more idler arm problems...

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grassy

grassy

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I am missing my idler arm bolt and a washer (?)

The bolt that I was going to use fit the hole perfectly but too small for the barrel of the arm. I have tried installing a washer but the arm just flops around when installed.

The service manual doesn't show a washer.

What am I doing wrong ?

Another quick question....when installing the front brake roter, you are supposed to tighten the nut up to 240-300 pounds then back it off to hand tight. The book talks about another washer then the nut cover then a cotter pin.

My torque wrench will go nowhere near 240 ft pounds.

Any help is appreciated.

ian.
 
What you working on?

Sounds like you got the wrong idler arm,, take it and the bolt back to the parts store.

That's likely 250-300 INCH lbs. - just snug it.

The outer bearing cone goes on, then a washer, usually keyed, then nut, castle, cotter pin.
 
Probably you are missing the center steel tube that goes inside the idler arm.
Use Google "Images" to see all the parts like this [ame="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1016&bih=628&q=dodge+dart+idler+arm&oq=dodge+dart+idler+arm&gs_l=img.12...3188.9735.0.11625.20.11.0.9.2.0.156.1327.3j8.11.0...0.0...1ac.1.11.img.sNXmDh2CpVE"]dodge dart idler arm - Google Search[/ame]

On the rotors you have the bearing the washer the nut and then the lock cap for the cotter pin.
I spin the rotor while tightening the nut with a pair of pliers till I can't get it any tighter and then back it off to the first cotter pin hole that lines up.
There's NO WAY it should be tighter than this.
I'm talking tightening it with the pliers sticking straight out from the hub.
 
ya there was a thread a couple days ago about a guy that over tightened the spindle nuts and it smoked the bearings and welded them to the spindle. i bottom them out by hand. then give them just enough turn to get the cotter pin lined up with the retainer clip.
 
Sorry, a '75 Duster.

The outer bearing cone goes on, then a washer, usually keyed, then nut, castle, cotter pin.

I spin the rotor while tightening the nut with a pair of pliers till I can't get it any tighter and then back it off to the first cotter pin hole that lines up.

That makes much more sense. Thank-you.

Unfortunately, I took off the idler arm. A tube ? Damn. that actually would work..makes sense. I took this stuff apart far too long ago. I shall go searching again.

Thanks all
ian.
 
OK. Nothing in any of the containers that I saved all the nut/blts and anthing else that looked savable.

Here is a picture of both sides.

_IGP8090-L.jpg


_IGP8089-L.jpg



It looks like it has a sleeve in it already. The larger opening is at the top but the hole in the k frame is smaller.

I am puzzled.

Ian.
 
grassy said:
OK. Nothing in any of the containers that I saved all the nut/blts and anthing else that looked savable.

Here is a picture of both sides.

It looks like it has a sleeve in it already. The larger opening is at the top but the hole in the k frame is smaller.

I am puzzled.

Ian.
Click to expand...

What brand is that? I did come with the new bolt and hardware kit, didn't it? If so how does the bolt fit the part?

72BBSwinger said:
Get a genuine Spicer idler arm.
Click to expand...

It is Spicer now unless you can find a vintage in the USA Moog. The new China made Moog is crap now.
 
Oklacarcollecto

What brand is that? I did come with the new bolt and hardware kit, didn't it? If so how does the bolt fit the part?

That is what has be stumped. I took this off the car myself. Every bolt, etc I took off the front suspension I seem to have except for the bolt and what ever else I need to install this. Due to my budget limitations, I would rather re use this part if possible but I thik if I bought a new one from UAP, the bolts, etc wouldn't come with the new part anyway..

How can I go forward with this ?

Ian
 
Moog comes with all these parts is why I asked. You can see the bolt appears to be smaller on the threaded end. I don't know that they are but that would solve your problem if it was, wouldn't it?
 

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Crud. I know. From the States, delivery may 15th.

UAP doesn't stock the part.

I will keep looking.

Can I tighten up everything else and get the suspension ready for installation ? .. then put it in later ?

Thanks
ian.
 

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My bad..I thought it was the same thing. Bad day..and I am really glad you saw that.

ian.
 
grassy said:
My bad..I thought it was the same thing. Bad day..and I am really glad you saw that.

ian.
Click to expand...

I am pretty well up on the Moog numbers that fit our A-bodies. I have picked up all mine off eBay by buying vintage NOS Moog parts.

You need a Moog K7086 but keep in mind the new ones are crap. Look for the old boxes like is in the link I listed because those were good parts.
 
I am leaning to the one in the 'states.

Amy I able to finish installation of the front suspension including torquing to the proper amounts and installing this later when it arrives ?

Thanks
ian.
 
grassy said:
I am leaning to the one in the 'states.

Amy I able to finish installation of the front suspension including torquing to the proper amounts and installing this later when it arrives ?

Thanks
ian.
Click to expand...

Yes. To make it easy I would put the one you have loosely in place just to have things easier to work with.
 
Thank-you.

I guess this is part of the restoration gig :)

I had the son wire brushing and painting today. I think I can actually see is running before end of summer but I don't want to jinx ourselves.

ian.
 
grassy said:
Thank-you.

I guess this is part of the restoration gig :)
Click to expand...

You're welcome.

Yes, it is.

All the import suspension parts that aren't the quality they used to be doesn't make it any easier. One member went through 3 pitman arms that were all the China Moog and everyone was machined different on the splines. Another member recently posted a set of lower ball joints made by China Moog and they left gaps where they bolted up to the spindles. He bought a set of USA made Moogs and they fit perfect.
 
Ouch.

I am still new to this so your help is appreciated.

On to the next thing...finding c-clip for the torsion bars :)

Ian :)
 
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