What is the fuel pressure at the carb?
May be a weak fuel pump when it gets hot
I have no clue... whats your guess its probably as good as mine lol ... I don't have a fuel pressure tester either. I have had thought about it being the fp too.
What is the fuel pressure at the carb?
May be a weak fuel pump when it gets hot
Carbs are tricky.
Quick strange story.
I had a brand new Edelbrock carb installed on my most recent BB build.
I was sure I needed the Cool Carb spacer and was all set to get one becsuse It coughed a lot when I jumped on it and the engine ran too hot.
Tried adjusting etc.
Finally brought it to an elder performance mechanic. He said Im sending your carb to my guy to rebuild it, eventhough its "new", he felt it was too lean and couldnt adjust it out.
Great results.
Since then, the car never ran better, no coughing, runs cool, and much more power than before.
So, "new" really doesn't matter.
(I never installed the cool carb spacer).
I had this carb on the past year, and never had a problem until I redid the engine and engine bay.
I don't see anything too close to the fuel lines, by the time the exhost gets to the kick up over the rear end it is pretty cool.Here are the lines from the tank. I don't know if they have ever been replaced.
My fuel guage works just fine, so that shouldn't be a fuel sending unit problem right?
.I dont know if my fuel pump has ever been replaced and if it was I don't know when. I have a rubber line that feeds from the metal stock line to the fuel pump, where the line crosses from the frame rail over to the pump
None of those are anywhere near me.
Nevermind. I see he beat me to it. I don't know what to tell you. I drive three old carbureted vehicles in the HOT HUMID GEORGIA summer and they don't do anything stupid. So I guess you can whine about something not being near you, OR you can take a drive, get some non ethanol gas and TRY it and see if it makes a difference. I have non ethanol gas all around me, but I don't use it. All my junk runs good on 10% ethanol. That's another thing to consider. What % of ethanol does the gas out there have? Different locations can have different amounts. Here, we have a maximum of 10%. My slant six Valiant runs dang good on it. If there was a car that'd exhibit vapor lock, that'd be it. The fuel line runs right up against the bottom radiator hose, around in front of the engine, then turns parallel with the vehicle center line to the carburetor. It runs right over the intake and exhaust manifolds where it;s subjected to some HOT temperatures and I have ZERO issues. I also am runnin the THICK (over 1/4") base plate insulator gasket.
Some vacuum guages double as pressure gusgesI don't have a fuel pressure tester either. I have had thought about it being the fp too
Humid air wont evaporate gas as quickly (so saturated with water, it can't hold much else). Nevada air is a natural dessicant.
You had manifolds at that time too, right? Headers were installed when you did the engine bay, if I remember correctly.
What carburetor gasket do you have under it?
A 1/2 inch wood phenolic spacer. The one a friend here on FABO recommend to me when he helped me rebuild and install everything. Ive been so dang busy with school I havent even been able to go over to his place and see him lately.
Some vacuum guages double as pressure gusges
Nevermind. I see he beat me to it. I don't know what to tell you. I drive three old carbureted vehicles in the HOT HUMID GEORGIA summer and they don't do anything stupid. So I guess you can whine about something not being near you, OR you can take a drive, get some non ethanol gas and TRY it and see if it makes a difference. I have non ethanol gas all around me, but I don't use it. All my junk runs good on 10% ethanol. That's another thing to consider. What % of ethanol does the gas out there have? Different locations can have different amounts. Here, we have a maximum of 10%. My slant six Valiant runs dang good on it. If there was a car that'd exhibit vapor lock, that'd be it. The fuel line runs right up against the bottom radiator hose, around in front of the engine, then turns parallel with the vehicle center line to the carburetor. It runs right over the intake and exhaust manifolds where it;s subjected to some HOT temperatures and I have ZERO issues. I also am runnin the THICK (over 1/4") base plate insulator gasket.
That should be a good piece. Do you have a shield of any type?
Oh I could drive my daily out to one of those stations and get gas that's not a big deal. Its just the car that would need ethenol free gas (if that was the problem) wouldn't make it out there as it is right now to get the gas, and it would be a 30-45 minute drive everytime I needed to fill it up. By the time I'm home the tank would be darn near empty again haha.
No i dont have one on there now, just the spacer. The carb doesnt get very hot, but I could add a shield. Sucks that aluminum wouldn't be a good heat shield or I could try to make one.
I can't believe how many utterly nonsense, nincompoop answers you've gotten... While unbelievable still believable...
Let me expel some of these phenomenally incompetent responses...
First it has nothing to do with if it's a Holley carburetor and Edelbrock carburetor or anything like that... And buying a $2,000 EFI kit to solve this problem is utter nonsense..
Anybody who has to have an Edelbrock installed.. then take it to a mechanic who can't make it leaner by changing metering rods or jets has the wrong mechanic especially if that mechanic has to send it to a carburetor Guru...
What kind of gas you put in there whether it's ethanol or non ethanol ain't going to make a flying scrap of difference...
If your carburetor was emptying out when you hit the throttle and that steam comes out of there that's like said vapor from there being fuel in the carburetor and the accelerator pump squirting it out onto the hot manifold creating vapor type steam.
If it's a clogged fuel line or fuel pump that's not working you should be able to throw a little splash of gas in the carburetor after it dies and it should fire right back up at least momentarily while that little bit of gas you put in there is burning...
If all that settled its electrical... and definitely not your plugs or wires unless your plugs got totally fouled and your wires got burnt through... Which is still electrical..
I'm liking the ballast resistor theory because at worst case scenario it's only five or six bucks and you should have a spare in your glove box anyways... Cheaper than two spark plugs...
I'll go and get a resistor and try that out as well. Ive seen guys on the car shows (rust valley restoration is my favorite one ) pour gas in the carbs, but ive never done it. I always worry I'm going to **** something up, like pour to much and cause a fire... i guess if that happened I'd be glad I trippled the insured value on it haha.
I also will get some spare 90 boots, and redo my 5/7 plugs as I have burnt through one of mine before. Luckily I have 2 sets of plugs, thats why they are mismatched on the engine currently.
My point is, he's gotta START somewhere, agreed? Whether it's fuel, electronic, or "whathehellever", he's gotta get outta the forums and TRY something, right? Going to get a 5 gallon can of gas filled is a pretty easy thing to do. Whether he drains the tank, or feeds it from the remote tank, that will tell him real quick if the gas is the problem. It may not be, because as you say, the weather is different....and you're right. But what if his gas has say 20% ethanol? That levels the playing field, doesn't it? The fact is, WE don't know, because we're trying to diagnose over the internet. So he HAS to start somewhere.
I can't believe how many utterly nonsense, nincompoop answers you've gotten... While unbelievable still believable...
Let me expel some of these phenomenally incompetent responses...
First it has nothing to do with if it's a Holley carburetor and Edelbrock carburetor or anything like that... And buying a $2,000 EFI kit to solve this problem is utter nonsense..
Anybody who has to have an Edelbrock installed.. then take it to a mechanic who can't make it leaner by changing metering rods or jets has the wrong mechanic especially if that mechanic has to send it to a carburetor Guru...
What kind of gas you put in there whether it's ethanol or non ethanol ain't going to make a flying scrap of difference...
If your carburetor was emptying out when you hit the throttle and that steam comes out of there that's like said vapor from there being fuel in the carburetor and the accelerator pump squirting it out onto the hot manifold creating vapor type steam.
If it's a clogged fuel line or fuel pump that's not working you should be able to throw a little splash of gas in the carburetor after it dies and it should fire right back up at least momentarily while that little bit of gas you put in there is burning...
If all that settled its electrical... and definitely not your plugs or wires unless your plugs got totally fouled and your wires got burnt through... Which is still electrical..
I'm liking the ballast resistor theory because at worst case scenario it's only five or six bucks and you should have a spare in your glove box anyways... Cheaper than two spark plugs...