Issues with a rebuilt 360

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Owen Diaz
Simple test if you have that Edelbrock sitting around, set it on . . 4 mount bolts and a gas line.

Start it up in your garage as a test and see how nice it idles.

Now you can figure what you need to do next from here after the test.

Good Luck
 
Yea I’ve heard good things about those but right now I’m not really 100% sure if the carburetor is my issue and To be honest my next step after this is just to save up and go with either a Holley sniper efi system or a fitech efi system


Stop spending money and fix what you have. If the main body is on backwards, who knows what else is wrong in there.

If the idle is high, it’s getting air from somewhere.

You can take the carb apart, look at what you have and post it here. We can see if anything else is wrong and help you get it back together.
 
Stop spending money and fix what you have. If the main body is on backwards, who knows what else is wrong in there.

If the idle is high, it’s getting air from somewhere.

You can take the carb apart, look at what you have and post it here. We can see if anything else is wrong and help you get it back together.
I’m definitely going to flip the main body but the efi system was more of what I plan on doing in the future then now I know it’s getting air from somewhere but the only place I could see it maybe could be getting air from is the headers
 
And that wouldn’t really much sense to me cause all the bolts pretty tight and the gasket still looks to be in decent condition
 
Owen Diaz
Simple test if you have that Edelbrock sitting around, set it on . . 4 mount bolts and a gas line.

Start it up in your garage as a test and see how nice it idles.

Now you can figure what you need to do next from here after the test.

Good Luck
If I had it laying around trust me it would’ve been in my car
 
Why get him even more confused? On Holleys/Demons the idle mixture screws are on the sides of the metering blocks. Looks like this Demon has 4 of them. This is the least of his problems.

But yeah, the throttle-base plate is installed backwards on this "rebuilt" carb. Who knows what else is ***-backwards. I think I'd ask for a refund!

Looking at the pictures, I can see quite a few other issues For example, where is the transmission throttle-pressure (kickdown) linkage? Good luck getting it to shift correctly.
I was told when I bought the car six months ago it doesn’t have a kickdown linkage due to the reverse manual valve body
 
If you need a good carb rebuilder I highly recommend @Dana ! He did my thermoquad and did an amazing job with it. He is very reasonable , very fast. And he is a great guy! He answered my hundred questions.
 
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Consider what happens when the main body is installed backwards. The back throttles do not move when you step on the gas. So the low-speed is stalled at whatever the secondary cracking screw has been set to.
When you step on the gas, the front throttles open, but there are no transfer slots, and all the fuel would have to come from the way too big secondary MJs, and the 4-corner idle if you got such. Of course the MJs are not gonna flow until the airspeed gets up. That it idles at all is kindof a testament to the rebuilder, who, it seems, got the throttles set set pretty close,lol.

The 292 cam needs quite a bit of bypass-air, and you got it! by having the body on backwards, any adjustment of the curb-idle screw, is principally adjusting bypass air. After you get it assembled right, and the transfer slot exposure set to taller than wide. and the bypass-air figured out, you will be able to reduce your idle-speed by retarding the timing some.

As to timing;
You have several systems on line at any one time.
1) The principal one is the power-timing. This is usually set between 32 to 36* with it being all in by 3000 to 3600, depending. The better your combustion chamber, the less advance it needs.
2) next is; idle-timing. Guys like to set it between 16* to as much as 25* with a big cam and a hi-stall TC.
A for me,I let the transfer slot exposure determine it. I ran the 292/292/108 at 14/16.. The more you give it, the more you gotta close the throttles to keep the rpm down. And then the low-speed fueling takes a dump. The slower you idle it, while maintaining the exposure, the more wicked that cam will sound. I had a manual trans so could idle it anywhere I wanted to, just be playing with the idle-timing. That 292 would go down to 600 without too much bother. She was not keen to stay running at 550, nor was I interested in running it that slow, but she sounded pretty good down there.
3) next is rate of advance, controlled by the flyweights and springs.
These three together, control your WOT timing, and Idle-timing, and I call that your Base-Timing. At all other times, your timing will be dead wrong. So,
4) for Part Throttle timing, the Vacuum Advance brings it's tune to the party
5) and that just leaves your Cruise Timing. Depending on your cruise rpm, the timing will want to be between about 42 to 56 degrees. If you don't provide what she wants, the fuel economy will suffer. With the right timing, you can take fuel out. which is a big deal with the 292.Cuz it will suck gas big-time, until you get it figured out. But Ima thinking that if you cared about fuel consumption,you would not have installed a 292 cam,lol.
Good luck
 
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If you have vacuum advance hooked up on backwards base plate? Maybe don’t know but get carb straightened out and start over from beginning. Check everything. It worked before right
 
after all that you have to limit your mechanical advance if you advance your initial timing
run it hard with too much total timing and bad things happen
after you get the carb fixed rev it up with a dial back timing light and report results
 
after all that you have to limit your mechanical advance if you advance your initial timing
run it hard with too much total timing and bad things happen
after you get the carb fixed rev it up with a dial back timing light and report results
I tacked vacuum advance in dist.
after all that you have to limit your mechanical advance if you advance your initial timing
run it hard with too much total timing and bad things happen
after you get the carb fixed rev it up with a dial back timing light and report results
found that out the hard way cost me a set of x heads cracked every cyl. Between intake valve and spark plug hole no coolant leak which surprised me.
 
Diaz.. did the radiator correct the overheating issue you were posting about in the other section?
 
That carb could easily be diassembled, parts verified they’re in the correct location, and reassembled in less than 10 mins.

Most of those Demon carbs with 4 corner idle have the idle circuitry set up “square”.
Same size ifr and bleeds front and rear.
The only real difference in the metering block on the Speed Demon is the primary block has a PV provision.

The main body is reversed on the baseplate, and the bowls are on the “wrong” end(only matters for fuel lines).
You won’t know about the metering blocks until you pull the bowls off.

If it’s one of the later produced units, it will have the “idle eze” feature in the baseplate.

If there are no restrictors in the idle air bleed holes, but there is just a hole drilled into the main body, you’re probably going to have a hard time getting a decent idle out of it with the current cam until the air bleed sizing is reduced.
We used to sell those carbs...... they’re not very friendly at low speeds with “bigger” cams.

I got to where I just modified them for screw in air bleeds right off the bat.
 
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Alright so I finally have time to work on it got the carb out and the fuel bowls out what should my next step be?
 
If you have both bowls and metering blocks off, remove the screws that hold the base plate to the main body, and turn the main body so the choke horn is facing the front of the car. Or, IOW’s, you want the choke horn facing the left hand side if you are looking at the carb with the throttle linkage in front of you.

Then just bolt it back together.
 
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