Jeff's 727 rebuild thread

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I wouldn't have minded taking it out...and back in....and back out....and back in again, if it had worked.....
I just can't spend the rest of my life doing this.....so much work and so frustrating.

Jeff
 
I wouldn't have minded taking it out...and back in....and back out....and back in again, if it had worked.....
I just can't spend the rest of my life doing this.....so much work and so frustrating.

Jeff
Let me say this, Jeff. Taking it to a shop is not being a quitter. In fact, for as little as you will ever be rebuilding transmissions, it makes perfectly good sense to turn it over to professionals. It was a great (though seems bad) experience, and you have more knowledge now than ever about transmissions. If you decide to pull it and try it one more time, great. If you take it to the shop, great. I applaud you for your efforts either way.
 
I understand your frustrations completely, but if I may, I would suggest holding off bringing it to a shop for a day or two while you reflect on how far you've come already. A shop will come to the same conclusions you have already; the clutch packs are working, the pump system is working, so the problem is likely in the governor assembly or the valve body. They will pressure test the circuits that have ports on the outside of the trans, and they will decide it's not worth their time to fuss with modified parts. They will have you pay to either swap in a test valve body or test governor assembly, with no guarantee on the outcome due to the nature of the modifications.
So, if you have access to a pressure gauge that will fit the ports and read high enough you should try this yourself. If not, I personally would get another valve body from a different transmission, clean it up, and try it. I know I am suggesting throwing parts at it, but it certainly has to be valve body or governor. I vote valve body since it likely had two different shift kit modifications applied to it causing unknown fluid circuit problems, as KickDown eluded to and was trying to reason out previously. Don't forget, the governor worked before you had it out; it used to shift. What really changed was the shift kit modifications.
 
I understand your frustrations completely, but if I may, I would suggest holding off bringing it to a shop for a day or two while you reflect on how far you've come already. A shop will come to the same conclusions you have already; the clutch packs are working, the pump system is working, so the problem is likely in the governor assembly or the valve body. They will pressure test the circuits that have ports on the outside of the trans, and they will decide it's not worth their time to fuss with modified parts. They will have you pay to either swap in a test valve body or test governor assembly, with no guarantee on the outcome due to the nature of the modifications.
So, if you have access to a pressure gauge that will fit the ports and read high enough you should try this yourself. If not, I personally would get another valve body from a different transmission, clean it up, and try it. I know I am suggesting throwing parts at it, but it certainly has to be valve body or governor. I vote valve body since it likely had two different shift kit modifications applied to it causing unknown fluid circuit problems, as KickDown eluded to and was trying to reason out previously. Don't forget, the governor worked before you had it out; it used to shift. What really changed was the shift kit modifications.

Well....i have to agree....that makes sense.

I bought a pressure gauge. ...although i don't know what to do with it...lol.

If it was the valve body, and i suspect it is, i could just flat out buy a new valve body and plug it in.

I've Googled them and all the high performance units are full manual. ....
Does anyone sell a plug and play valve body, with a "shift kit" already installed for less than $500 that's not full manual?

It can't be the governor. ....I went through it very carefully. ...and there's not really much to it in the first place. .....

I'm just stunned that this is happening. ....makes no sense. ..

Jeff
 
72 inch pounds, then backed off 2 turns
I dont mean to offend or imply anything negative, but you did torque them to 72 inch pounds, not foot pounds right and then back off and torque the jam nut? If you dont hold the inner adjuster with a wrench while tightening the jam nut, the jam nut will drag the adjuster along with it causing too tight of an adjustment.

The forward band is so easy to adjust..... I personally would try backing it off another 1/2 turn.

I too agree, most shops wont do anything that you cant and likely wont want to mess with a trans modified by someone other than them.

If the simple band tweak doesnt work try changing the valve body. I have a couple of known good stock ones that I would send you to try if you want to experiment.
 
You guys inspire me to keep trying....but damn, I've been messing with this thing for 3 months. ....
It's breaking my freakin back.....lol

Jeff
 
I dont mean to offend or imply anything negative, but you did torque them to 72 inch pounds, not foot pounds right and then back off and torque the jam nut? If you dont hold the inner adjuster with a wrench while tightening the jam nut, the jam nut will drag the adjuster along with it causing too tight of an adjustment.

The forward band is so easy to adjust..... I personally would try backing it off another 1/2 turn.

I too agree, most shops wont do anything that you cant and likely wont want to mess with a trans modified by someone other than them.

If the simple band tweak doesnt work try changing the valve body. I have a couple of known good stock ones that I would send you to try if you want to experiment.
Yes....definitely inch pounds. ...not foot pounds.....
I will absolutely re-adjust the front band and go 2.5 turns off of 72 inch lbs.

Jeff
 
awesome thread I have seen a lot of strange things happen with shift kits and the instructions are not great with most of them. I'm with Bobzilla I would get a known good valve body and try it or take the vb to someone who is good with them . good luck .
 
awesome thread I have seen a lot of strange things happen with shift kits and the instructions are not great with most of them. I'm with Bobzilla I would get a known good valve body and try it or take the vb to someone who is good with them . good luck .
It's GOTTA be in the valve body. ...the logic controlling the shifts in wrong in some manner. ..

Jeff
 
I recall you mentioning it previously had some sort of shift kit in it, but so many pages ago to look back to see exactly what type.. I wonder if it may have been a B&M, or similar where the separator plate is replaced along with whatever else is done to the actual VB casting (minimal as I recall with the B&M) That plate was gold cad colored. I know the oem is just plain steel. You recall what that plate color was?? Grasping at straws I'm sure but....
 
I recall you mentioning it previously had some sort of shift kit in it, but so many pages ago to look back to see exactly what type.. I wonder if it may have been a B&M, or similar where the separator plate is replaced along with whatever else is done to the actual VB casting (minimal as I recall with the B&M) That plate was gold cad colored. I know the oem is just plain steel. You recall what that plate color was?? Grasping at straws I'm sure but....
Yes....gold colored seporater plate...most likely a B&M.....
I think a fresh built professional valve body might be the ticket. ...
It seems so simple until something like this happens. ....
The car is drivable but "drivable" isnt my goal.....

Jeff
 
Thanks guys.....i was ready to throw rocks at it a while ago.....
There's an answer and something to learn in this.....

Jeff
 
Why not, if you decide to pull things apart, just drop the valve body, disassemble it, thoroughly go over it, inspect everything, have a look at that plate, compare it to the Transgo shift kit instuctions, I think theres a picture of a separator plate on one of the pages if I recall correctly? And if a new valve body is what you settle on, I wouldn't rule out trying to source an nos or good unmolested one, or maybe someone here can hook you up, and just transferring the Transgo pieces to the new one. Just another cost efficient option to consider if it isn't something else entirely.
 
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