yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I love the idea of the hole but .250 is WAY too big.
An .0625 hole is plenty, and something around .040ish is ok too.
A .250 hole is BIG!
Edit: I had to LOL when you called a .250 hole a piss hole. That's a classic.
My 422 smallblock build
- Thread starter SSG_Karg
- Start date
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I love the idea of the hole but .250 is WAY too big.
An .0625 hole is plenty, and something around .040ish is ok too.
A .250 hole is BIG!
Edit: I had to LOL when you called a .250 hole a piss hole. That's a classic.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
That’s what I’m afraid of, blocking the #1 main feed with a pipe plug that is too long. The cup plug that I got is a little shorter than the threaded pipe plug but either would block the main feed a whisker. I’m probably splitting hairs here but I want maximum oil flow. I’ll probably end up milling the pipe plug down a hair and calling it good.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
No no no, the pipe plug in the end of the oil galley will get a .040” pisshole. The cam plate will get the .250” hole so there will be plenty of clearance for the oil stream.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
In the mean time, I test fit the oil pump and pickup and measured clearance from the pickup to the bottom of the pan. Looks like 1/4” without oil pan gasket, so probably like 3/8” with gasket. I’m happy with that. I’m using a Melling M-72HV oil pump that I massaged and smoothed the passages on. The pan and pickup are from Moroso. PN 20710.
Had to use a factory main cap bolt under the pump body.
Had to use a factory main cap bolt under the pump body.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
Take a ball of aluminum foil and tape it to the bottom side of your oil pickup then put the pan on with the gasket. The inside of the pan will flatten the foil ball and you will know what the gap is from the bottom of the pickup to inside surface of the pan. Or can use modeling clay.
You mean the oil feed to the bearing correct.
Perhaps I’m reading it wrong.
Love the pictures, nice and close. I know this is going to help someone out a real lot.
Perhaps I’m reading it wrong.
Love the pictures, nice and close. I know this is going to help someone out a real lot.
Did you offset your rear main seal or put it squared with the block.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Yes, I don’t want to block the oil feed that goes from the main galley down to #1 main. I will have to shorten the pipe plug so it won’t protrude into that little passage.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Haven’t installed it yet but I will offset it. I seem to have good luck doing it like that in the past.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
I shortened the pipe plug to .285” so I would not protrude into the oil passage leading to the #1 main. Drilled a .0625” hole in the center of the pipe plug to oil the timing chain with a steady stream of oil. Drilled a .250” hole in the cam retention plate to allow the oil stream to get through.
Did you open up the oil passage to the main?
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Yes. All passages from the main oil galley to the crank were drilled out to 5/16” as per the Guitar Jones thread.
j par
Well-hung Member
I use silly puddy for clearance checking, but I'm silly that way...
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Today I will begin file fitting the piston rings.
I’ll be using my trusty Proform manual ring filer. Rings are from Total Seal.
I’ll be using my trusty Proform manual ring filer. Rings are from Total Seal.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Pistons are forged pieces from RaceTec. Rods are H-beam type from Callies. Specs for each in pics.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Krooser is getting Race Tec for his 379 Dirt track build- they are to ship next week- yours look good
Long valves on W2's with .600 lift?
anyone with comments on springs, bead vs square locks, etc post em up
Thanks
back to your regularly scheduled thread
I drill exactly the same way but usually around a .040
as much to bleed air and foam as to oil the chain
I drill to 9/32 usually, long drill and dry
nice comments and attention to detail
Long valves on W2's with .600 lift?
anyone with comments on springs, bead vs square locks, etc post em up
Thanks
back to your regularly scheduled thread
I drill exactly the same way but usually around a .040
as much to bleed air and foam as to oil the chain
I drill to 9/32 usually, long drill and dry
nice comments and attention to detail
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Progress has been slow lately.
Got all rings gapped and installed on pistons. Top ring gap is set at .021 and second ring is at .022 in anticipation of up to a 150hp shot of the giggle gas. These numbers were supplied by Total Seal in their instructions.
Now I’m waiting on a 1/4”x6” drill bit to come from the Amazon gods. I was eyeballing the cam bearings the other day and noticed that the #4 bearing is clocked a whisker. I’ll run the bit down through the oil passage to true up the holes and de-burr accordingly.
Also, I am in search of the tool that is used for drilling a small hole in the galley tube in each lifter bore. I have heard that Chrysler sold this at one time but I’ll be damned if I can find it. If anyone knows where to get one let me know before I commence to making something. I had originally planned to run a SFT lifter but I’m beginning to lean towards a solid roller. Either way I think a small (.030”ish) hole in each lifter bore would be beneficial, especially in a street car such as this.
Got all rings gapped and installed on pistons. Top ring gap is set at .021 and second ring is at .022 in anticipation of up to a 150hp shot of the giggle gas. These numbers were supplied by Total Seal in their instructions.
Now I’m waiting on a 1/4”x6” drill bit to come from the Amazon gods. I was eyeballing the cam bearings the other day and noticed that the #4 bearing is clocked a whisker. I’ll run the bit down through the oil passage to true up the holes and de-burr accordingly.
Also, I am in search of the tool that is used for drilling a small hole in the galley tube in each lifter bore. I have heard that Chrysler sold this at one time but I’ll be damned if I can find it. If anyone knows where to get one let me know before I commence to making something. I had originally planned to run a SFT lifter but I’m beginning to lean towards a solid roller. Either way I think a small (.030”ish) hole in each lifter bore would be beneficial, especially in a street car such as this.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Unless the roller on the lifter is pressure fed, there is no reason to put any oil there.
Keep the idle speed up at 1k and keep the oil pressure up at 40 hot and that's all you need.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
The galley has a copper tube? Can't you just center punch where you want the hole, lay the bit down as close to top of the lifter bore as you can and go to town? Position or angle isn't critical, right? Just need a bit that is long enough to get the chuck out of the way. I've never seen the drilling tool but if I had to make a jig, I'd use some aluminum turned to lifter size with a top stop band. Determine how far down you want the hole to be and drill back from the side to the top so it comes out close to the opposite edge. On small holes like that, the bit will usually get a good bite and start on a steep angle with a decent centerpunch mark.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I've drilled holes in bushings and tubes and never had a jig.
Like I said above, unless he is using pressure fed lifters there is no reason to put holes in the tube.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Maybe I'm missing something but if the tube is installed and not drilled, where does the lubrication for the lifter bore and the cam lobe to lifter face come from? I'm not intimately familiar with the oiling scheme in the SBM.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
I’m not sure I’m completely comfortable with splash oiling only on a street car that will see more idle time than a race car in the staging lanes.
I have considered trying to poke a tiny hole in the tube with my dremel but I don’t think my hand is steady enough. I’m not even sure I wanna do it yet, just spitballing.
Oh, and I did pull the trigger on a set of these lifters. I’ll be doing a review on them when they get here next week.
3316SB SMALL BLOCK CHRYSLER
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