Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Would not those in a Magnum
wonder if they just drill a hole in the disc
wonder if they just drill a hole in the disc
Why would wheel diameter have anything to do with hydraulic or solid? I totally agree that the bigger the wheel the better but why would it be less desirable on a solid application. The wheel is going to make the same amount of revolutions per camshaft rotation regardless if it’s hydraulic or solid.
On the same cam the smaller the roller the higher the roller rpm."Chrysler's use a bigger diameter core than Chevrolet. That means for the same lift, the Chrylser will have a higher wheel speed."
you thinking rpm with the larger wheel YR?
AFIK all retrofit hr use the .700 wheel
What's oem mopar hr?
you can fit a .815-820 in a.904 lifter bore oo big get too narrow
or bore to .937 to clean up the lifter bores
with keyed lifters even larger
I've used isky's
I run comp solid roller lifters with the larger wheel, don't think they are considered a "retrofit" lifter though. They also have the tie bar on the inside instead of the cylinder side.
On the wheel diameter/speed thing is to use a boat trailer tire to explain. A trailer with a 8" wheel and say a 15" tall tire will have a greater bearing speed than a 20" tall tire on a 13" wheel. In a mile they both travel the same distance but the smaller tire has to make more revolutions.
It’s what’s in my 372”the larger core means that it is a longer distance around the lobe
the larger wheel rpms slower
i did bot know comp had .810 roller in retrofit lifters
anyone else run them?
AAFIK johnson made all the retrofit lifters
512-- is yours a roller block with stock replacement lifters?
My block is a all stock 1969 340 LA, no oiling modsthe larger core means that it is a longer distance around the lobe
the larger wheel rpms slower
i did bot know comp had .810 roller in retrofit lifters
anyone else run them?
AAFIK johnson made all the retrofit lifters
512-- is yours a roller block with stock replacement lifters?
You should will be OK with the solid rollers from Comp.He didn’t block anything, ran good oil pressure, no issues. Same thing on the next engine, a 360. He had a 340 in it for around 10 years. Raced it at least twice a week.
The weird part was the 340 would out 60’ foot and mph the 360 with a best 1/8 time of 6:13 and the 360 ran a 6:11 best, same heads and cam. 2600 pound Demon
I do have oil going to mine, and didn’t block anything. Though I checked oil pressure as I rolled the engine over, and no losses.
The next engine I’m putting together, will be blocked off, and rely on splash oiling. The x block I bought recently.
I’ll see how these lifters hold up. You guys have relayed some complaints about these lifters, or the other models Comp offers?
If you use ARP bolts on the main you will have to clearnce the pump where it sits above the bolt. I had my main seal leak 3 times before we found this. The 3rd time through we found it because the oil pump gasket blew into 2 pieces (half of which was sitting in the bottom of the pan) . Looking back at my build thread, I see that somebody warned me about this but I didn't catch it.Washed the block and got a quick coat of paint on her and got the freeze plugs beat in.
Layed the crank in and checked main bearing clearance with Plastigauge. All measured between .0015 - .002”. Crank endplay measured .0025”. The crank is a forged piece from BPE with a 4” stroke and 2.10 rod journal. The rotating assembly was internally balanced by Courson Racing Engines in Emlenton, PA to 1852 grams.
View attachment 1715472915
View attachment 1715472921
Thanks for the heads up but I just used a factory main bolt under the oil pump body.If you use ARP bolts on the main you will have to clearnce the pump where it sits above the bolt. I had my main seal leak 3 times before we found this. The 3rd time through we found it because the oil pump gasket blew into 2 pieces (half of which was sitting in the bottom of the pan) . Looking back at my build thread, I see that somebody warned me about this but I didn't catch it.
Thanks for the heads up but I just used a factory main bolt under the oil pump body.
Yeah it didn't require much grinding but it sure was a PIA until we found it.I’m still going to have to grind just a little bit. I’m anal about torquing bolts without a hardened washer under it.
Me tooThanks for the heads up but I just used a factory main bolt under the oil pump body.
Do you have a thread going on for your build?I'm running a fairly mild cam (by mech roller standards) 242/242 @ .050, .571 lift.
I'm still a little ways away from trying them (as seen below), but if by chance I get finished first I'll be sure to post back.
Anyways, good thread, I'll be watching.
View attachment 1715481574
Do you have a thread going on for your build?
My cam will be very comparable.
Meh, it works and I’m too poor to buy fancy tools.Dam , I hate those ring compressors. Best thing I ever did was get the tapered one piece deal.