My home inspection of Speedmaster heads

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Cudafever said:
You must like cowboy hats.
I swear, that is the only ones, that know there hat/head size.:elmer:I bet ol elmer don't know his hat size:poke::D
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Wouldn't it be funny if all this time YR was actually Jpar's wife posting things from magazines, internet & such. No wonder YR gets the best of Jpar and lives in his head :D He'll get his cheesebooger when she gets good and ready to cook him one!
 
318willrun said:
Wouldn't it be funny if all this time YR was actually Jpar's wife posting things from magazines, internet & such. No wonder YR gets the best of Jpar and lives in his head :D He'll get his cheesebooger when she gets good and ready to cook him one!
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:rofl:
 
318willrun said:
Wouldn't it be funny if all this time YR was actually Jpar's wife posting things from magazines, internet & such. No wonder YR gets the best of Jpar and lives in his head :D He'll get his cheesebooger when she gets good and ready to cook him one!
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Oh great head grinder carburetor tuner and comedian all rolled up in one..:rolleyes:..
 
OK, doing some quick easy checks now that I actually have my rocker assemblies in hand. Looking at just the hold down bolts and thread engagement into the heli-coiled rocker stands, this is basic knowledge to most I'm sure: Factory hold down bolts extend 20mm from the bottom of the shafts. The rocker stands heli-coils start 10mm below the saddles. You only get 10mm (6-7 threads) of bolt engagement. The heli-coils offer approx. 22mm of thread engagement. Doing the math we're leaving an additional 12mm of unused thread engagement. So, I don't know about you, but as tolene56 mentioned, I too will be using studs that engage every bit of usable threads in the stands. Running with 10mm of engagement? No way, never.

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12many said:
OK, doing some quick easy checks now that I actually have my rocker assemblies in hand. Looking at just the hold down bolts and thread engagement into the heli-coiled rocker stands, this is basic knowledge to most I'm sure: Factory hold down bolts extend 20mm from the bottom of the shafts. The rocker stands heli-coils start 10mm below the saddles. You only get 10mm (6-7 threads) of bolt engagement. The heli-coils offer approx. 22mm of thread engagement. Doing the math we're leaving an additional 12mm of unused thread engagement. So, I don't know about you, but as tolene56 mentioned, I too will be using studs that engage every bit of usable threads in the stands. Running with 10mm of engagement? No way, never.

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Awesome! Great Review!
 
I saw a video of someone reviewing some Speed master valve springs and they mentioned that the retainers had to be pressed into the spring with some effort, the machining finish causes flash to build up on the inside of the coil. When the retainer is forced fit it causes the last coil to stick out beyond the retainer. Looks like what we have here. Shouldn't be, it is, I'll grind the inside a little so its correct. Maybe radius the outer coil end too...dress em up. That little bit of protrusion may scrape on the underside of the rocker arm. Is what it is, I intend on using them, hope they don't break or go flacid on me! Now I need a stronger spring compressor, mine is not strong enough to compress these springs :BangHead:

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So far so good. Just out of the box anyway. The casting parting lines in the ports are quite smooth. A flap wheel will clean those up in a jiffy. It probably won't make any difference but it couldn't hurt. Yes the rockers are quite close to the springs and retailers. The shafts are only finger tight and a proper torque could make the difference. 010 would probably be enough as the gap opens up as the valve opens. When the valve seats is the tight spot, for the rockers. Got to remember, these are inexpensive aftermarket parts and a small amount of modifications might be necessary. For the price I think I did A OK.

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Not many running Ersons likely but here's how close things are, should be good after spring ends are dressed up:

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12many said:
Not many running Ersons likely but here's how close things are, should be good after spring ends are dressed up:
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True that. My stock cast 273 rockers got clearanced with some 340 springs. With a different combination of parts you have to do what is necessary. I don't like the combination I will probably switch to 901 Comp springs instead. These springs were E bay fodder.

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A couple pics of the things I've noticed, nothing show stopping at all. I'll post back with valve guide clearances when I get them apart.

The shavings in the exhaust bolt holes and a bit of flaking around the guide support bosses. Intake ports are matched to the gasket, I don't have an exhaust gasket on hand.
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TurboGLH said:
A couple pics of the things I've noticed, nothing show stopping at all. I'll post back with valve guide clearances when I get them apart.

The shavings in the exhaust bolt holes and a bit of flaking around the guide support bosses. Intake ports are matched to the gasket, I don't have an exhaust gasket on hand.View attachment 1715436500 View attachment 1715436501 View attachment 1715436502 View attachment 1715436503 View attachment 1715436504
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If you have a set of snap gauges and mics or calipers can you give me a measurement on what the cnc’d heads are at the intake pushrod pinch. Kinda curious
 
pittsburghracer said:
If you have a set of snap gauges and mics or calipers can you give me a measurement on what the cnc’d heads are at the intake pushrod pinch. Kinda curious
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1.013 (ish, snap gauges are at work) My 12"set of calipers seems to be able to get in deep enough.

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318willrun said:
Great stuff being posted.... :thumbsup: Thanks All !!!
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Hey, we're all in this together. If 1 has an issue we all may have an issue. Although, as mentioned by TurboGLH, I looked inside all the bolt holes and didn't find any shavings. Like any part, check it over before bolting it on.
 
toolmanmike said:
Hey, we're all in this together. If 1 has an issue we all may have an issue. Although, as mentioned by TurboGLH, I looked inside all the bolt holes and didn't find any shavings. Like any part, check it over before bolting it on.
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yeah, i'm seeing issues others post that I didn't find on mine. It's why heads should be inspected before use, regardless what another persons experiences.
 
12many said:
Are the pillar protrusions gone?
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If you're asking if the pinch is entirely gone, not at all. But I don't think that's what you're asking, so give me more info and I'll get back to you.
 
There's a place about 30min from my house that offers flow benching as a service. I missed them today, past quitting time. But I'm going to try them again tomorrow, hopefully it's not a large $ amount, but I'd like to get at least one port of each flowed.

Anyone with more experience, any ports in particular that tend to skew high/low compared to the rest?
 
TurboGLH said:
If you're asking if the pinch is entirely gone, not at all. But I don't think that's what you're asking, so give me more info and I'll get back to you.
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Without offset rockers and modified pushrod pockets, the pinch will be there. It's kind of a design flaw. Heck, maybe it creates turbulence!

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TurboGLH said:
There's a place about 30min from my house that offers flow benching as a service. I missed them today, past quitting time. But I'm going to try them again tomorrow, hopefully it's not a large $ amount, but I'd like to get at least one port of each flowed.

Anyone with more experience, any ports in particular that tend to skew high/low compared to the rest?
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That would be great!
 
TurboGLH said:
If you're asking if the pinch is entirely gone, not at all. But I don't think that's what you're asking, so give me more info and I'll get back to you.
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Up in the intake runners, the straight wall, the pillar protrusion for the head stud, as cast it protrudes about a 1/4" +/-
 
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