My version of a factory parts build 318

-

Dan the man

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2014
Messages
4,459
Reaction score
2,446
Location
missouri
4 barrel carb / intake from a 340 or 360. 302 heads with 360 valve's, comp valve job, bowl work, valve's back cut, mill the heads only enough to clean them up. Bore/Hone to clean up the bores, have block align bored and then have the block decked and squared so pistons are at zero deck height. 340 cam or close to it, degree the cam. Windage tray. Blueprint stock oil pump. Balance the rotating assembly. Recurve the distributor, use the "orange " box. Build the 318 with a 9.0:1 cr. Okay, what do you guys think about this combination? If I was to do a 318 2 barrel with stock parts, I would use a carb / intake from a truck, 360 2 barrel cam, rework the stock heads, good flowing exhaust system.
 
All Ill say is I totally agree with not using stock LA 318 heads, no matter how much they are grinded on it isn't the same casting as a 340-360 head. The people who port those LA 318 heads trying to prove something Ill never understand when all you need to do is get different heads.
The 360 heads will only hurt the power unless the builder is willing to use different pistons to raise the compression.
 
listen I know I'm not arguing with any of the kids and broke men here who think 318s are just as good as 340s that is some BS they saw on YT . Being as I have been through both engines and know the internals Ill politely disagree and leave. No one here including myself knows better than the original engineers who designed these engines. If the 318 would have cut it, they wouldn't have built the 340 there wouldn't have been a reason to.
I never said that. What's wrong with someone using what they already have? Not everyone can afford a 340.
 
the whole idea of their enterprise seemed to be "build a 318 with stock 318 parts and see if we can make 1hp per cube" but that obviously went out the window once they started talking about regrinding a cam and who knows what other nonsense.

here, you're basically giving advice on how to rebuild a motor to make a little more power. which is fine, I guess but there's nothing revolutionary about it. compression, better heads and a bigger cam make better power. well... no ****.

but then you veer off into crazy town. going and hunting down a set of heads and then having port work as well as machine work done to them along with fresh components? yeah at that point you could probably find a set of decent heads that somebody is offloading for less, or hell, you're damn near to aftermarket alum. head territory.

the cam? a low line summit RV cam probably has better specs than a repop 340 cam, and likely would be a split pattern thus working better, for cheaper.

same with that whole idea of a truck 360 2V intake and carb. why on god's green earth would you go that way when you could scoop up an aftermarket 4bbl intake and a holley/AFB at a swap meet for $150 bucks?

conceptually, this is what is commonly called "inversion" or backward thinking. what you are suggesting, while having a good base-- especially the advice on the bottom end, ultimately runs counter intuitive to a build.
 
the whole idea of their enterprise seemed to be "build a 318 with stock 318 parts and see if we can make 1hp per cube" but that obviously went out the window once they started talking about regrinding a cam and who knows what other nonsense.

here, you're basically giving advice on how to rebuild a motor to make a little more power. which is fine, I guess but there's nothing revolutionary about it. compression, better heads and a bigger cam make better power. well... no ****.

but then you veer off into crazy town. going and hunting down a set of heads and then having port work as well as machine work done to them along with fresh components? yeah at that point you could probably find a set of decent heads that somebody is offloading for less, or hell, you're damn near to aftermarket alum. head territory.

the cam? a low line summit RV cam probably has better specs than a repop 340 cam, and likely would be a split pattern thus working better, for cheaper.

same with that whole idea of a truck 360 2V intake and carb. why on god's green earth would you go that way when you could scoop up an aftermarket 4bbl intake and a holley/AFB at a swap meet for $150 bucks?

conceptually, this is what is commonly called "inversion" or backward thinking. what you are suggesting, while having a good base-- especially the advice on the bottom end, ultimately runs counter intuitive to a build.
I only stayed with the 2 barrel as that's what the OP is doing. I believe that I even suggested the use of a truck 2 barrel carburetor and intake manifold plus the 360 2 barrel cam. I think that it's awesome to see how much power you can get without spending the big bucks
 
I want to see what somebody can get out of 318 using factory stock parts. If it's a 2bbl, then you use every component untouched. You do not port the heads. You do not regrind the camshaft. You do not add compression. Just see what a wizard can super tune a 318 2bbl, using "as cast" 318 2bbl parts.
 
I want to see what somebody can get out of 318 using factory stock parts. If it's a 2bbl, then you use every component untouched. You do not port the heads. You do not regrind the camshaft. You do not add compression. Just see what a wizard can super tune a 318 2bbl, using "as cast" 318 2bbl parts.
I agree, I would like to see it done too.
 
4 barrel carb / intake from a 340 or 360. 302 heads with 360 valve's, comp valve job, bowl work, valve's back cut, mill the heads only enough to clean them up. Bore/Hone to clean up the bores, have block align bored and then have the block decked and squared so pistons are at zero deck height. 340 cam or close to it, degree the cam. Windage tray. Blueprint stock oil pump. Balance the rotating assembly. Recurve the distributor, use the "orange " box. Build the 318 with a 9.0:1 cr. Okay, what do you guys think about this combination? If I was to do a 318 2 barrel with stock parts, I would use a carb / intake from a truck, 360 2 barrel cam, rework the stock heads, good flowing exhaust system.
I think if you have one combo instead of a variety of possible parts there could be an honest reply on how good it is or not but instead I’ll call you a dreamer since your all over the place without a clear goal.
 
The 360 heads will only hurt the power unless the builder is willing to use different pistons to raise the compression.
So you think so. Even though it’s been proven otherwise.
Combo dependent!!!
I never said that. What's wrong with someone using what they already have? Not everyone can afford a 340.
I’m behind you on that one!
I think that I could give useful advice on the 318 but I think that I would just be cut off, I can tell this by your response.
I haven’t seen such posts that would give me warm fuzzy feelings. Your all over the place. If you were clear and concise that would be different.
I understand. Some people don't think the 318 is worth messing with.
True! But sometimes you gotta roll with what ya got.
I only stayed with the 2 barrel as that's what the OP is doing. I believe that I even suggested the use of a truck 2 barrel carburetor and intake manifold plus the 360 2 barrel cam. I think that it's awesome to see how much power you can get without spending the big bucks
What’s the difference between a passenger car 2bbl. from a a dart and a truck?

(I know this answer, do convince me of your thinking. But do so fact check first.)
 
So you think so. Even though it’s been proven otherwise.
Combo dependent!!!

I’m behind you on that one!

I haven’t seen such posts that would give me warm fuzzy feelings. Your all over the place. If you were clear and concise that would be different.

True! But sometimes you gotta roll with what ya got.

What’s the difference between a passenger car 2bbl. from a a dart and a truck?

(I know this answer, do convince me of your thinking. But do so fact check first.)
The 360 heads hurt performance from the dropping of the compression ratio. The 318 doesn't benefit from the 360's bigger valve's and ports until the rpm's come up. Show me what had to be done to get the 360 heads to improve the performance of a 318
 
1. Could someone clarify something for me? 302 heads are they LA 340 -360 castings? I could swear I have a set of J heads that are 302 heads in my garage.

2. I agree not everyone can afford a 340 but this build here requires gathering up 340 parts no? It seems to me after an intake and heads you are 1/4 of the way there no? Its a mindset if you tell yourself you cant afford it you start believing it. I don't know what stage of life people here are in but I am past settling for one thing when I really want another.

3. if its a 318 why put all kinds of other parts on it or at least call it a modded 318 just to clarify. I mean I've seen these threads ,in the end the only thing 318 is the block with the number cast into the side that says 318.

You know, when I was a kid it was common knowledge a Chevy 327 was a hot small block, but then you realize the 2 barrel 327 in your uncles Baiscayne isn't necessarily what the guys were talking about...food for thought...its all about internals for those that didnt get the 327 analogy.
 
Last edited:
Dan, is this a engine you are building now?
Helping a friend plan out his build. He wants to do something different and that's why I suggested a 360 2 barrel cam since everyone else has used the 340 cam in their 318. He already has a 2 barrel set up for a truck I don't know if it has more cfm than a car 2 barrel and I figured that the intake would be designed for torque since it's for a truck. You have any input?
 
I only stayed with the 2 barrel as that's what the OP is doing. I believe that I even suggested the use of a truck 2 barrel carburetor and intake manifold plus the 360 2 barrel cam. I think that it's awesome to see how much power you can get without spending the big bucks
if you're deviating from a stock build, why would you spend the time, energy and money to hunt down parts that are categorically inferior?

replacing a 2bbl intake with another 2bbl intake? replacing a 2bbl cam with a different 2bbl cam?

madness.

a cheap *** split pattern RV cam is better in every conceivable way than a 2bbl 360 truck cam. a swap meet intake and carb or ****, even a 4bbl carb adapter and bottom barrel tiny 4bbl carb is leaps and bounds ahead of any 2bbl.

again, backward thinking.

replacing crap with slightly better crap isn't budget building. that's false economy.
 
I dont care. I'm doin a .030" 1977 teener with KB167s, and a melling SPD-22 68 340 automatic cam, Hylift Johnson lifters. Blocks been align honed, torqueplate bored and honed. I mocked it up at all 4 corners to get an idea of piston to deck height, and as of today it's now back at the machinest to trim the deck on both sides to put the pistons .004" in the hole at TDC on both banks.

Using Eagle H beam full floating rods, and a forged 340 crank. Rotating assy is balanced. That 340 crank needed an awful lot to make it right. A few minor oiling mods. This will make the bottom end strong, and bulletproof. Also using a weiand stealth intake, with an eddy 600, and a 68 340 low restriction air cleaner. Porting and port matching a set of 302s to go on it. Using 68 340 exhaust manifolds, and a GM HEI fired mopar electronic distributor. I plan on degreeing the cam as well.

20221027_152436.jpg


20221027_152358.jpg


20221028_151121.jpg


20221028_150722.jpg


20221031_100807.jpg


20221031_102251.jpg


20221031_102324.jpg


20221031_103418.jpg
 
Last edited:
Helping a friend plan out his build. He wants to do something different and that's why I suggested a 360 2 barrel cam since everyone else has used the 340 cam in their 318. He already has a 2 barrel set up for a truck I don't know if it has more cfm than a car 2 barrel and I figured that the intake would be designed for torque since it's for a truck. You have any input?
Keep remembering this is for a truck.
 
1. Could someone clarify something for me? 302 heads are they LA 340 -360 castings? I could swear I have a set of J heads that are 302 heads in my garage.
302 heads are LA heads that came on a 318 only.
J heads have a 915 casting number.
2. I agree not everyone can afford a 340 but this build here requires gathering up 340 parts no?
No. But it may help get to the target goal for power.
Key word - may.
It seems to me after an intake and heads you are 1/4 of the way there no?
Depends on the plan of attack. Someone could also say it’s half way there. Next is a cam and headers and be done with it.
Its a mindset if you tell yourself you cant afford it you start believing it. I don't know what stage of life people here are in but I am past settling for one thing when I really want another.
I try very hard not to settle on things because when you could have and settled, you always say to yourself “I could have had….”
3. if its a 318 why put all kinds of other parts on it or at least call it a modded 318 just to clarify. I mean I've seen these threads ,in the end the only thing 318 is the block with the number cast into the side that says 318.

You know, when I was a kid it was common knowledge a Chevy 327 was a hot small block, but then you realize the 2 barrel 327 in your uncles Baiscayne isn't necessarily what the guys were talking about...food for thought...its all about internals for those that didnt get the 327 analogy.
 
The 360 heads hurt performance from the dropping of the compression ratio.
While there is a draw back to the open chamber, how much exactly is the drop? Can this not be fix by a milling of the heads? Remember, flow trumps compression. Search IQ52 and read up on his low compression 400 build.
The 318 doesn't benefit from the 360's bigger valve's and ports until the rpm's come up.
Really?!?! Hummm, at what rpm now?
Show me what had to be done to get the 360 heads to improve the performance of a 318
Nothing. Run as is. Re-cam for the lower compression and rpm desired.
 
While there is a draw back to the open chamber, how much exactly is the drop? Can this not be fix by a milling of the heads? Remember, flow trumps compression. Search IQ52 and read up on his low compression 400 build.

Really?!?! Hummm, at what rpm now?

Nothing. Run as is. Re-cam for the lower compression and rpm desired.
Awesome information
 
the whole idea of their enterprise seemed to be "build a 318 with stock 318 parts and see if we can make 1hp per cube" but that obviously went out the window once they started talking about regrinding a cam and who knows what other nonsense.
How is that nonsense? Why not regrind the cam. It’s a lot cheaper than a new cam! The videos stated right up front that they were going to do a rebuild with replacement pistons. Lightening up parts, grinding away at the head, just removing metal is what they said, right up front.
but then you veer off into crazy town. going and hunting down a set of heads and then having port work as well as machine work done to them along with fresh components? yeah at that point you could probably find a set of decent heads that somebody is offloading for less, or hell, you're damn near to aftermarket alum. head territory.
Paying someone to port and rebuild the head is pricey enough to consider new aluminum heads. Then again, if one could do the work themselves…….. Birds to cheap cheap cheap.
the cam? a low line summit RV cam probably has better specs than a repop 340 cam, and likely would be a split pattern thus working better, for cheaper.
A single pattern vs a dual pattern cam is dependent on how the head flows as to which one will make better power.
Timing events are the important item here. Dual or single pattern.
same with that whole idea of a truck 360 2V intake and carb. why on god's green earth would you go that way when you could scoop up an aftermarket 4bbl intake and a holley/AFB at a swap meet for $150 bucks?
If that’s possible, I’d do that. Dan doesn’t know the carbs are identical except the jetting. The intakes are identical. Year, make & model dependent, the truck could be minus a EGR valve.
conceptually, this is what is commonly called "inversion" or backward thinking. what you are suggesting, while having a good base-- especially the advice on the bottom end, ultimately runs counter intuitive to a build.
Always make a plan and check with the smart guys!
That’s what I do before I leap.
 
While there is a draw back to the open chamber, how much exactly is the drop? Can this not be fix by a milling of the heads? Remember, flow trumps compression. Search IQ52 and read up on his low compression 400 build.

Really?!?! Hummm, at what rpm now?

Nothing. Run as is. Re-cam for the lower compression and rpm desired.
I forgot about the junk yard jewel 318. I'm going to read it carefully, I just skimmed through it a moment ago
 
If a small bump in a 318’s performance is being sought and as I read it, for a truck????

Mill the stock 318 head, a 3 angle valve job with the stock valves is good (and cheap vs installing 360 valves, even though I’d suggest it, but it’s pricey.)
Use the 360 cam. Everything else reuse from the 318.

Add an upgraded ignition, dual exhaust, headers or not, use an H pipe. For a quite muffler, Walker has the Quite Flow & for a quite rumble, there Sound XF mufflers. The longer the case the more quite they will be. A size of 2-1/4 inch exhaust pipe is all you’ll need for this set up.

IF the short block needs rebuilding, use the earlier 318 pistons. They offer more compression vs the smog years.If there not available, the KB slugs and a slightly thicker head gasket can be used. I’d look for a 9.0-1 ratio for 87 octane use.

The J yard jewel I would not use for a truck.
 
-
Back
Top