Blu, you must of missed the pics I posted with the less than stellar flange machining. That's a quality control issue. Mopar has quality control issues too, I get that.
Since metal fabrication is what I've done all my life, I understand how much variation there can be and have the part look good but not fit good.
I may be able to shift the engine in the k frame a little? I'm certainly going to try, thanks for suggesting it.
As I said, I wish I had another one to try on the driver side.
To look at a problem and not consider all possibilities?
Well have to agree to disagree.
For those that just want to be dick heads, how is that being helpful? That's the kind of **** that stops people from asking questions.
There will be another person that comes along with the exact same problem, maybe my putting this out there might help them? My search didn't produce a lot on the topic, that's why the thread got started.
I saw the pictures of the flange machining. I didn't see anything worth sending them back for. As in, nothing that would have been a problem when they were mounted on the engine. Maybe I missed something? The header you sent back looks better than either one of flanges on the TTI shorties I have. The Doug's have a much better sealing surface.
It's been brought up multiple times, but have you tried anything other than those poly-locs? They're changing the location of the engine significantly compared to stock. With thinner mounts it would be easier to shift the engine over to the passenger side. I honestly think those mounts are the biggest issue here.
Also once they're designed I don't really understand why the dougs are so much more expensive than Summit? Do they use a different material?
They do use a different material. The flanges are thicker and the tubes are a heavier gauge, and there's more welding compared to the cheaper headers. Heck even compared to the TTI's I have. That may not explain the entire price difference, but the design to keep the tubes above the steering links is worth the money for anyone running on the street at anything less than stock ride height. On my car those cheap headers wouldn't have survived the first trip through the grocery store parking lot, they'd have been smashed flat on the first speed bump.
I bought these fasteners, 5/16x18x1" at ace hardware.
View attachment 1715366514
Will need to use a ball end allen wrench for the outboard fasteners. Not talking about the studs on the ends, those are going to stay for now.
I asked for help regarding best bolt type and size, where to get them, zero replies.
Reminds me of the grouch at the machine shop, he needs to retire.
Well what do you know, found the bolts. I didn't remember seeing them with the collectors but decided to check. I bought the headers over three years ago....
View attachment 1715366515
To me this is the story of this entire thread. Take the time to look first. Header fasteners are a specialized deal, they're included with the headers, and the right stuff is readily available in multiple brands, finishes, etc
CHRYSLER 5.9L/360 MOPAR SMALL BLOCK LA Header Fasteners - V8 Engine Type - Bolt Fastener Style
As for not saying anything, I'm not going to go pull the fasteners out of my car to send you the measurements. Seems like the replacement kits come in both 1" and 3/4" bolt lengths, I don't remember what the Doug's supplied version was and I sure would hate to tell you 1" and have you come back on here ranting about how they were too long. Or tell you 3/4" and have you say they're too short for the thick flanges and now you're ranting about that. I love that FABO has the answers to all kinds of questions I have and it's a great resource, but to get mad just because you didn't get a question answered is silly.
Those button head allen key fasteners would have been a colossal pain in the rear. They'd be a pain to tighten enough to seal the flanges, and if you did get them tight enough 5 years from now you'd be cutting them off after rounding out the allen key and having nothing to grab onto.
