My 422 smallblock build

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I’m not sure I’m completely comfortable with splash oiling only on a street car that will see more idle time than a race car in the staging lanes.
I have considered trying to poke a tiny hole in the tube with my dremel but I don’t think my hand is steady enough. I’m not even sure I wanna do it yet, just spitballing.
Oh, and I did pull the trigger on a set of these lifters. I’ll be doing a review on them when they get here next week.
3316SB SMALL BLOCK CHRYSLER


You'd be surprised how much oil is flying around in there. That hole won't do anything extra to lube the roller or the body.
 
I’m not sure I’m completely comfortable with splash oiling only on a street car that will see more idle time than a race car in the staging lanes.
I have considered trying to poke a tiny hole in the tube with my dremel but I don’t think my hand is steady enough. I’m not even sure I wanna do it yet, just spitballing.
Oh, and I did pull the trigger on a set of these lifters. I’ll be doing a review on them when they get here next week.
3316SB SMALL BLOCK CHRYSLER


I hope that outside mounted tie bar clears your block ok.
 
if you are running roller you can run pressure fed rollers
if FT run an EDM hole 've seem /015 to /045 and would appreciate comments on what size works best
If hyd grind a flat on the side of the lifter like the 229 v6 chevy
the flat goes from the oil bans to about an eighth from the face and needs a hole as would the edm and pressure fed roller
there is a picture in the thompson lifter catalog or just go buy one
Mopar lifters may be available from Crower or Rhodes, maybe Howards or Hughe but it's so easy to do with a v block and mag base grinder...
Mike Jones says splash all by itself is inadequate for lifter face
mw 'd check the lifter bores and lifter bore clearance real close
there are a lot of undersized lifters out there even with perfect stock size bores'\
and lots of worn out lifter bores
and lots with big chamfers at tops and bottoms
 
I know it’s a gamble but if I have to disassemble and grind so be it.
So I had to eat my words a little. The Johnson lifters came in the mail on Saturday and I instantly took a pair out of the box and proceeded to check clearance on every lifter bore. They cleared everything until I got to the last two bores on the driver side. Just barely touched so I disassembled everything I had done to this point and did the necessary grinding. Then washed the block again and started over.
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So back to these lifters. I first spied them on the Competition Products clearance rack. After doing a little detective work and asking around about them I pulled the trigger and ordered a set.
Initial inspection looks good. They have a hole in the oil band and one in the pushrod cup so I have to assume that they can be used for pushrod oiling. Doesn’t apply to me so I’m not worried about it. Fit and finish looks good, everything feels smooth and tight (just the way I like!).
Only time will tell I guess.

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So I had to eat my words a little. The Johnson lifters came in the mail on Saturday and I instantly took a pair out of the box and proceeded to check clearance on every lifter bore. They cleared everything until I got to the last two bores on the driver side. Just barely touched so I disassembled everything I had done to this point and did the necessary grinding. Then washed the block again and started over.
d6e22377-e7d8-4fb1-bc8b-755555ceffab-jpeg.1715481103

2272494e-22f5-449f-b5ae-7871b83f87e9-jpeg.1715481104

So back to these lifters. I first spied them on the Competition Products clearance rack. After doing a little detective work and asking around about them I pulled the trigger and ordered a set.
Initial inspection looks good. They have a hole in the oil band and one in the pushrod cup so I have to assume that they can be used for pushrod oiling. Doesn’t apply to me so I’m not worried about it. Fit and finish looks good, everything feels smooth and tight (just the way I like!).
Only time will tell I guess.

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What is diameter of the roller?
Are they bearing or bushing?
 
pretty standard
wonder why they refer to mechanical lifters as 'retro fit"


Because they fit a block that was not designed to use a hydraulic roller lifter.


Edit: if it wasn't a "retro" fit roller it would use the dog bones and spider plate and not a conventional link bar system.
 
were those hyd? where did it say that- I must have missed it
if so they are all chevy size rollers, only one mfg AFIK
 
were those hyd? where did it say that- I must have missed it
if so they are all chevy size rollers, only one mfg AFIK
Those sure do look like hydraulic rollers with the retainer snap ring.
I would take one apart
They may have shipped the wrong ones.
 
yr
had me going too looked thrm p befot I posted
I did not recall that Johnson made solids
then remembered they may be cast steel
which should be ok for street rollers
I liked the skirted wheels
 
yr
had me going too looked thrm p befot I posted
I did not recall that Johnson made solids
then remembered they may be cast steel
which should be ok for street rollers
I liked the skirted wheels


My bad because I thought we were talking hydraulic roller lifters.

Are they really calling those retro fit??? If so, that is bizarre.

I also hope they have at least a .750 wheel. You might get away with a smaller diameter wheel on a HR but that is just asking for trouble with a solid roller.
 
Those sure do look like hydraulic rollers with the retainer snap ring.
I would take one apart
They may have shipped the wrong ones.

All the solid lifters I have looked at have that snap ring on the top insert. Not sure if it is for ease of manufacture or rebuild-ability. Maybe they can use the same outside body and different guts for solid and hydraulic.
 
All the solid lifters I have looked at have that snap ring on the top insert. Not sure if it is for ease of manufacture or rebuild-ability. Maybe they can use the same outside body and different guts for solid and hydraulic.
Interesting
I would still take one apart.
The Retro fit hydraulic rollers I got from Comp are junk, but that a whole different story.
Dont want to go there.
 
I also hope they have at least a .750 wheel. You might get away with a smaller diameter wheel on a HR but that is just asking for trouble with a solid roller.
Why would wheel diameter have anything to do with hydraulic or solid? I totally agree that the bigger the wheel the better but why would it be less desirable on a solid application. The wheel is going to make the same amount of revolutions per camshaft rotation regardless if it’s hydraulic or solid.
 
Interesting
I would still take one apart.
The Retro fit hydraulic rollers I got from Comp are junk, but that a whole different story.
Dont want to go there.
I do plan to disassemble at least one mostly to clean and inspect, but also out of curiosity now.
 
I do plan to disassemble at least one mostly to clean and inspect, but also out of curiosity now.

I have the same set, and I was interested enough to take one apart myself, since my attempts to blow air through one were unsuccessful.

The disc under the cup would seem to prevent them from pushrod oiling.

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I do plan to disassemble at least one mostly to clean and inspect, but also out of curiosity now.
Took one apart. Below the snap ring is the pushrod cup and below that is a solid disc that seats on a lip inside the lifter body. There is an empty cavity under the disc. I have to assume that the same lifter body is used for solid and hydraulic lifters. The hydro version would have a spring in place of the solid disc. Of course this is just speculation on my part.

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We were typing at the same time!
I agree with you.

I'm running a fairly mild cam (by mech roller standards) 242/242 @ .050, .571 lift.

I'm still a little ways away from trying them (as seen below), but if by chance I get finished first I'll be sure to post back.

Anyways, good thread, I'll be watching.

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what is rod bearing clearance? polish crank for a little more clearance. the cup has a hole in it, I know u tried blowing thru the lifter, but does oil go around the disc? amc engines use .904" lifters and oil thru pushrods
 
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