They are a pretty tight interference fit, heat the aluminum bore boss from the backside until it starts to get shiny and pack the alternator shaft in dry ice to avoid too much hammering. It should nearly slide together.
March performance vs cvf pulleys on 340
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71DodgeDemon340
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Does the case have to be separated? Or was that just for the pulley the member was trying to use in the thread you linked?
71DodgeDemon340
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Also is there any downside to the power steering being under driven? If i replaced the crank pulley it would be 6-1/2 and the power steering would be a 7
Not that I’m aware of, but I’m no expert at the subject. I prefer the archaic high effort variety of steering.
The only reason the case was separated was so the pulley could be put back in by using a press while pushing down directly on the rear of the armature shaft. As mentioned just use heat and cold to reinstall the new one so you aren’t putting any undue shock or pressure on the rear case bearing. Use a split bearing puller or a press and plates to remove original pulley.
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71DodgeDemon340
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thanks for the advise, would i need to mark the old pulley as far as distance from the case to pulley edge and install the new one in the same position or will it stop at a certain point? Also to heat the center of the pulley just use a handheld lighter torch right? Also i wonder if i could use the freeze spray you use for warts on the shaft instead of trying to freeze the whole alternator or trying to use dry ice. How much tapping should it involve with a hammer? I know i should only have to lightly tap it with a dead blow hammer but can it be hit too hard. Sorry for all the questions, easier to ask before i assume and damage a alternator.
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Sorry about the late reply, I had to have some “time out” after getting involved in a debate about a 5.2 Magnum matching the performance level of a 340, lol!
Never hurts to measure two or three times and record/mark the position instead of finding out later it doesn’t have a pulley stop register. Actually get a can of computer cleaner or some sprayable Freon and put on a warm glove and invert the can and use it to freeze the shaft. It will cool to near -300 degree dry ice temps, too. Propane torch is best. Be careful and heat hot and fast, keep it moving. Shiny from heat is the point right before the surface starts to oxidize.
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
thank you. Hopefully with it cold enough i shouldnt have to heat it much.
still not sure if im going to do just the alternator pulley, or the alternator pulley and water pump pulley, or just get the set and do the crank, water pump and alt and be done
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If you can get a direct 1:1 ratio water pump drive then, yeah, I would plan on doing the whole set and getting water pump and crank pulley shims. Your probably going to have to adjust everything anyway and you’ll probably be wondering why you didn’t just go ahead and change everything since you’re into it that far anyway.
71DodgeDemon340
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yeah thats what i was thinking, march has a kit that has a 6-1/2 crank, 6-1/2 water pump and 2-3/4 alt. The only thing that would be under driven would be the power steering pump. So what would be the best way to shim? Naturally everything starts with the crank so that would be first to install then line up the water pump pulley next then the alt pulley? My only concern is with the crank being a double groove how do you line it up with the water pump? I have a laser tool at work we use for serpentine belts to check alignment may snag it one day and see if it will sit on the v groove pulleys
Usually put the crank on with no shims unless the kit specifically says to use a shim or spacers and then see if everything can be adjusted in around it. I like 3/32 gas welding rod to bend around and check pulley to puller for checking alignment.
Just to chime in here, propane works without a doubt. But I much prefer using an oven. We have one just for parts, but with a nice clean pulley you'd be safe using your house oven.
It's much easier to control how hot you get it, and you're not juggling heating the pulley and trying to freeze the shaft (dry ice is the best for that, you won't get much below 0 even though the ice is -100, but you don't need to heat the pulley as much)
It's much easier to control how hot you get it, and you're not juggling heating the pulley and trying to freeze the shaft (dry ice is the best for that, you won't get much below 0 even though the ice is -100, but you don't need to heat the pulley as much)
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Water pump drive shims are readily available. You can hone out the pulley you take off of you alternator to a slip fit to use it to mark the best position for your replacement pulley. In extreme cases you can get a mr gasket spacer tube set for the alternator, but I look for other solutions before fighting with that unless it’s a scratch built ground up drive setup. The less possible shimming and manipulation you have to do the easier it is to keep everything running true.
Summit Racing® Water Pump Pulley Shims SUM-310121
Summit Racing® Water Pump Pulley Shims SUM-310121
71DodgeDemon340
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will these fit the chrysler water pump?
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
Will i notice any ill affects from the power steering pump being slightly under driven?
Before you pull the old pulley measure from a flat spot on the case to the center of the grooves. Then press on the new pulley until you get the same. Easy as ....but if you want it perfect so as to match the new pulleys you need to measure the pulleys with strait edges and from flats to the center of the v-grooves (the center of the v-grooves from the mounting flats of billet pulleys may be different than that of oem steel)
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
i figured on starting with the crank pulley and then adjust the water pump pulley then do the alt pulley last
Yes, water pump pulleys have two different bolt patterns using two sets of holes, it's a standardized SAE deal on most of our stuff. The suggestion to measure back to a known position is excellent, too. A framing square is a handy tool here, too. Hang it over the pulleys and measure back to an available flat spot and record the readings. I would be inclined to do a rough in assembly with two bolts on the crank and water pump pulleys and assembling as the instructions dictate. Then measure everything the same way again and do the +/- math to see what has the most difference on alignment and what needs to go where. One problem that comes up the most often in my own experience is the water pump pulley not being deep enough to reach the rest of the pulleys having to shimmed or spaced out to meet the water pump groove. It's the real deal breaker about doing it any certain set way so before and after measurements are going to be your best friend.
Oh, that is one sharp looking ride, BTW. Which side of Tn are you on?
71DodgeDemon340
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71DodgeDemon340
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What about the crank shim kit? Id probably get one just in case. Anything i need to look for with a crank shim kit?
The brand X guys have it a lot better in that department but thankfully Mancini Racing still manufactures a few. More spacers than shims but at least it's something...
Mancini Racing Crankshaft Pulley Spacer
Mancini Racing Crankshaft Pulley Spacer
71DodgeDemon340
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thanks for the info! I found that too. I guess ill try the crank without the spacer first, i will probably go ahead and get the shims for the water pump pulley when i order the other pulleys and hopefully wont need one for the crank
71DodgeDemon340
Well-Known Member
I almost thought i couldnt use the 6-1/2 crank/water pump set from march as i thought i may have a fluid damper, dug a little more and after looking at mine and finding mine on summit it is not a fluid damper. So that kit should work for me, i did notice that my water pump pulley is in further than the groove on the crank, not much but maybe 1/16”. With the outer groove on the crank 7” in diameter the water pump pulley couldnt come forward much as it would interfere with the outer groove on the crank. So the 6-1/2 crank may free up some more room for the waterpump pulley to come out a little. I get paid wednesday so hopefully i can get the parts ordered. I think im going to buy them from summit, about $30 cheaper than from march.
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