thing at a time. I'm trying to get one thing done a day.

The QA struts took a day and I've only completed one side. The lower control arm fastener doesn't allow for a wrench or socket on the strut side, at least not on mine, had to fab up a chingadera to torque the lower control arm.



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Had to sand/grind the metal down so it would fit, stops the fastener from turning using interference.
 
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Divenut said:
Dang MOA, I thought you were all set awhile back. Sorry to see you're still battling them headers. Stay cool, get it down and enjoy that ride man!

Be well,
Pat
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Well, on the the brighter side you might get rich if you patent that tool. In the mean time I'm gonna make one before you get rich off of me! Lol. I still think header companies could do a better job. Something is hitting mine now also. I'm making that tool sooner then later. Keep your chin up! Steve.
 
How much clearance do I need?

I don't want to be hearing it hit the torsion bar when I'm driving it, probably not good for the torsion bar either.

1/8th would be pushing it, 3/16th sounds better.

Right now have .030".
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Poly loc motor mounts, new stock trans mount.
 
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That should be enough.

Used MAP gas, made the process much faster. Thanks for suggesting that.

Hit it with some ceramic exhaust paint, because I have it and it can't hurt.

Torque strap if it makes contact during operation.
 
Something about taking a hammer to a new set of coated headers just doesn't set well with me.Seems with all the issues everyone is having; Doug's would take the time & redo these headers! Just my two cents. I'm sticking with the HiPo Exhaust Manifolds.
 
It seems strange, of the multiple sets I've put on, NONE required that type of hacking to install. I still think there is a engine location issue
 
replicaracer43 said:
It seems strange, of the multiple sets I've put on, NONE required that type of hacking to install. I still think there is a engine location issue
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Maybe?

It it's sitting in there petty Damn close to where it should be, off by about 1/8th, little less.

I can't see myself buying another set of pre fabbed headers, I'll just buy the pieces, fit and weld it up myself.

I wouldn't buy TTI either.


What a waste of time and money this was!

I could have tossed them, sold them, whatever but that still leaves me building my own. Haven't sourced material and don't want to get all side tracked on one thing.

I had to dent the drivers side in 4 places, I expect to have to dent the other side too. Having said that it will probably go in just fine on p side.

All of the dents are significant, they're not small dents.

Who gives a ****, I'm over it, on to the next thing I can get done.
 
daddio4048 said:
Something about taking a hammer to a new set of coated headers just doesn't set well with me.Seems with all the issues everyone is having; Doug's would take the time & redo these headers! Just my two cents. I'm sticking with the HiPo Exhaust Manifolds.
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i agree, but the early 340 drivers side manifold is no walk in the park either.
replicaracer43 said:
It seems strange, of the multiple sets I've put on, NONE required that type of hacking to install. I still think there is a engine location issue
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i can never decide if the car they, (most header mfg), used to build their headers was the most perfectly built to spec, or the worst built to spec car ever to roll down the line
 
Just an fyi. I'm the second owner on this car. It was bone stock when I got it, it has the original engine, trans, k frame. The body is in very good condition, it just sat 20 years under a carport waiting for me to come get it.

There might be something I missed, I did my best to cover all bases, I made some mistakes.

I'm just glad to have the drivers side ready to go together.

The headers are beautiful, but they didn't fit, I had to basically destroy the drivers side, bummer, next.
 
MOA said:
Maybe?

It it's sitting in there petty Damn close to where it should be, off by about 1/8th, little less.

I can't see myself buying another set of pre fabbed headers, I'll just buy the pieces, fit and weld it up myself.

I wouldn't buy TTI either.


What a waste of time and money this was!

I could have tossed them, sold them, whatever but that still leaves me building my own. Haven't sourced material and don't want to get all side tracked on one thing.

I had to dent the drivers side in 4 places, I expect to have to dent the other side too. Having said that it will probably go in just fine on p side.

All of the dents are significant, they're not small dents.

Who gives a ****, I'm over it, on to the next thing I can get done.
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I've built enough headers to know I won't do it again.
 
Dang, those dents look identical to the ones I had for torsion bar clearance. Except that was hedman b-body headers on the 383 in the 67 fastback.
 
MOA said:
You might be right.

I'm retired sheetmetal, specialized in welding. It likely won't be fun, but it will fit.
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LOL. Yep...it won't be fun. The biggest thing is, as I'm sure you've already seen is there just isn't room for much anywhere. And the bigger the tubes, the worse it is. One set I did was a set of 1.875 tube headers with a 3.5 inch collector. I made up new cuss words for that. But it only got worse. The next set for that car were 2.125 tubes with a 4 inch collector. Pulled my hair out on that deal.

Both turned out very well, and fit. I could get to all the plugs, and installation was relatively easy. I've built two other sets with 1.750 tubes and it was better. But damn. Still a nightmare.


As a suggestion, to make everything easier, and make installation easier I'd never ever build a set of headers that didn't have slip on collectors. Ever. All of my headers had (and still do) slip on collectors.

If you do that, you can have three seperate sets of tubes for each side. Obviously, you'll have the 3-5 and 4-6 cylinders with two tubes each, but it makes installation much, much easier.

Also, I always took copious notes on how the tubes were built and in which order. That way, when I had to install the headers, you will know what order they go back in. Makes it simpler for sure.

Slip on collectors are the only way I'd do it.

Good luck.
 
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