Inspection of a 904 torqueflite

[Duane]

After some time and trial. I was able to get the rings to compress. Once they did it was easier to get the output shaft in and out as needed. They are the interlocking set. It just took some more wiggling to get them to compress

Once the output shaft was in. I kept adding the pieces. I had replaced all the bushings with my press and a bushing driver set. They went in smooth.

When trying to put on the sun shell with gears. It wouldn’t lock into place all the way. It was 1/16” off.... I couldn’t figure out why. There was no reason for it not to.
I found out one of the bushings was tight. It wouldn’t let the shell slide into place. I took it all apart and put the sun gears on the output shaft by itself. Just to make sure there wasn’t any other binding.
There are two bushings in the shell. I filed them and finally was able to get it to seat. Ruinin*the bushings in the process.

Is this common where you press bushings in and they have a sort of high spot and won’t work?

So then.....I decided to check the others. I found the reaction shaft had the same issue. It was tight and wouldn’t let the pump set down into the input shaft.

So.....I’m building two transmissions. 999 and 904. Same transmission basically. The 904......no issues. Those bushings are the same and were pressed at the same time. Same part number even.
The 999 has some of the bushings tight. What causes this? They were pressed in gently and went in fine. Now. I have to order another set. Replacing all the bushings has been a learning experience and not always gone smoothly.

It sometimes happens, usually at the ends of the bushing, usually they need a scrape to cut down the burrs or raised edges.
Again watch your terminology. There are no bushings in the suns hell. There are bushings in the sun gear. The rings you were talking about are on the parking gear.

 

[CudaFactHackJob]

I replace a lot of pump bushings, and a few direct drums', but for the most part, I just pitch em and grab another one off the shelf. Beginners think they can just replace all the bushing easy peasy; I guess it's cuz the kits come with a full set; like it's an easy thing to do without messing half of them up. A distorted bushing isn't near as good as a half worn out one. Like I said in the beginning; about ten pages back...haha.

 

[glhx]

A lot of the bushings didn’t need to be replaced. I only did it for the learning experience. To see what would happen and make mistakes.
Most of the time the learning process happens when things go wrong. Not when they go right.

So far. Putting in the bushings has been the hardest part of this project. They did go in pretty easy and the other transmission. The 904, had no issues with them. All of those went in smooth and turned smoothly.

Some of them I thought I had pressed in far enough and needed to put in a little farther. Others had issues with the bushing driver, just barely too big to drive it a little further into the housing. The driver had to be machined down a little.

The pump bushings. I ordered 5 of them for both transmissions. 1 went in crooked, 2 were staked wrong and by the time I got to the last two they went in well and were staked perfectly.

Even with a press and the right tools there was a learning curve.

The really thin bushings were the hardest. I couldn’t even use the press to get them in. They had to be driven slowly in with a hammer.
Went through 4 of them in both transmissions.

The ones for the clutch drums. I used my cam bearing installer to get those in. Most driver sets don’t go up to 2”

Now....the cam bearings I installed. That only took 3 boxes to get right.....and about 3 practice ones with the ones I messed up. By the second box I had only messed up one bearing.

 

[glhx]

Now as far as hitting patients with a hammer. Some of them should have had that done a long time ago. Might have woke them up a bit.

If you smoke....for 40 years, still want a cigarette, and you can’t get out of bed because you have heavy copd. Then you want me to drug you up with oxycodone, Ativan, and morphine. It’s not gonna happen. Someone might have hit you with a hammer 20 years prior and gotten you to stop because I deal with that every day I work. They will never be able to get better or breath again like they used to. It only gets worse.....as so many other things.

If you do meth and I can’t get an IV into your arm because your veins are so shot. It might not even matter. Because all you want is out and to either get more meth or your mind is so shot your hallucinating and on your way to the neuro doctors....but your not coming mentally back and your family suffers more than you at that point.......

I can trash bushings....saw a transmission in half.....go get a new one and break that one....then go get another new one.

But a smoker can’t fix that mistake. We all do stupid things. We don’t eat right and have severe hypertension or diabetes or whatever. Most of them won’t change. In the latter part they suffer for it.

For me personally. It has shown me where I can maybe mess up and where I can’t.......and how much I should take seriously about what I’m doing. That’s why I’m not afraid to try. I guess because I see the end ever day and know my own mortality and that failure......is an option.

The things that can be replaced. Not a big deal. The things that can’t. Might have been watched a little more closely.

When I put these in wrong and they don’t work out well. There is some frustration. Nothing however compared to watching someone fall apart and there is literally nothing I can do for them. It’s a very hard job.

I guess what I’m trying to say that some things are important and some aren’t.

 

[CudaFactHackJob]

When there's never enough time to do it right there's always enough time to do it twice. The transmissions I work on are more important than the patients you work on. I know because I take the time to get the terminology correct because I respect the machine enough to put in the effort. These transmissions are very very important; a lot more important that the life of a methhead or chainsmoker. These transmissions are called upon to do a job and they do it well; unlike some people. Some people like dogs more than people. I like transmissions more than some people. Maybe that's what happens when you love what you do.

 

[Duane]

Now as far as hitting patients with a hammer. Some of them should have had that done a long time ago. Might have woke them up a bit.

If you smoke....for 40 years, still want a cigarette, and you can’t get out of bed because you have heavy copd. Then you want me to drug you up with oxycodone, Ativan, and morphine. It’s not gonna happen. Someone might have hit you with a hammer 20 years prior and gotten you to stop because I deal with that every day I work. They will never be able to get better or breath again like they used to. It only gets worse.....as so many other things.

If you do meth and I can’t get an IV into your arm because your veins are so shot. It might not even matter. Because all you want is out and to either get more meth or your mind is so shot your hallucinating and on your way to the neuro doctors....but your not coming mentally back and your family suffers more than you at that point.......

I can trash bushings....saw a transmission in half.....go get a new one and break that one....then go get another new one.

But a smoker can’t fix that mistake. We all do stupid things. We don’t eat right and have severe hypertension or diabetes or whatever. Most of them won’t change. In the latter part they suffer for it.

For me personally. It has shown me where I can maybe mess up and where I can’t.......and how much I should take seriously about what I’m doing. That’s why I’m not afraid to try. I guess because I see the end ever day and know my own mortality and that failure......is an option.

The things that can be replaced. Not a big deal. The things that can’t. Might have been watched a little more closely.

When I put these in wrong and they don’t work out well. There is some frustration. Nothing however compared to watching someone fall apart and there is literally nothing I can do for them. It’s a very hard job.

I guess what I’m trying to say that some things are important and some aren’t.

I like your post and I like Cudafacts post as well. Two differing perspectives on your professions.
It sheds light on why we all do different things for a living.
And that everyone is born with different talents.
On the 904 with the low gear, the one bushing that I have seen that is consistently really worn out is the bushing in the low gear set.
The one where you take the snap ring off to disassemble the
Gear set. That bushing is not very wide and the ones I,ve seen always need a new one. Others I agree could probably run again.
I also agree that sometimes making a mistake is how we learn.

 

[glhx]

Is there a process to get that low gear set bushing on straight. I went through several just messing with it. With the press, It wasn’t going to happen. I even broke a ring gear support pressing one in too hard. Lesson learned there. The only way it went on straight was
With the hammer and driver. A lot of the other bushings straighten themselves out, but not that one.

Then when it was finally in. The low gear set didn’t want to go through it. I tapped it through just to see what would happen. It finally broke through. Showing the low gear set itself had a high spot on the tip of the assembly. When it was through. It turned just fine but scored the bearing on the way in. Had to start all over again. I see that the shorter the bushing. The harder it is to get in straight. The reason I tapped it through was to see if it was the bushing or the gear set. I’ll have to file down the end of gear set race until it goes right in and replace the bushing.

So far. The 999 has given me the most issues. The 904 has gone pretty smooth but it was running in my car and the history was somewhat known.

 

[Duane]

Is there a process to get that low gear set bushing on straight. I went through several just messing with it. With the press, It wasn’t going to happen. I even broke a ring gear support pressing one in too hard. Lesson learned there. The only way it went on straight was
With the hammer and driver. A lot of the other bushings straighten themselves out, but not that one.

Then when it was finally in. The low gear set didn’t want to go through it. I tapped it through just to see what would happen. It finally broke through. Showing the low gear set itself had a high spot on the tip of the assembly. When it was through. It turned just fine but scored the bearing on the way in. Had to start all over again. I see that the shorter the bushing. The harder it is to get in straight. The reason I tapped it through was to see if it was the bushing or the gear set. I’ll have to file down the end of gear set race until it goes right in and replace the bushing.

So far. The 999 has given me the most issues. The 904 has gone pretty smooth but it was running in my car and the history was somewhat known.

No exact process to my knowledge either. I have only done a few.
I would use some kind of driver or a flat piece of wood. You are correct, the hardest part is to get it to start straight. I have found you need a heavy enough hammer too to get enough force to correct the slight crookedness of the bushing. A proper sized fitting bushing driver is best though. Cudafact may be able to better advise you here. As he would have more experience.

 

[glhx]

On this note. I was able to get the reaction shaft bushing out in less than 5 minutes. the first time took a lot of frustration and about an hour just to sort through a good way of getting it out. I tried all kinds of stuff.

This time.....I dremeled the joint to thin it out.
I was able to get the busing driver down through the other side with the first piece that would fit through, but kept slipping on the bushing. I had tried this before with a socket and extension. It worked just ok. The sockets rounded ends didn’t bite nearly as well as the bushing driver.

The fact that I dremeled it on the joint so thin made it weak enough in the right place......that even though the driver slipped sometimes. It pushed it right out in 30 seconds. It was a seamless ordeal this time.

Here is the driver and dremel tip I used

-

I was weary and dreaded doing it. Now that it’s sorted it won’t be a problem again if it ever needs to be done.

-

-

-

This is what the brand new bushing looks like now
When it was installed. It looked perfect. It went in very smooth.
I used the micrometer on the shaft itself all over to see if it had high spots. There were none.

The reaction shaft would not seat all the way down.
Look at the wear ring in the middle. How did this happen? I can only speculate.
So after I got it out. I checked it loose. Even out of the housing it would still only go that far. It is the correct bushing.

The spot was so high that no matter what I could not get it to wear down enough to seat. I pushed pretty hard and rotated it. I just got stuck. After it was out I micd it. The middle ring was .002 smaller than the shaft race. Outside of he ring was .004 bigger than the race. No wonder it was tight.

To make sure that was not one of the 3 small seal rings. I took them off to isolate the spot causing the problem. It’s like there is a huge high spot in the middle of the bushing. The wear ring inside the bushing would indicate this to be true.

The input shaft race would not go past this model ring in the bushing and seat correctly.
I ordered another bushing and we will see if that works.

I did also notice that the 904 and 999 bushings that fit into the reaction shaft are different. The 904 race and bushing is about 1/4” taller.

This was also the bushing where my driver set was the perfect size of the bushing and would not allow the driver to go any farther than the housing. It was too big to drop through. I’m wondering if that is originally the cause of this. I did put some pressure on it at the end not knowing this.. not much but it wouldn’t take much.

So the lesson here is. Make sure the driver sits well on the bushing AND goes through the housing.

The other lesson is to press the bushings in ....and THEN .....before putting the transmission together. Make sure they rotate on the races they are supposed to rotate on.

Honestly.....I’ll be glad when this project is done. I felt like I did it right and didn’t cut any corners on it.

 

[glhx]

There is a question I have.

I have a 1967 annulus support for the ring gear in the low gear assembly that was supposed to replace the 1976 support I broke when I put that thin bushing in.

These two supports have the same part number. However: the teeth on the 75 are 1/16 longer than they are on the 67

Go to the 87 support. Different diameter and part number .
The teeth on it are the same height as the 75.

What’s the deal with this. I don’t want to build the 904 until I know if the 67 support will work in the 76 of if I should find a support that is identical in measurement

What I would guess is that it won’t work because the 76 is the 4/4 and the 67 is a 4/3. That extra height is set for that extra clutch. .....
Why do they have the same part number then?

 

[Duane]

There is a question I have.

I have a 1967 annulus support for the ring gear in the low gear assembly that was supposed to replace the 1976 support I broke when I put that thin bushing in.

These two supports have the same part number. However: the teeth on the 75 are 1/16 longer than they are on the 67

Go to the 87 support. Different diameter and part number .
The teeth on it are the same height as the 75.

What’s the deal with this. I don’t want to build the 904 until I know if the 67 support will work in the 76 of if I should find a support that is identical in measurement

What I would guess is that it won’t work because the 76 is the 4/4 and the 67 is a 4/3. That extra height is set for that extra clutch. .....
Why do they have the same part number then?

You should post pictures here to be sure we understand what you are questioning. However it sounds like you are looking at the height of the splines that engage with the clutches. That height varies according to how many clutches are in the forward clutch.
The longer is for a four clutch. Post pics if you can.

 

[glhx]

-

-

These have the same part number.

The taller one has teeth .855
The shorter teeth. .790

76 was the first year for the 4 forward clutch. The other one sitting next to it is a 67 with 3 forward clutch and shorter teeth for less frictions.

The teeth on the 76 are the same as the 999. Because the 999 has a 4 forward clutch. But the 999 is a 5” gear and the 904 is 4.5”

 

[Duane]

View attachment 1715408600 -

View attachment 1715408601-

These have the same part number.

The taller one has teeth .0855
The shorter teeth. .0790

76 was the first year for the 4 forward clutch. The other one sitting next to it is a 67 with 3 forward clutch and shorter teeth for less frictions.

The teeth on the 76 are the same as the 999. Because the 999 has a 4 forward clutch. But the 999 is a 5” gear and the 904 is 4.5”

The diameter difference is because one is a 2:45 1st gear and the larger is a 2:74 1st gear. All the low 1st gear sets that I have seen use the longer splines because the low gear set models were all 4 clutch as far as I know.

 

[glhx]

The diameter difference is because one is a 2:45 1st gear and the larger is a 2:74 1st gear. All the low 1st gear sets that I have seen use the longer splines because the low gear set models were all 4 clutch as far as I know.

Both of those are not low first gear sets. They are both for a 904 and both 2.45
One on the left is a 67. The one on the right is 76.
The diameter and everything on those two are the same.

The only difference is that the splines are higher in the 76 and it has that ridge on the inside. You can’t se it that well in the picture. I’ll see if I can get a bigger picture.

 

[glhx]

-
They are the same 2.45 gear set and the diameter on everything is the same.

-

-
The 67 is on the left. It has shorter teeth

-
This is the 76 it has a ridge

-
This is the 67......it’s smooth

Basically....I could use that 67 set if the teeth were a bit taller and accounted for that extra clutch pack to grab

Since the 67 is a 4/3 and the 76 is a 4/4. That forward clutch on the 76 has that extra clutch and needs those longer splines.

 

[Duane]

View attachment 1715408732 -
They are the same 2.45 gear set and the diameter on everything is the same.

View attachment 1715408733 -

View attachment 1715408734-
The 67 is on the left. It has shorter teeth


View attachment 1715408735 -
This is the 76 it has a ridge


View attachment 1715408736 -
This is the 67......it’s smooth

Basically....I could use that 67 set if the teeth were a bit taller and accounted for that extra clutch pack to grab

Since the 67 is a 4/3 and the 76 is a 4/4. That forward clutch on the 76 has that extra clutch and needs those longer splines.

Agreed. 3 clutch and 4 clutch.

 

[CudaFactHackJob]

I've never used a bushing driver. I start bushings in with a large plate so that I can tell immediately if it's going to ****. You cocked the bushing and made a crescent shaped indentation. I use a th350 valve body support plate to start most bushings and several transmission parts to finish them in. I guess I should buy a bushing driver set since I do have a press. But I use a flat plate as big as will fit, and start tapping the bushing in. The large diameter of the plate tells me immediately if it is cocking. It's pretty hard to tell if it's cocking when you use a small diameter driver, because it doesn't take much to be off center enough to damage the bushing pretty quick. Find a six inch diameter plate 3/8" thick. It's the best way I've found for beginners to not mess up. I just never upgraded to the professional tools. Bushing drivers are designed to barely fit inside the bushing and barely over the edge. It has to fit perfect or it makes a mess. I install external seals the same way. Using a bushing driver by hand is chancy because if you don't have the tool perfectly in line you will distort it. The best way is using a press that the driver mounts into perfectly. It's a ramble, but I keep thinking about all the times that transmissions have come in disassembled; along with a "complete" rebuild kit and half the bushings are either mangled or missing.

 

[Duane]

I've never used a bushing driver. I start bushings in with a large plate so that I can tell immediately if it's going to ****. You cocked the bushing and made a crescent shaped indentation. I use a th350 valve body support plate to start most bushings and several transmission parts to finish them in. I guess I should buy a bushing driver set since I do have a press. But I use a flat plate as big as will fit, and start tapping the bushing in. The large diameter of the plate tells me immediately if it is cocking. It's pretty hard to tell if it's cocking when you use a small diameter driver, because it doesn't take much to be off center enough to damage the bushing pretty quick. Find a six inch diameter plate 3/8" thick. It's the best way I've found for beginners to not mess up. I just never upgraded to the professional tools. Bushing drivers are designed to barely fit inside the bushing and barely over the edge. It has to fit perfect or it makes a mess. I install external seals the same way. Using a bushing driver by hand is chancy because if you don't have the tool perfectly in line you will distort it. The best way is using a press that the driver mounts into perfectly. It's a ramble, but I keep thinking about all the times that transmissions have come in disassembled; along with a "complete" rebuild kit and half the bushings are either mangled or missing.

Sometimes you got to improvise. Good tip, thanks for sharing.

 

[glhx]

I was able to get the sun gear bushings in no problem this time. They rotate smoothly. The sun gear seems like it’s rotating funny.

When I pressed the bushing in. I did see it flex a little. I didn’t have anything supporting the gear on the bottom side. Next time I will or I will remove the sun gear and press the bushings in. I’m hoping I didn’t warp it. I don’t think so. I can check run out.

On the other end.
I have pressed in 3 reaction shaft bushings into that housing. All went in smoothly. All 3 of them for the 999 compressed and put a high spot in the middle. The 904 didn’t do that and went in fine.

When I pressed the reaction shaft bushing out. I tried to put it on the race by itself. Even by itself it wouldn’t go on. It hit that ring and stopped.

I checked it before pressing it. It was loose and fine. What’s with this. Third one and the just get high spots in the middle.

This time even. It compressed so much it didn’t even want to clear the input shaft splines. I used the splines teeth to cut the bushing down until it at least cleared the splines.

Then I used them some more to see if I could at least cut that high spot. It never would cut it to the point it went in.

So I thought I’d try something. Pressing the bushing in further.
What it did. It made the high spot larger and compressed it even more.

It never bottomed out. It never had a huge amount of resistance going in.

These things are getting expensive because the shipping is like $7 for every purchase.

I even cut the driver down to make sure it went in smooth and cleared the housing.

I did put them in dry. But I put them all in dry. Lubing the outside of a bushing asking for it to spin the bushing.

I’m pretty stuck on this. I can go ahead and get ten more and keep trying. But I’m not really sure what’s up.

 

[glhx]

I checked a spare sun shell for the 904. It does spin more true than the one I’ve been messing with.

I might have warped both the 999 and 904.
I have a replacement for the 904.
So I just have to get a 999 low gear shell. Shouldn’t be too bad since it is shares with the 500 or those with the lower gear set. It just has that raised spot in the back

I hope if anyone who is learning reads this. Will see some of the lessons I’m passing along.

Don’t press the bushing out of the sun hear on the back side. Without something under it.
I could see it flex. But by then it was too late.

Did I mess it up? I’m not sure. I just know that the other spare shell I have spins more true and the bushings on it were never pressed out on that one.

Between broken cogs.
Warped shells
And compressed bushings.

The learning curve for pressing bushings. It’s definitely there. These parts when they are together. Perform well. Individually......they are kind of fragile and thin pressed metal or semi brittle cast when a load is put on them in a way that’s off of what they were designed for.

If I had to do it again....and I will. I would take the ring gear support off and press that individually.

And the sun shell. Either support the gear itself or remove it and press the bushings in.

No book is going to tell you stuff like this.

The good news is. I don’t have to press the new bushings out. I’m just gonna replace the shell And use the original sun hear. It’s just a guess that they are warped. Maybe they are and maybe they aren’t. I don’t know.

When they did flex. They came back to original position. However....as fast as this stuff spins. Stuff like that matters. I can see it going up and down some.

The spare shell doesn’t do that. Spins a lot more true

I did however lose
one of the parking pawl return springs in this whole mess.
And two trans pan bolts were missing already
As well as a transmission filter long bolt for the valve body. It only had two.

So I’m trying to source these individual parts

 

[Duane]

I checked a spare sun shell for the 904. It does spin more true than the one I’ve been messing with.

I might have warped both the 999 and 904.
I have a replacement for the 904.
So I just have to get a 999 low gear shell. Shouldn’t be too bad since it is shares with the 500 or those with the lower gear set. It just has that raised spot in the back

I hope if anyone who is learning reads this. Will see some of the lessons I’m passing along.

Don’t press the bushing out of the sun hear on the back side. Without something under it.
I could see it flex. But by then it was too late.

Did I mess it up? I’m not sure. I just know that the other spare shell I have spins more true and the bushings on it were never pressed out on that one.

Between broken cogs.
Warped shells
And compressed bushings.

The learning curve for pressing bushings. It’s definitely there. These parts when they are together. Perform well. Individually......they are kind of fragile and thin pressed metal or semi brittle cast when a load is put on them in a way that’s off of what they were designed for.

If I had to do it again....and I will. I would take the ring gear support off and press that individually.

And the sun shell. Either support the gear itself or remove it and press the bushings in.

No book is going to tell you stuff like this.

The good news is. I don’t have to press the new bushings out. I’m just gonna replace the shell And use the original sun hear. It’s just a guess that they are warped. Maybe they are and maybe they aren’t. I don’t know.

When they did flex. They came back to original position. However....as fast as this stuff spins. Stuff like that matters. I can see it going up and down some.

The spare shell doesn’t do that. Spins a lot more true

I did however lose
one of the parking pawl return springs in this whole mess.
And two trans pan bolts were missing already
As well as a transmission filter long bolt for the valve body. It only had two.

So I’m trying to source these individual parts

Terminology again. Did you remove the sunshell from the sun gear when you changed the bushings. You could easily bend the sunshell( the big diameter thing) if you don't remove it first. There are two snap rings under the sun gear that need to be removed before you change the bushings in the sun gear. You cannot press on the sunshell or you would distort it.

 

[glhx]

Where did I mess up the terminology that time?

I did distort the shell. I didn’t remove the sun gear before pressing in the bushings. It bent the shell some.

I had a spare 904 shell sitting here. It spun more true than the one I warped. That’s one way I knew it was warped. Had suspicion anyway but that confirmed it. So that one is now sitting in the 904 and it’s good to go. Took the gear with the new bushings and pressed them into the spare shell.

The 999 is warped. I have to replace that shell I’m pretty sure.
Those mistakes I can control and learn from.

The reaction shaft bushing.....I don’t know why that’s compressing so badly......
And compressing in the middle. Not the end like I would suspect. It’s literally mushrooming evenly in the middle of the bushing. Leaving a ring and not allowing the bushing to sit in the race....even loose it won’t

 

[Duane]

Where did I mess up the terminology that time?

I did distort the shell. I didn’t remove the sun gear before pressing in the bushings. It bent the shell some.

I had a spare 904 shell sitting here. It spun more true than the one I warped. That’s one way I knew it was warped. Had suspicion anyway but that confirmed it. So that one is now sitting in the 904 and it’s good to go. Took the gear with the new bushings and pressed them into the spare shell.

The 999 is warped. I have to replace that shell I’m pretty sure.
Those mistakes I can control and learn from.

The reaction shaft bushing.....I don’t know why that’s compressing so badly......
And compressing in the middle. Not the end like I would suspect. It’s literally mushrooming evenly in the middle of the bushing. Leaving a ring and not allowing the bushing to sit in the race....even loose it won’t

You should not have to press the sun gear into the sunshell.
Those parts should all just assemble freely by hand. Make sure you put the thrust plates and any spacers if any back in the right locations.

 

[Duane]

Where did I mess up the terminology that time?

I did distort the shell. I didn’t remove the sun gear before pressing in the bushings. It bent the shell some.

I had a spare 904 shell sitting here. It spun more true than the one I warped. That’s one way I knew it was warped. Had suspicion anyway but that confirmed it. So that one is now sitting in the 904 and it’s good to go. Took the gear with the new bushings and pressed them into the spare shell.

The 999 is warped. I have to replace that shell I’m pretty sure.
Those mistakes I can control and learn from.

The reaction shaft bushing.....I don’t know why that’s compressing so badly......
And compressing in the middle. Not the end like I would suspect. It’s literally mushrooming evenly in the middle of the bushing. Leaving a ring and not allowing the bushing to sit in the race....even loose it won’t

Perhaps you should be verifying the outside diameters with a vernier to make sure they are the correct size before trying to change them.

 

[glhx]

I didn’t press the sun gear in. Those went in with snap rings.

What I did was press bushings into the sun gear. Without taking the sun gear off of the shell.

Pretty sure it warped the shell
I’ll post a picture of what I did......and why it warped the shell. I think.

I’m going to get the next set of bushings from a different supplier.
If it doesn’t work. I’ll take it to a trans shop and have them do it. Maybe find out why the reaction shaft bushing is compressing so badly. It’s pretty far down in there so it’s hard to mess with