Post up your cheap paint jobs!

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efriedrich said:
That scamp is sick, thats no Maaco job, there is a story behind that $350 paint job.
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I done some work on my buddies 67 cuda and he paints cars for a living.I bought the paint and he fixed and painted it for me.So it pays to have buddies.I had $350.00 bucks in the paint.
 

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Ace hardware "rust stop" safety red.
About 50 bucks painted right where it sits in the pic.
Paint thinned with mineral spirits for slow dry time.
 

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I love to see garage paint jobs due to the fact alot of people on FABO can only dream of sending car for a high dollar paint work.
 
I'm impressed. They look good in the photos.

What should a good, driver quality but not show car quality paint job cost at an auto body shop?
 
$350-$400 range.
it's boat paint and hard as granite!
 

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First picture shows car as it was originally painted by me in my driveway . Cost about $500-600 in materials (got the epoxy primer for free from work, it was expired Deft Aircraft paint).

The next picture show the replacement hood with HEMI scoop installed on car. Paint costs about $225 (expensive PPG Concept Organisol Black paint).

Bob
 

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Abodybomber said:
My guess on the grey,home prepped and Maaco.Love the Vega!
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Back in 1987, I bought a wrecked Dodge Omni with a VW motor from the PA State Auction for $425 for my girlfriend. Did all the body work and prep myself and took it in to Maaco for paint. It came out beautiful.

Sorry, I don't think I have any pictures.
 
clhyer said:
Not counting bondo, primer or stripes; 2 gal. rustoleum, 2 qts. acetone and 1 gal. of cheap clear = $150
C
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Just curious, what kind of clear over rustoleum.

I saw a long thread about a nice Charger done in orange rustoleum by rolling several thinned coats and wet sanding between. Turned out nice and has held up.
 
Idaho said:
Just curious, what kind of clear over rustoleum.

I saw a long thread about a nice Charger done in orange rustoleum by rolling several thinned coats and wet sanding between. Turned out nice and has held up.
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thats where i got the idea to do mine. that thread mentions interlux brightside paint as a better alternative to using rustoleum, so thats what i used. only difference was that i thinned it down and sprayed it with two heavy coats, sanding in between coats.
 
John Deere green implement paint from Tractor Supply. $35 for the paint, $5 for hardener and about $10 worth of sandpaper.

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Just curious, what kind of clear over rustoleum.

I saw a long thread about a nice Charger done in orange rustoleum by rolling several thinned coats and wet sanding between. Turned out nice and has held up.


That's what made me decide to go Rustoleum also. I did spray it on, though. Gave it a couple months after the last coat of black before the clear went on. The clear I used was called High Teck and was about $90 for a gal. which included the activator. It looks good and I have a big grin when I'm driving it around.
C

http://www.usaautosupply.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_10&products_id=96
 
racerbob said:
First picture shows car as it was originally painted by me in my driveway . Cost about $500-600 in materials (got the epoxy primer for free from work, it was expired Deft Aircraft paint).

The next picture show the replacement hood with HEMI scoop installed on car. Paint costs about $225 (expensive PPG Concept Organisol Black paint).

Bob
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I also scored 7 gals of expired deft epoxy primer from work.
I am using it on my duster.
 
I used to mix paint at a Napa store I workrd at.The prices to the parts store was insane. Our top of the line clear(2002)our price was about 80 to 90 a gallon(What the store paid for it).Shops would pay 125 to 150 for the stuff,crazy.Paying for the Environmental fees from our govt.I like the Rustoleum and basic single stage jobs.Last time I sold a gollon of GM torch red(2003),the gallon of base was between 400 and 450.Too much for my broke ***.
 
pauly v.100 said:
thats where i got the idea to do mine. that thread mentions interlux brightside paint as a better alternative to using rustoleum, so thats what i used. only difference was that i thinned it down and sprayed it with two heavy coats, sanding in between coats.
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Ok now I'm curious again. How many miles, how long since yours was done and hows it holding up?

Clhyer, how bout yours?

I know the paint industry does a lot of research that drives up their costs but I suspect a lot of their research goes toward things like waterborne products with lower VOCs to meet green laws, and toward making paint that suits production facilities so you're not necessarily getting great performance for the extra money. The first low VOC paints were crap - lots of expensive cars with paint that peeled.
 
my car isn't on the road yet. i got the front glass in a couple days ago and i still have new glass channel rubber and door weatherstrippng to install yet. what i can say is that the brightside paint that i used was a single stage urethane that has alot of UV protection in it which was one of the main reasons i used it (i'm in hawaii). it wasn't easy to work with because its hard as hell and difficult to sand, but when all was said and done I'm super stoked about the finished product. it will never be a show car, thats not what i wanted, but for a driver the paint looks fabtastic!!
 
hw612 said:
let me see some cars with bad body work and a cheap paint job, please specify what paint youve got goin on. i was gonna do the whole nice straight shiney quality paint job, but i realize how much its gonna cost and how much i HATE working with bondo. so let me see some rattle can and summit or duplicolor paint jobs.
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You can skimp on cheap paint....it's only going to look as good as the prep work you put into it however. Ask em how much time they have into it before spraying, or what it looked like before they started. Vice versa, You can spend 2 hours on prep work and spray with HoK and its still going to look like hammered ***.
 
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