I say the bulkhead connectors are burned off. Kkm
I don't get this. If the OP is running an MSD CDI box, I'm not sure how grounding the coil would cause all this mess. The coil+ on an MSD 6 or other CD box is not connected into the normal power feed like it is originally.
In any case you need to troubleshoot each problem "on it's own" and do some actual troubleshooting, not guess
The fuse link is not open if you have power "in the car" such as dome, headlights.
So start with the feeds into the engine bay. There are only 3 to worry about
1....Ignition run, or IGN1 comes from the key "run" contact, and feeds some things in the car such as cluster power, and goes through the bulkhead originally to the ballast. This should now be connected to your MSD "small red." So with the key in run you should have power there This is often dark blue, refer to your shop manual, not all years
2....Ignition "bypass" or IGN2 bypasses the ignition resistor and is the only ignition power during cranking. With the key twisted to "start" the MSD "small red" should also be hot. IGN1, above, goes dead in this function
3...The normally yellow "start" wire. This comes off the key, is hot ONLY in "start" and goes through the bulkhead to one of the two small flag connectors on the starter relay. Check with a light or meter, this should be "hot" with the key held in "start."
From there, power goes through the starter relay coil, (magnet) and "comes out" on the remaining small flag connector. From there, it is grounded in park or neutral by the neutral safety switch, or if stick car, is grounded by the clutch safety switch.
You need a service manual and or wiring diagram if you don't have one. I've posted this a xillion times. Go to MyMopar and download them for free.
THANKS. It appears to be a major power problem
First, with all wiring connected "as normal", measure voltage with your meter to the large alternator (black) output wire at the alternator stud. That should be "same as battery" at all times. If you have voltage there, pull out the headlight switch and recheck.
Next, wiggle the bulkhead connectors with the light switch "on" and look for any activity in the headlights. Also wiggle the fuse link area. Take the terminal/ connector part in that fuse link area, check it for continuity. That really at this point is the most likely suspect
If you have not done so, probe into the bulkhead connector area where the fuse link connects, and see if you show voltage there. If so,..........
OK next thing I'd do is pull the bulkhead connector sections apart and inspect the terminals. This is a known problem in these girls.
Read this article for information. Don't worry about the bypass part of the article, but it explains part of the problems with the bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit That article also has a simplified diagram which shows a good idea of the primary power distribution
Catalog
The diagram from this article:
View attachment 1715493894
Follow along. There are minor differences over the years. From the battery, power gets to the big stud on the starter relay. This is not only a junction point, that stud is also one contact of the starter relay. From there, the fuse link goes through the bulkhead connector, on the RED ammeter wire to the AMMETER. Through the ammeter, and out on the big BLACK wire. A few inches later you get to the WELDED SPLICE. From there power branches off and feeds the IGNITION SWITCH, the FUSE PANEL hot bus, and HEADLIGHTS power. It also feeds back out through the bulkhead connector (BLACK) to the alternator
So WHAT could have failed?
In no particular order, the fuse link, connections at the bulkhead connector (RED), connections at the ammeter, and the welded splice itself.
Well I finally had time to get back at it. I went through the steps in your earlier post and found I do have power with the switch on out the yellow wire on the relay. Went back as I have already removed and bypass the fusible link pull the bulkhead connector apart little corroded but seem to be get in good shape. Cleaned it up and put it back together.I do have power on the other side of it as well as out the fuses.I guess my next step is to pull the dashboard and check the meter gauge?
What was it after you turned on the headlights?First, with all wiring connected "as normal", measure voltage with your meter to the large alternator (black) output wire at the alternator stud. That should be "same as battery" at all times. If you have voltage there, pull out the headlight switch and recheck.
Yes its possible.It does have the MSD box and distributor could I have done something to the box?
Well I finally had time to get back at it. I went through the steps in your earlier post and found I do have power with the switch on out the yellow wire on the relay. Went back as I have already removed and bypass the fusible link pull the bulkhead connector apart little corroded but seem to be get in good shape. Cleaned it up and put it back together.I do have power on the other side of it as well as out the fuses.I guess my next step is to pull the dashboard and check the meter gauge?
Strike one!I say the bulkhead connectors are burned off. Kkm
Well by George took quite some time chasing it but I got it! Pull the bulkhead connector apart again cleaned it up really well,Replace the starter relay and the neutral safety switch in the transmission guess that short knocked out quite a bit.I still think the fusible link was part of the issue as well Probably the last to go. Runs excellent. Thank you for taking the time to explain it to me I appreciate it! Out of all of this I do have two questions^^Just for electrical correctness, the "G" and "I" terminals can have the wires reverse in some years and they work fine, electrically. For some years, the connectors are molded "keyed" so that they only go on one way. But electrically does not matter.
Should I install a new fuse or fusible link?
Should I illuminate the ballast resistor in electronics box?