Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
I accidentally broke 5 of these metal pieces while unplugging the instrument panel from the dash. I tried to solder them, but it did not work
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How do I replace these metal pieces from my instrument panel?
- Thread starter Dakota Smith
- Start date
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Something like this of equivalent size with some small brass washers and nuts, this supplier would have it.
https://jimorrisco.com/ProductDetail.asp?p=R256B500
You would have to be very careful on the tightening. I have a spare board I can send you but it has some similar issues, may not be any better than you have presently.
https://jimorrisco.com/ProductDetail.asp?p=R256B500
You would have to be very careful on the tightening. I have a spare board I can send you but it has some similar issues, may not be any better than you have presently.
found one problem on the left side///broken power feed pins on the circuit board
used solid copper buzz wire pre tinned everything// used a fiberglass pen to clean everything //soldered everything //checked , bulbs and board for continuity //cut pigtails off of the back,used a dremel tool to sand the backs of the pins flush with the board an a piece of gorilla tape on the back to keep the back from shorting out on the cluster frame.
stronger than factory !!!!!!
used solid copper buzz wire pre tinned everything// used a fiberglass pen to clean everything //soldered everything //checked , bulbs and board for continuity //cut pigtails off of the back,used a dremel tool to sand the backs of the pins flush with the board an a piece of gorilla tape on the back to keep the back from shorting out on the cluster frame.
stronger than factory !!!!!!
Lord Sparky
Well-Known Member
The replacement boards have solid terminals.
if your comfortable with your skills it's a LOT cheaper than this...
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Parts | MA118511 | 1967-71 Mopar A-Body With Rallye Gauges Dash Circuit Boards (Pair) | Classic Industries
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Parts | MA118511 | 1967-71 Mopar A-Body With Rallye Gauges Dash Circuit Boards (Pair) | Classic Industries
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my68barracuda
Well-Known Member
The solder is there to make a good electrical connection. The staking of the pin is where the strength comes from.
this is exactly the way i done my board 8 years ago , no problems since . to the op get a butane pencil torch and clean everything super clean you will be hard pressed to get the heat with the iron . also use t.v. radio flux core solder . this is what worked for me and is very easy to do .
Alaskan_TA
Well-Known Member
Tips on how to repair that & many other details on redoing gauge clusters in the thread at Cluster Restoration.
Send it to me and I can replace them. I have the proper terminals and dies to crimp them on properly. Better than original.
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Why the pins weren't soldered from the factory... If the pin pulls away from the board it will peel the copper trace off the board with it.
Not all models have circuit boards. So follow copper trace from broken pin to where it goes. If it goes to a lamp socket, anchor and solder replacement pin for the harness connector is easier/more practical than alternate lamp socket with wires.
Where copper trace goes to a gauge post, you can remove that wire from the connector and put a ring terminal on it. Place the wire on that post. Original speedy nut first, then your ring terminal followed by toothed washer and 10-32 hex nut just like those on your amp gauge. Home Depot has them in little orange packages. Less than a dollar each.
Those other models ( e-body for example ) have 90 degree insulated push on terminals. Those would be great to have/use here but... finding them for a #10 post in the aftermarket isn't easy. Majority are for #8 post, too small.
Not all models have circuit boards. So follow copper trace from broken pin to where it goes. If it goes to a lamp socket, anchor and solder replacement pin for the harness connector is easier/more practical than alternate lamp socket with wires.
Where copper trace goes to a gauge post, you can remove that wire from the connector and put a ring terminal on it. Place the wire on that post. Original speedy nut first, then your ring terminal followed by toothed washer and 10-32 hex nut just like those on your amp gauge. Home Depot has them in little orange packages. Less than a dollar each.
Those other models ( e-body for example ) have 90 degree insulated push on terminals. Those would be great to have/use here but... finding them for a #10 post in the aftermarket isn't easy. Majority are for #8 post, too small.
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
I will try this. Thank you!
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
I tried to solder this wire to the old metal piece like you did in the photo, but the solder won't stick. Is there a certain type of solder or copper wire I need to buy?
I posted this before but I cant find it. Here are some pics of the die and press used to crimp the pins. Next shot is the board with pins replaced. Third is optional, has the pins soldered to the traces.
These pins are much stronger than the originals and have a far superior crimp in the back.
These pins are much stronger than the originals and have a far superior crimp in the back.
Those look awesome! What do you charge?
$2.50 per pin plus return shipping.
cudajim
cudajim
I used the wire method inside the pin too but the trick is to clean the surrounding copper traces well and flow the solder all the way around the pin. I use a combination of xacto knife and fine sandpaper to get it clean so solder will adhere to it.
Nice!
How tall are the new pins?
7/16"
Is that a hair taller than original, or overall length through the board?
I'm really asking does it stand different height if only replacing a few?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There used to be an excellent old thread on this board "how' to do this, but photophpukpukpukpilbucket puked up the internet. I "fixed" mine by eliminating the factory connector, cut it off and used a pair of Molex style connectors, and soldered wire pigtails to the circuit board.
This thread
Printed circuit pins repair
See if this helps this is out of the old software and you must click on the black icons to bring up the photos
Instrument cluster testing
This thread
Printed circuit pins repair
See if this helps this is out of the old software and you must click on the black icons to bring up the photos
Instrument cluster testing
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I hear ya!
It's just that if Mike's pins are the same finished hieght as the originals I'd have him rivet one in.
Otherwise I'll reinforce the one with a brass escucheon pin.
I'm trying to learn to outsource some work and leave me more time to do the things I can't or won't outsource.
The new pins are just slightly longer. Honestly, I would not just replace a couple. They are much better than the originals. Replace them all and be done with it.
Done.
Filed the head flat on an escutcheon pin.
Britened the shank with fine emery.
Cleaned the inside of the contact pin with a copper wire strands, deoxit followeed by fast dry electocontact cleaner.
A tiny amount of non-corossive flux in the contact pin.
Partially installed the escutchen pin (with the board gently but firmly held vertical in a vise with felt cloth).
Applied heat to the escutcheun pin and then some solder. Heated the contact pin, then the escutchean pin til the solder flowed again and pushed the pin all the way in while applying the iron to the contact pin.
Hold both pieces in posiution while it cools.
Clean flux residue.
I wouldn't do that with a bunch completely broken when Mike has the offer to replace with new. But for just one, and this one was still attached, was a reasonable way to repair.
Filed the head flat on an escutcheon pin.
Britened the shank with fine emery.
Cleaned the inside of the contact pin with a copper wire strands, deoxit followeed by fast dry electocontact cleaner.
A tiny amount of non-corossive flux in the contact pin.
Partially installed the escutchen pin (with the board gently but firmly held vertical in a vise with felt cloth).
Applied heat to the escutcheun pin and then some solder. Heated the contact pin, then the escutchean pin til the solder flowed again and pushed the pin all the way in while applying the iron to the contact pin.
Hold both pieces in posiution while it cools.
Clean flux residue.
I wouldn't do that with a bunch completely broken when Mike has the offer to replace with new. But for just one, and this one was still attached, was a reasonable way to repair.
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