Issues with a rebuilt 360

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yellow rose said:
If you have both bowls and metering blocks off, remove the screws that hold the base plate to the main body, and turn the main body so the choke horn is facing the front of the car. Or, IOW’s, you want the choke horn facing the left hand side if you are looking at the carb with the throttle linkage in front of you.

Then just bolt it back together.
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image.jpg
So I removed the base plate and installed it 180 just want to make sure it’s on the right way before I finish putting it back together
 
This is the secondary(rear)metering block...... no power valve.
That is the std Speed Demon emulsion pack in the block.
It generally works just fine if the air bleed sizing is correct(which is often not the case for the “bigger cam” combos).

The bowls should be installed so the fuel inlets are on the passenger side.
Iirc, there is a “P” and an “S” cast into them somewhere, although I don’t remember if they all had that.

AE619015-42A6-4E67-82F6-355FE23DF8EF.png


Edit...... I see what look like swirl marks from an abrasive “cookie” being used on the metering block.
Hopefully if that was done, it was done with extreme caution.
Abarasive materials and carburetors are generally not a good match.
 
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PRH said:
This is the secondary(rear)metering block...... no power valve.
That is the std Speed Demon emulsion pack in the block.
It generally works just fine if the air bleed sizing is correct(which is often not the case for the “bigger cam” combos).

The bowls should be installed so the fuel inlets are on the passenger side.
Iirc, there is a “P” and an “S” cast into them somewhere, although I don’t remember if they all had that.

View attachment 1715591420

Edit...... I see what look like swirl marks from an abrasive “cookie” being used on the metering block.
Hopefully if that was done, it was done with extreme caution.
Abarasive materials and carburetors are generally not a good match.
Click to expand...
The reason why I never updated this again that day Was btw I’ll post pictures later but apparently the guy I recently gave my carburetor to broke two of the helicoils in the fuel bowl and the machine shop by me couldn’t really do much with it since according to them it’s special made and I can only get it from the manufacturer but when I called Demon they told me they don’t sell those so now I’m stuck looking for a new carburetor if any of you guys have any opinions on what would be a good carb please feel free
Holley 4150 Double Pumper Carburetors 0-4779S
Even tho the demon I had is almost the same besides this one having a choke was thinking about getting this Holley from what I’ve read on this forum it’s a very recommended brand
Edit: just to add on I saw the heli coil was messed up when I tried threading it in without the fuel bowls even on and it didn’t wanna go in then I looked and saw that one was both were pushed in a good amount
 
If you’re talking about the screw holes in the main body for the screws to attach the bowl, they’re 12-24 thread.
There are hemi-coil kits for that thread.

The early Demons didn’t have heli-coils there, and since the bowl screws were really “too short”, they stripped out easily.
I have seen bodies that were repaired using 1/4-20 and 1/4-28 inserts, and then use new hardware to match.

There must have been plenty of complaints about the stripped holes, since they started coming with heli-coils installed at some point.
 
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PRH said:
If you’re talking about the screw holes in the main body for the screws to attach the bowl, they’re 12-24 thread.
There are hemi-coil kits for that thread.

The early Demons didn’t have hemi-coils there, and since the bowl screws were really “too short”, they stripped out easily.
I have seen bodies that were repaired using 1/4-20 and 1/4-28 inserts, and then use new hardware to match.

There must have been plenty of complaints about the stripped holes, since they started coming with heli-coils installed at some point.
Click to expand...
The machine shop I went to had heli coil kits for that thread the only problem was the diameter was too small for the bolt
 
I will try another machine shop out of town this weekend that I’ve heard good reviews about to see if they can help me in anyway with that but if that doesn’t work I’ll probably be looking at buying a brand new carburetor
 
Owen Diaz said:
The machine shop I went to had heli coil kits for that thread the only problem was the diameter was too small for the bolt
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If the bowl screws weren’t 12-24, then they had been swapped already(from the body being stripped previously?)

I was thinking about the carb issue you’re having and thought of something that was discussed in another thread.
The base gaskets aren’t necessarily exactly the same for a Demon and a Holley.
This thread, posts 555 thru 566 explain it with pics.
Might be an issue on your carb, might not.
Holley/Demon Carb stumble
 
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Owen Diaz said:
The reason why I never updated this again that day Was btw I’ll post pictures later but apparently the guy I recently gave my carburetor to broke two of the helicoils in the fuel bowl and the machine shop by me couldn’t really do much with it since according to them it’s special made and I can only get it from the manufacturer but when I called Demon they told me they don’t sell those so now I’m stuck looking for a new carburetor if any of you guys have any opinions on what would be a good carb please feel free
Holley 4150 Double Pumper Carburetors 0-4779S
Even tho the demon I had is almost the same besides this one having a choke was thinking about getting this Holley from what I’ve read on this forum it’s a very recommended brand
Edit: just to add on I saw the heli coil was messed up when I tried threading it in without the fuel bowls even on and it didn’t wanna go in then I looked and saw that one was both were pushed in a good amount
Click to expand...
If you have to go new carburetor route I would recommend an Edelbrock from the AVS 2 line or something else that has annular boosters.
 
I just noticed you stated the cam is a MP 292 cam?

That’s a pretty big cam in a 360.
You will want a carb with 4 corner idle.
Nothing from Edelbrock would be on my list of recommendations for that combo.
Even the Speed Demon, which has 4 corner idle isn’t a good match for a cam that size(it’s listed for use with cams up to [email protected], and that cam is like [email protected]).

I’d be looking at a Holley Brawler 750.

As for the timing........ you’ll want to run plenty of initial timing.
20*......at least.

The issue will be, you’ll need to have the amount of advance within the distributor limited, so the total timing doesn’t go too high when you’re at 20-ish initial.

Depending on exactly what the distributor is, it’s either an easy adjustment....... or something requiring surgery.
 
PRH said:
I just noticed you stated the cam is a MP 292 cam?

That’s a pretty big cam in a 360.
You will want a carb with 4 corner idle.
Nothing from Edelbrock would be on my list of recommendations for that combo.
Even the Speed Demon, which has 4 corner idle isn’t a good match for a cam that size(it’s listed for use with cams up to [email protected], and that cam is like [email protected]).

I’d be looking at a Holley Brawler 750.

As for the timing........ you’ll want to run plenty of initial timing.
20*......at least.

The issue will be, you’ll need to have the amount of advance within the distributor limited, so the total timing doesn’t go too high when you’re at 20-ish initial.

Depending on exactly what the distributor is, it’s either an easy adjustment....... or something requiring surgery.
Click to expand...
I have an msd distributor intial timing is pretty easy but I’m not sure about the Total timing I was told it’s where your timing is when your at about 3000 rpms but what I don’t get is how do you adjust total timing without touching initial timing if your adjusting both through the distributor
 
With the MSD distributor, change the bushing to the biggest one, and use one light, and one medium spring.
That will get you in the ball park.

Then set the total timing(at whatever rpm it takes for the timing to be maxed out) at 36*.
After you have the distributor tightened down, rev the motor up pretty high and make sure what you think is the total, is really the total.

The initial should end up close to 20* like that.
 
you limit the mechanical advance inside the distributor so initial plus mechanical don't exceed the total you want. mechanical advance is what you can feel if you take the cap off and turn the rotor arm, it has some spring resistance when turning by hand. it's done when the motor is running by centrifugal force with internal weights pushing out against the spring pressure that you felt turning the rotor arm.
so basically you have to limit how far the rotor can turn.
neil.
 
I don’t know what the rest of the car combo is like, but that cam is going to want to be paired with a fair amount of stall and gear.
 
PRH said:
I don’t know what the rest of the car combo is like, but that cam is going to want to be paired with a fair amount of stall and gear.
Click to expand...
It’s a it has the MP 292 cam as you said with a 3800 stall converter,Keith black flattop pistons, eagle rods, .40 over And reverse manual valve body with a cheetah shifter
 
Owen Diaz said:
I have an msd distributor intial timing is pretty easy but I’m not sure about the Total timing I was told it’s where your timing is when your at about 3000 rpms but what I don’t get is how do you adjust total timing without touching initial timing if your adjusting both through the distributor
Click to expand...
Do
Don’t understand 292 cam but I have a 540/560/326 duration flat tappet cam 750 quick fuel by Holley 4 corner idle tacked vacuum advance in distributor run 20 degrees on crank 18 degrees degrees of mechanical advance in distributor works and runs fine burns tires no prob. Can smash it to floor at any rpm and it just lights up. Also in a 360
 
Ahoey said:
Do
Don’t understand 292 cam but I have a 540/560/326 duration flat tappet cam 750 quick fuel by Holley 4 corner idle tacked vacuum advance in distributor run 20 degrees on crank 18 degrees degrees of mechanical advance in distributor works and runs fine burns tires no prob. Can smash it to floor at any rpm and it just lights up. Also in a 360
Click to expand...
Ahoey said:
Do
Don’t understand 292 cam but I have a 540/560/326 duration flat tappet cam 750 quick fuel by Holley 4 corner idle tacked vacuum advance in distributor run 20 degrees on crank 18 degrees degrees of mechanical advance in distributor works and runs fine burns tires no prob. Can smash it to floor at any rpm and it just lights up. Also in a 360
Click to expand...
Also 3500 B+M Holeshot converter
 
Ahoey said:
Do
Don’t understand 292 cam but I have a 540/560/326 duration flat tappet cam 750 quick fuel by Holley 4 corner idle tacked vacuum advance in distributor run 20 degrees on crank 18 degrees degrees of mechanical advance in distributor works and runs fine burns tires no prob. Can smash it to floor at any rpm and it just lights up. Also in a 360
Click to expand...
Do you have a link or part number for that carb you have?
 
PRH said:
I just noticed you stated the cam is a MP 292 cam?

That’s a pretty big cam in a 360.
You will want a carb with 4 corner idle.
Nothing from Edelbrock would be on my list of recommendations for that combo.
Even the Speed Demon, which has 4 corner idle isn’t a good match for a cam that size(it’s listed for use with cams up to [email protected], and that cam is like [email protected]).

I’d be looking at a Holley Brawler 750.

As for the timing........ you’ll want to run plenty of initial timing.
20*......at least.

The issue will be, you’ll need to have the amount of advance within the distributor limited, so the total timing doesn’t go too high when you’re at 20-ish initial.

Depending on exactly what the distributor is, it’s either an easy adjustment....... or something requiring surgery.
Click to expand...
Would this be good or should I get the something from the “brawler race” category
Brawler BR-67213 750 CFM Brawler Street Carburetor Mechanical Secondary
The car is only gonna be driven on the street
 
I think the major difference between street and race is the choke. For the street, I would run the choke, but that's me. You can get away without it, but it will be a touchier on warmup.
 
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