Ironracer
Gearhead
Is it normal to idle over a grand, yet drop into park, lose 5 or 6 hundred then stall?
Idle drop by 500 rpm?
- Thread starter Ironracer
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What lift and duration on the cam for starters?
Ironracer
Gearhead
,
. 484 MP it's the older version 282?
idle falls when put into park? I'm assuming when put into "gear". Shouldn't experience a 500 rpm drop. If the timing is correct, and the idle circuit is correct, and the converter matches the cam, it shouldn't drop 500 rpms' and the fact that it dies is a sure sign one of these is wrong.
Other than stock stall converter?
I've run this cam with stock converters, no issues as you are experiencing. I'd go to initial timing first (I'd guess 14*-20* would be a place to start). Then the idle circuit on the carb.
Oh, too often we overlook the simple things. A major vacuum leak will do the same thing.
Ironracer
Gearhead
I cracked the throttle blades in the rear just a little bit put it back on, idled at 650 p, then ran at 500 in D... open up the idle circuits a little bit which brought the idle up some , and now this. Crazy...
Ironracer
Gearhead
Timing is @22° according to a Matco dial back, still pulling vacuum in park @1200 rpm.. need to locate a piston stop..seems like she wants more timing. Fires right up, no drag on starter
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Would think you would want your rear secondary blades closed.
That is certainly going to affect your idle ciruit if they are slightly open at idle.
Want to do all of your idle tuning on the front primaries and idle circuit richment screws.
Base timing seems aweful high?
That is certainly going to affect your idle ciruit if they are slightly open at idle.
Want to do all of your idle tuning on the front primaries and idle circuit richment screws.
Base timing seems aweful high?
Ironracer
Gearhead
2200 MP.unit. this motor and tranny was in my 66 satellite and daily driven down here in Tampa for a few years until the car got wrecked by the X I pulled everything out put it in the Duster it was pulling vacuum advance at idle so we decided to play with it but it never was in the transfer slots
Ironracer
Gearhead
Yessir, seems high as heck to me..don't need Detonation! I had one of the Ehrenberg distributors in there and when I mapped it out with a timing light I found out it was adding too much so I had one curved. Was running points in the Sat
Ironracer
Gearhead
Sorry, yes. From Park to Gear...
I like the points distributors.
Ironracer
Gearhead
Yes. Kinda fail safe. We may need em soon! I kept the ol one!
Ironracer
Gearhead
So according to this timing light with the vacuum advance disconnected I'm 35°@ 1400 by dialing the distributor to get the highest rpm I can. And Now, presto, kickback!
Ironracer
Gearhead
Dropped er to 18 BTDC. Idles a 800, still dies in gear, bleeds at 2 turns out
Ironracer
Gearhead
So if the damper and light are correct, I guess I'll close the Secondary blades. Oddly enough when it started when cold after I open them up and fired right up and idle at 600 and then 400 in Drive..reset the screws to 2.5 out. Seemed fine, but the timing was higher than when we set it last. All I did then was adjust the timing, then the stalling came into play...
What is the carb?
Bet it's a Holley . . .
Bet it's a Holley . . .
Ironracer
Gearhead
Yessir. Bought it new 12 years ago, never an issue. 750 vac. Only alteration was a quick change spring kit. Till a cracked the secondaries just a Lil
I don't understand the reasoning for cracking the secondaries open??
What's the purpose to that, especially vacuum secondaries?
What's the purpose to that, especially vacuum secondaries?
Ironracer
Gearhead
I was, and still am, pulling vacuum from the high port.
You will have to fight with that one on your own.
I personally use the Edelbrock carbs because they are very simple to work on and adjust. Easy to get things to run right, and electric choke besides.
Plenty of other things to work on with these cars, I like not having carburation being one of the problems to have to work through.
Now if you are a racer, then that is a whole other can of worms.
I personally use the Edelbrock carbs because they are very simple to work on and adjust. Easy to get things to run right, and electric choke besides.
Plenty of other things to work on with these cars, I like not having carburation being one of the problems to have to work through.
Now if you are a racer, then that is a whole other can of worms.
With your secondaries cracked open you are loosing all of your vacuum at an idle, then in turn your vacuum advance is doing nothing because there is no vacuum there to pull the vacuum advance so it dies when the idle drops when you put it into gear.
Over the internet diagnostics, no easy task . . .
Over the internet diagnostics, no easy task . . .
Ironracer
Gearhead
Well, just finished dinner. Went back out, fired it up, gave it the smallest pedal w/ foot brake, and it stayed running in gear. Probably just need to close the secondaries back up, and leave it the heck alone! I'm not a professional carburetor tuner I may be trying to get this thing dialed in " too much"... lol. I know I had less problems when I didn't mess with it! Thanks George!
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