Ok, What have I done now... (904 problem?)

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pishta said:
If it makes you feel any better, I drove my Breeze (727/904 derivative FWD A/T) with a slow leak, one day it didnt feel right, like it was slipping. Well, drove it to work (22 miles freeway, locked up convertor all the way) and it wouldnt even go into gear after my shift. I asked the garage for a pint and it energized, checked the level and it didnt even register on the stick and that was with the pint! It took 2 more to even show H on the stick, so they can go a few miles with low fluid.
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XS2 on that. i have ran these things until the fluid was **** brown and smelled like burnt motor oil and 1 1/2 quarts down, overheated and still working. these trannies can take some torture before they let go.
 
Yeah, I had no issues when it went away for the winter.... Pulled the pan, replaced and did what I said above... Could it be something to do with the ATF+4?

Like I said, I can't in good conscience keep adding when it's showing 3/4" over the full line...
 
here is what i would do. if it were ME, i would get a clean drain pan, drain the transmission fluid, take the "spacer" out. button it back up using a regular filter. fill it up again. make sure the kickdown linkage is not getting tangled up on anything. make sure you are pumping fluid THROUGH the radiator cooler and that it is free flowing. take it out and manually shift it a few times through the gears and go from there. i use a full synthetic ATF+4 . you are good there. if it is not dropping from 3/4 over the full line, dont add any more, thats pushing it IMO


do you still have your stock pan?
i would reverse everything you did to it just to be sure your upgrade isnt causing the problem
 
Yeah that's what I was thinking, just ditch the spacer thing and try it again.... I like trying one at a time to see what works...

OK you brought up something that's peaked my interest. I just jacked up the car to take a look.... Kick down... Like I said its a manual valve body, standard pattern... I have never had the kick down hooked up. The lever is not tied back or anything, just at rest... It's been driven like this for probably 8 or more years.. I think my tranny guy said just to leave it and not worry bout it since its a manual vb.... Is this OK?... I don't think it's the problem since its been like that forever...

Thanks
 
I use the parking brake to do it in drive because thats what the service manual told me to do , I know it pumps in neutral but I don't believe it pumps to all the circuits unless it's in drive , I could be wrong about that but hey I'm no tranny guy I'm a carpenter so I use the Factory Service Manuals .
 
that is interesting because i have gotten some flack for running my MVB and not pulling the kickdown lever back and securing it. i was told it will burn up the clutches. i have driven it that way for years and never lost a trans. so i cant really say if that is a good thing or a bad thing. maybe someone with a little more experience can chime in.
 
I checked the lines to the cooler... They look good, no kinks... What's a good way to check if it's pumping thru the cooler? Just unhook one side and pump oil into a pan? What kind of psi are we talking here? Does it pump from the front tranny line to the back or vic versa?

Thanks guys, keep the ideas flowing...
 
Mine doesn't say anything it just has add and full written on it , but since he's got it jacked up and running it through the gears we're probably quibbling over a moot point in this case ,the point I was making was that you need to circulate fluid to all the circuits in order to truly fill the trans, since this is a non stock pan is there a rating on it ie . are they referred to like oil pans as 5qt 6qt etc ?
 
Have mine has check in N stamped in it... No worries, it just thru me for a loop when you said check in Drive.

No I did not see anything that said how much this pan would add. I got it from a member, came with gasket and this spacer and the longer screws...
 
are you running a remote trans fluid cooler? or is it still running through the radiator? if so, and my memory serves me, the fluid travels into the passenger side and exits the drivers side of the radiator. i dont know what kind of psi it runs, but you will know gauranteed if it is working or not because if you arent ready for it when you pull a line off , it will get very messy. the last time i did this i had an assistant shut the car off after i was sure it was pumping. maybe someone else has a better way to check this idk
 
cannucky said:
Mine doesn't say anything it just has add and full written on it , but since he's got it jacked up and running it through the gears we're probably quibbling over a moot point in this case ,the point I was making was that you need to circulate fluid to all the circuits in order to truly fill the trans, since this is a non stock pan is there a rating on it ie . are they referred to like oil pans as 5qt 6qt etc ?
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yea you got me too LOL i was taught to always check these old cars in neutral and ive never seen a dipstick that was blank. but im sure in drive would be as effective if not more so
 
Have I have a B&M style cooler... I kinda think it's another moot point, since it was fine... I can't see it being clogged and if the pressure is down it will be impossible to see with the naked eye... I think it needs to be drained and check the filter. What a pain in the A$$!
 
................OK, with a forward pattern vb u do need the kick down lever tied all the way to the rear........try that and see if it helps........a rmvb does not need the kd tied back cause the valves r eliminated ...........the pan kit is a mopar performance kit.......kim......
 
oldkimmer said:
................OK, with a forward pattern vb u do need the kick down lever tied all the way to the rear........try that and see if it helps........a rmvb does not need the kd tied back cause the valves r eliminated ...........the pan kit is a mopar performance kit.......kim......
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thank you for the clarification kim, i wasnt really sure on that one.
 
That's what I was thinking too Kim, but I'm no expert myself, guess I'm old fashioned, I still use the ole type F fluid in all my Mopars
 
OK so the kd is back, pretty much, just not tied back. The spring keeps it from going forward, it would have to tied forward... I'll go take another look. Thanks Kimmer................
 
Sorry I got my fronts and backs opposite... Needs to be tied BACK. So what I'll effects would come from not having it tied back? Like I said its been like that for a long time.
 
I personally would not use ATF+4, or 7176 as Chryler calls it. It has friction modifiers for newer transmissions. Older transmissions use Dexron fluid. When in doubt, use Amsoil as it covers all the bases. Dex has changed over the years as regulations and transmissions have changed. You can probably find only Dex III now, instead of Dex II. All GM cars now use Dex VI, which is synthetic, and they use it in every GM tranny now backdated to the first use of Dexron. I would check the clearance as has been stated, and while the fluid is out, fill with the proper Dexron fluid.

Also, I know a lot of you talk about running low not causing damage. Maybe true for older trannys, but newer Mopar are very sensitive about fluid levels. Leaking tranny cooler lines cause many newer Mopars to run low, the planetaries overheat and explode. I have sold and changed hundreds of Mopar trannys in the 2000 years. In the 90's you used to change Caravan trannys every 60K.
 
Anyone want to buy 9 and 2/3rd Liters of ATF+4... Slightly used...

Can anyone else back up the use of +4... Obviously I would rather not switch if I don't have to...
 
FWIW.... i have been running the ATF+4 full synthetic for 2 1/2 years , and my trans is as solid as it ever has been, this is my daily driver. my 1st to 2nd shift will damn near bark the tires. i also use a full synthetic dex 3 in my charger and it is just as solid.
 
This is a tough one. Pressure is 50-90 psi, fluid out front line in at back line to rear bearing. Troubleshooting chart says possible sticking accumulator (in case above/behind valve body) not easily checked. Some trucks had check valve in trans line at radiator so not the case if older car. If nothingelse was changed all I can think of is improper filter gasket alignment restricting pump intake and reducing discharge pressure. Just tossing out some ideas.
 
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