Really like the pic of the duster.
The 318 sticker on the back though... trying to snag some unsuspecting victims? LOL
The 318 sticker on the back though... trying to snag some unsuspecting victims? LOL
Really like the pic of the duster.
The 318 sticker on the back though... trying to snag some unsuspecting victims? LOL
I think you're all set for parts now, but I've used Bulkpart.com or John Cope (Cope Racing Transmissions) for my transmission stuff for years now.
Some newbie hints - 5 cans of carb clean won't do it. Get a couple gallons of laquer thinner and a couple deep pans. One pan for "first cleaning", one pan for "final cleaning".
Shop air is your friend.
Get a couple brass bristle brushes to clean out the valve body.
Take one transmission apart at a time and don't confuse the snap rings or thrust washers.
Replace the tailshaft, 2nd gear drum, and pump bushings. If you can't do them all - do the tailshaft. All can be done without special tools.
Don't use a 5.0 lever on the kickdown band.
Do use vasoline or trans assembly grease - not white lube or heavier grease.
2 dental/seal picks really help assembling the clutch packs.
(too late for you) always check end play with a dial indicator before you start, and after you finish. It will "find" errors quickly.
Do not install the pump outer seal or sealing rings until final assembly.
Make sure the vent is clear when cleaning the pump.
Easiest way to assemble is the pump opening facing straight up.
Make sure the kickdown drum is fully engaging all the high gear clutch plates when you assemble. You can easily align the teeth using the two picks before you install the drum.
Pay attention to the kickdown band lever ratio (stamped into the side of it), and the appropriate band adjustment setting for the lever you are using.
Air test the trans before the valve body goes on.
Don't overtighten the valve body or trans pan bolts.
If the pressure plate is not flat against a sheet of glass on at least the clutch side, throw it away; it will make big trouble.So getting things cleaned up here and I'm not liking the top pressure plate. It seems to be depressed more in the center than on the outer edges? Not warped but I'm not sure if it's supposed to be that way and like not reversible? I know everyone's going to kill me for throwing that back in there a but I'm not spending more money! Okay so now I'm about to clean up the last five parts and put the new seals in and restock everything period I better start soaking the clutches. I'm assuming the drum that has the snap ring I can leave alone because I don't believe there's any more seals under there? This is where you speak up or hold your peace LOL okay back to cleaning those parts and then I'll check if I got any answers if not I'm just going to go for it. Oh yeah and that checkpoint check ball that I'm pointing at what's that all about? I'm leaving it in there just cleaning it up.
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I hear you, but I kinda gave up on trying to describe my techniques. It's not worth the inevitable arguements that come along with putting it on a public forum. Suffice to say go slow, use a lot of lube, and think about things before you do them. The tool I use to rebuild the high gear clutch packs is cobbled together with my welder and uses threaded rod to preload the springs and allow the snap rings to go on or off. I use seal picks for the inner seals, and I've never cut or messed up one. I have had to walk away before I used the bfh on them so call that technique development.
Rather than a manual VB, Transgo has a relatively inexpensive shift kit I've used before that eliminates the kick down linkage. I think (THINK...IIRC) the shift pattern stays the say but it will be a full manual shift deal.
If they are teflon vs iron you should still be fine. Personally I like the iron sealing rings more but teflon is pretty common and in some circles considered an upgrade.