j par
Well-hung Member
I wonder if he hit it in first gear?..
Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..
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I don't know, but I do know it was the 1st time for the juice at the track. and not the last.
A couple fenders , nose pieces and a hood were on the car within days after the crash. all primed up
j par
Well-hung Member
My plan was more of a good hooked up 3rd gear at about three and a half Grand and giving the button a squeeze for a couple seconds...
All set ups are different of course, I wouldn't necessarily worry that much of FP going below 5psi, I tried 4psi once from 6 on my rather rich cheater kit to see if ran faster, picked up a very small amount, I had a separate pump like you and my press was rock steady always, surprised yours goes down. Also short Fuel line and long N20 line is GOOD.
j par
Well-hung Member
Yes of course if it goes any lower than 5 the low fuel pressure switch one cut the ground to the solenoid and everything will shut off. Also my first setup had a really messed up setting put that Speedmaster junk. It had one short and one long fuel line and one short and one long nitrous line LOL.. I got that all fixed now it has two short lines going into the center for the fuel and two longer lines going into the nitrous from the outside..
Just waiting on the bottle heater now. when I tested the nitrous oxide out yesterday the pressure was only like 700 or so...
weedburner
Well-Known Member
I've got a bottle heater, but it's a huge pain in the *** to heat the bottle up for spontaneous use. The system on my car right now has one of those dial style fuel pressure regulators for the nitrous. I also have a small infrared temp gun in the console that I use to check the temp of the n2o bottle (bottle is in a gym bag in back of the pass seat). If I'm prep'ing for a max power run, i'll warm up the bottle. But if i'm just going out somewhere looking for fun, i'll simply dial the fuel pressure on the nitrous back to match the anticipated bottle temp and skip heating the bottle.
Of course the lower the bottle temp the lower the level of power you will get out of the system. My n20 fuel pressure regulator's dial has detents in 0.5psi increments, here's the quick/dirty rule of thumb I use to set the n2o side's fuel regulator dial to match bottle temp, along with the lower percentage of power added-
90 degree 960 psi bottle + 5.5 psi n2o fuel = 100% of jetted output
82 degree 871 psi bottle + 5.0 psi n2o fuel = 91% of jetted output
74 degree 790 psi bottle + 4.5 psi n2o fuel = 82% of jetted output
64 degree 697 psi bottle + 4.0 psi n2o fuel = 73% of jetted output
54 degree 612 psi bottle + 3.5 psi n2o fuel = 64% of jetted output
42 degree 521 psi bottle + 3.0 psi n2o fuel = 54% of jetted output
The basic thinking is if you want a 100hp system and your anticipated bottle temp is only 74 degrees, jets in the system for 120hp with a 90 degree bottle and 5.5 psi fuel pressure should net you around 100hp with 74 degree bottle and 4.5psi fuel pressure. Your AFR gauge will let you know if the same math will work for you. I don't use a fuel pressure safety switch.
Grant
Of course the lower the bottle temp the lower the level of power you will get out of the system. My n20 fuel pressure regulator's dial has detents in 0.5psi increments, here's the quick/dirty rule of thumb I use to set the n2o side's fuel regulator dial to match bottle temp, along with the lower percentage of power added-
90 degree 960 psi bottle + 5.5 psi n2o fuel = 100% of jetted output
82 degree 871 psi bottle + 5.0 psi n2o fuel = 91% of jetted output
74 degree 790 psi bottle + 4.5 psi n2o fuel = 82% of jetted output
64 degree 697 psi bottle + 4.0 psi n2o fuel = 73% of jetted output
54 degree 612 psi bottle + 3.5 psi n2o fuel = 64% of jetted output
42 degree 521 psi bottle + 3.0 psi n2o fuel = 54% of jetted output
The basic thinking is if you want a 100hp system and your anticipated bottle temp is only 74 degrees, jets in the system for 120hp with a 90 degree bottle and 5.5 psi fuel pressure should net you around 100hp with 74 degree bottle and 4.5psi fuel pressure. Your AFR gauge will let you know if the same math will work for you. I don't use a fuel pressure safety switch.
Grant
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j par
Well-hung Member
I remember you talking about calibrating for ambient temperature..
Right now it's in for a dime in for a dollar..
I went the slow route and put together what I believe is a very complete and safe system.. methodically making sure everything is in place and a safe as I can get it... Now I'm down to the last $140 for a bottle heater. I already have the switch and the fuses and the wires already to connect it up.. it's part of the nitrous armying panel already...
It'll be likely that my first try I'll just click on the heating element and by the time I get anywhere out in the country to give it a little shot it should be well warmed up.. and as far as giving it a shot at the track I'm sure by the time I drive it there it will be well heated and I'm thinking 10 or 15 minutes in between rounds should easily be enough to maintain temperature...
Long before I try the nitrous at the track I have this product called a clutch tamer I have to sort out...
...
j par
Well-hung Member
SOMEBODY STOP ME!!!..LOL...
So now I'm thinking window switch? I noticed MSD sells one for $188 and Summit sells what looks like the same thing in their own brand for $52...
I was thinking I would have it in conjunction with the low fuel pressure switch on the negative of the nitrous relay?..
If I'm behind somebody on the track I have a tendency to ignore the shift light and keep it to the floor till it hits the rev limiter.... From what I understand you don't want the nitrous on and hit the high rev limiter?... I imagine when it shuts off that it would nose down a little bit and pretty much signal me to shift?...
Right now I have my tach and shift light down low under the dash and have been wanting to remount at least my shift light again where I can see it. I don't have anyting working on the actual speedometer display in my car so I figured I could just mount it front and center there and use the light that comes on and off with the window switch for my shift light...
So now I'm thinking window switch? I noticed MSD sells one for $188 and Summit sells what looks like the same thing in their own brand for $52...
I was thinking I would have it in conjunction with the low fuel pressure switch on the negative of the nitrous relay?..
If I'm behind somebody on the track I have a tendency to ignore the shift light and keep it to the floor till it hits the rev limiter.... From what I understand you don't want the nitrous on and hit the high rev limiter?... I imagine when it shuts off that it would nose down a little bit and pretty much signal me to shift?...
Right now I have my tach and shift light down low under the dash and have been wanting to remount at least my shift light again where I can see it. I don't have anyting working on the actual speedometer display in my car so I figured I could just mount it front and center there and use the light that comes on and off with the window switch for my shift light...
j par
Well-hung Member
I'm on the borderline of gadget overload and I love it! LOL..
j par
Well-hung Member
I wish I knew the value difference besides the $135 LOL...
j par
Well-hung Member
These are the installation instructions for the summit window switch. It looks like I would have to take the ground wire that I have just outside the low pressure switch and run it back in to the blue wire? I believe running the ground through the window switch to it's black wire ground?..
My concerns become with the 3 amp capability?? Currently I have a 5 amp fuse feeding the nitrous activation switch. Which has a little green light of unknown amperage and it goes out to the trigger button on the shifter which along that coming out of it going to the full throttle switch is giving a signal to the MSD timing retard which I'm not sure how much amperage that sucks up? Then like said it continues through the full throttle switch to the nitrous relay which itself probably only takes a half amp as far as I know?..
Right now the best I can think of is putting a two and a half amp fuse into the blue wire of the window switch so it would blow if it got any more than 3 amps?..
j par
Well-hung Member
This looks like pretty much the same thing at pretty much the same price but is more of a positive activation which I assume would need it's own relay?
weedburner
Well-Known Member
I have a new in box Summit 830452-1 that you can have...
Grant
Grant
weedburner
Well-Known Member
j par
Well-hung Member
HEY!!!...
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j par
Well-hung Member
First post on page #20 (post#476)..This is where a hand drawn schematic comes in handy
I pretty much used the schematics from the low pressure cutoff switch and just added to it. where it has low pressure cutoff switch going to ground I would assume that would now go to the blue wire of said controller?..
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j par
Well-hung Member
^^^^and I have kept that schematics with my leftover nitrous parts>>>>
Have you hit the button yet.
j par
Well-hung Member
No but my wife has LOL...
She had fun with the purge button..
Still need to get the bottle heater to get it to the correct temperature which in turn will give the correct pressure...
Is your wife practicing the " SEE YA " it sounds better coming from a women's voice. lol
j par
Well-hung Member
As a matter of fact she is... She says I'll "see ya" when you come back!! I ain't getting in that damn car lol...
weedburner
Well-Known Member
Personally I would want to trigger the automatic retard from a spot closer to the nitrous solenoids. In most cases it won't make much difference. But if you come across a scenario where the retard gets triggered before the nitrous actually comes on, the engine loses power and could get pulled below your window switch's lower limit. I came across that problem when adding a nitrous launch delay timer. Retard was activated when I went full throttle, but the nitrous didn't come on until after the delay timer timed out. With no timing the engine got pulled down below the window switch before the nitrous came on, which made a bad bog even worse.
Grant
j par
Well-hung Member
I never thought of that I mostly thought of the high-end and possibly hitting the rev limiter...
j par
Well-hung Member
Also this time I will take you up on the window switch LOL as I wasn't wise enough to take your offer on the clutch Tamer years ago... If it's okay I'll just give you a call Monday morning??...
j par
Well-hung Member
I guess my thought was I could just arm the switch and at any time test the retard by tapping the shifter button without being full throttle and being able to know the timing retard was working correctly even at idle as it would idle down..
I did just use a piggyback clip with the timing retard activation wire and could move that on the other side of the full throttle switch and very close to the operation of the nitrous solenoid?..
And still with the low pressure switch jumped and the fuel pump not activated and the bottle not open and the system fully purged I could have someone trip the trigger while I trip the full throttle trigger to test the timing retard operation...
I did just use a piggyback clip with the timing retard activation wire and could move that on the other side of the full throttle switch and very close to the operation of the nitrous solenoid?..
And still with the low pressure switch jumped and the fuel pump not activated and the bottle not open and the system fully purged I could have someone trip the trigger while I trip the full throttle trigger to test the timing retard operation...
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