Ironracer
Gearhead
Is it normal to idle over a grand, yet drop into park, lose 5 or 6 hundred then stall?
,What lift and duration on the cam for starters?
I've run this cam with stock converters, no issues as you are experiencing. I'd go to initial timing first (I'd guess 14*-20* would be a place to start). Then the idle circuit on the carb.,
. 484 MP it's the older version 282?
Oh, too often we overlook the simple things. A major vacuum leak will do the same thing.Is it normal to idle over a grand, yet drop into park, lose 5 or 6 hundred then stall?
I cracked the throttle blades in the rear just a little bit put it back on, idled at 650 p, then ran at 500 in D... open up the idle circuits a little bit which brought the idle up some , and now this. Crazy...I've run this cam with stock converters, no issues as you are experiencing. I'd go to initial timing first (I'd guess 14*-20* would be a place to start). Then the idle circuit on the carb.
Timing is @22° according to a Matco dial back, still pulling vacuum in park @1200 rpm.. need to locate a piston stop..seems like she wants more timing. Fires right up, no drag on starterI've run this cam with stock converters, no issues as you are experiencing. I'd go to initial timing first (I'd guess 14*-20* would be a place to start). Then the idle circuit on the carb.
2200 MP.unit. this motor and tranny was in my 66 satellite and daily driven down here in Tampa for a few years until the car got wrecked by the X I pulled everything out put it in the Duster it was pulling vacuum advance at idle so we decided to play with it but it never was in the transfer slotsOther than stock stall converter?
Yessir, seems high as heck to me..don't need Detonation! I had one of the Ehrenberg distributors in there and when I mapped it out with a timing light I found out it was adding too much so I had one curved. Was running points in the SatWould think you would want your rear secondary blades closed.
That is certainly going to affect your idle ciruit if they are slightly open at idle.
Want to do all of your idle tuning on the front primaries and idle circuit richment screws.
Base timing seems aweful high?
Sorry, yes. From Park to Gear...idle falls when put into park? I'm assuming when put into "gear". Shouldn't experience a 500 rpm drop. If the timing is correct, and the idle circuit is correct, and the converter matches the cam, it shouldn't drop 500 rpms' and the fact that it dies is a sure sign one of these is wrong.
Yes. Kinda fail safe. We may need em soon! I kept the ol one!I like the points distributors.
Yessir. Bought it new 12 years ago, never an issue. 750 vac. Only alteration was a quick change spring kit. Till a cracked the secondaries just a LilWhat is the carb?
Bet it's a Holley . . .
I was, and still am, pulling vacuum from the high port.I don't understand the reasoning for cracking the secondaries open??
What's the purpose to that, especially vacuum secondaries?
Well, just finished dinner. Went back out, fired it up, gave it the smallest pedal w/ foot brake, and it stayed running in gear. Probably just need to close the secondaries back up, and leave it the heck alone! I'm not a professional carburetor tuner I may be trying to get this thing dialed in " too much"... lol. I know I had less problems when I didn't mess with it! Thanks George!With your secondaries cracked open you are loosing all of your vacuum at an idle, then in turn your vacuum advance is doing nothing because there is no vacuum there to pull the vacuum advance so it dies when the idle drops when you put it into gear.
Over the internet diagnostics, no easy task . . .