Nicks Garage, 572 HEMI, Here we go....

-
Most of the problems associated with ignition, are user induced. Wiring being the main culprit 99% of the time. I mean we did just see Nick crimp a battery cable with freakin Vice grips.
bahahah there was soo much in that video that i forgot about that... i mean.. when i was 16 i did that ****.. i would have even understood a hammer crimper tool or something... it did get the job done though
 
I am curious... i have never used a laptop to program MSD stuffs... is the software readily available? special cable needed to read the box?
The software comes on a disk but is also available for free from their website. The cable I use is a simple USB to serial adapter, very very easy to use.

I can't remember exactly how I programmed it but I usually like working with nice round numbers. What I probably did is set base timing @ 40 total, with the distributor locked out. That way , if I find it runs best at 30 degrees, I subtract 10 degrees with the software and shape the curve. I may have it idling at 20 degrees which means I pulled 20 with the software. It's really slick and easy to test this way. Wanna try 34 degrees? Easy just subtract 6 degrees and dyno it. You don't even have to pickup a timing light once you've verified the base setting.

So in the video, when they try it @ "32" , depending on the rpm he sees 32 at and the shape of the curve, as the engine gets to a higher rpm it may access another 10 degrees so now it's actually @ 42 degrees. I suspect this is what's going on with the peak hp being much lower and sooner at 5900 rpm. The engine is doing too much negative work-hence the power drop off. J.Rob
 
The software comes on a disk but is also available for free from their website. The cable I use is a simple USB to serial adapter, very very easy to use.

I can't remember exactly how I programmed it but I usually like working with nice round numbers. What I probably did is set base timing @ 40 total, with the distributor locked out. That way , if I find it runs best at 30 degrees, I subtract 10 degrees with the software and shape the curve. I may have it idling at 20 degrees which means I pulled 20 with the software. It's really slick and easy to test this way. Wanna try 34 degrees? Easy just subtract 6 degrees and dyno it. You don't even have to pickup a timing light once you've verified the base setting.

So in the video, when they try it @ "32" , depending on the rpm he sees 32 at and the shape of the curve, as the engine gets to a higher rpm it may access another 10 degrees so now it's actually @ 42 degrees. I suspect this is what's going on with the peak hp being much lower and sooner at 5900 rpm. The engine is doing too much negative work-hence the power drop off. J.Rob
That’s the biggest thing I took away from the video. Any time you see a programmable box you have to assume the distributor is locked out and timing is synced to the box. ALL adjustments are done electronically, NOT at the distributor. Some guys should stick to restorations.
 
AHH! i forgot bout the gaskets.... just curious.. why would head gaskets start leaking just from sitting? Also.. i know i'm paranoid and overthink but i wouldn't have turned it over again cause i woulda been worried bout water leaking into a cyl and we know how much water likes to compress
How much raw fuel was dumped into that engine? You caint compress liquid. Can you say compromised head gaskets? I'm really surprised they didn't hydrolock it.
 
I mean, doesn't everyone use a hammer to adjust the timing?
I actually do. I turn it around backwards and gently tap on the vacuum can one way or the other with the wooden handle. It's kinda hard to get to on a slant 6. lol
 
How about taking the valvecovers off to check the lash and inspect the valvetrain, BEFORE firing it !?
I was wondering that myself, especially after the 1st video you think you'd go completely through the entire setup to make sure, expensive engine to F up.
 
Typical clickbait drama thar I’ve come to expect with the supposed “big name professional” channels… just being able to dink around with something like that for the sake of views tells me they passed the point of credibility long ago. There’s a lot more people on this forum I’d trust to build or start that than there is on YouTube!
Yup and how many "318 rebuild " or "will it run" videos have to be made? the way people copy each other on YT got old quick also...I'd rather be in the garage playing around with my own LA engine than watching it on TV...
 
Yup and how many "318 rebuild " or "will it run" videos have to be made? the way people copy each other on YT got old quick also...I'd rather be in the garage playing around with my own LA engine than watching it on TV...
The "Will it run" videos used to actually be ok, it would be like a locked up 1957 ford or somethign in a field.. now it's like "we found a 1984 ford crown vic in a heated garage!!!" like.. yeah.. it will run now **** off... Every now and then i will see like super old tractor vids or a dozer thats been sitting for 50 years.. i still find that interesting
 
Last edited:
I was wondering that myself, especially after the 1st video you think you'd go completely through the entire setup to make sure, expensive engine to F up.
I think he was hoping it would be a 2 hour setup, make some pulls and make a video thing.. he seems rushed and pissed off. Plus i'm guessing that motor would be 35-40k to build? not a penny of his if he trashes it..
 
Don't know if anyone mentioned this, I wonder how FULL the oil pan might be. :)

Being an electrical guy, the vice grip crimping. UGH... If you are going to use the wrong tools, at least go find a monster set of vice grips to crimp that **** instead of those pussy level ones he used. :lol:
 
in the second video he did say he changed the oil..

I did the speed reading version, fast forward and got it done in 10 minutes. Watching the first video was like taking a double dose of my heart drug that knocks off 50 iq points. OOF
 
When they found the head gasket water leak did they check to make sure some wasn't going into the oil ?
 
Unless the programmed timing curve is set up for full advance before about 2000rpm, he has no idea what the actual full advance timing is.

He never checks the timing at high rpm(not that I’ve seen anyway)

After I’ve tightened down the distributor, I give the motor a good zing while watching the timing light so I know how high the timing really gets.
Wasn't it a locked distributor? Anyways, I only looked with a half an eye... and I did think it was entertaining.
 
I can't understand why he took the engine to nick instead of jesse , it's not like you are far away , what two three hours . And whats even crazier not even a phone call .
This is the part that gets me. Even if the new owner got a good deal, you're still going to lay down a (relatively) large sum of money for an engine like this. If I have information about the last builder that sorted it out and they're only a couple of hours away, my first move is to call them and schedule a time to drop it off to go over everything. Seems like extremely cheap insurance given the overall investment.

Even if I'm on the other side of the continent, my first move is still to call the guy whose name is on the dyno sheet (e.g. RAMM) and get as much information as possible.
 
Wasn't it a locked distributor?

You’re not paying attention.
There is an ignition advance curve programmed into the box.

If you can’t access the curve in the box to see what it is(need a laptop), then the only way you’ll really know what the timing is doing at high rpm is to put a light on it…….. and run it up to the upper limit of the test.
 
-
Back
Top