Seeking advice on how to extract broken lug bolts

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Righty Tighty

Righty Tighty

Blame it on the dog
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Hey FABO, somehow I broke a couple lug bolts on my forklift. They're threaded into blind holes, one is pretty close to the surface, and the other is about 1/2" in (referring to the broken ends stuck in the holes).

I have a mag drill, and so far, my plan is to drill out what I can while staying away from the threads, then use a bolt extractor. I've had decent luck with bolt extractors in the past, but I'm wondering if anyone has a better idea. Whatcha guys got?

I'm also not experienced with lug bolts. Can the conical washer be re-used? I'm having a heck of a time finding replacement bolts with the washers.
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So the company I owndoes heavy equipment welder and repair. I’ve worked on stuff like this for over 40years.

The axle flange that bolts to that if you undo that castle looking nut in the center will allow you to remove that wheel hub that the broken axle stud is in and have access to the back side. You will need to replace the seal while in there. It is no different than how a rear axle in a full floating truck rear end works. The hub you see there actually rides on two tapered roller bearings and races and floats independently. The slide in axle connects it to the rear end and turns the wheel.
Hope that helps. I know it is scary taking apart something g you may not know how it works but having the flange separate will give you way more confidence getting the broken bolt out. Those cones (wedges) on the bolt center and spread out the load. You need to take a small chisel and open them up just enough down the split to get it off. Just a Tiny amount and there looks to be some silicon on there as well. They need to move free for reassembly.
 
If your dead set against removing the flange or it is not drilled all the way thru then a plasma cutter on gouge setting will work. Start at the middle of the bolt and blast straight in. Slow and steady busts till you find the bottom of the hole.
Then cut one side to threads. And once cool you should be able to use a screw driver to spin out the broken parts. “Yes” the threads will get touched by the torch. Be gentle and do the least amount of damage as possible and clean up with a tap and die afterwards.
 
Syleng1 said:
So the company I owndoes heavy equipment welder and repair. I’ve worked on stuff like this for over 40years.

The axle flange that bolts to that if you undo that castle looking nut in the center will allow you to remove that wheel hub that the broken axle stud is in and have access to the back side. You will need to replace the seal while in there. It is no different than how a rear axle in a full floating truck rear end works. The hub you see there actually rides on two tapered roller bearings and races and floats independently. The slide in axle connects it to the rear end and turns the wheel.
Hope that helps. I know it is scary taking apart something g you may not know how it works but having the flange separate will give you way more confidence getting the broken bolt out. Those cones (wedges) on the bolt center and spread out the load. You need to take a small chisel and open them up just enough down the split to get it off. Just a Tiny amount and there looks to be some silicon on there as well. They need to move free for reassembly.
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Thanks! I'm not sure if it makes a difference,but this is the front (drive) wheel. From what I can see, the bolt holes are blind and I wouldn't have access to the other side of I remove the hub. However, I don't think it would be a bad idea to replace the seals while I have the wheel off, so I might remove the hub anyway.
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I like the plasma cutter idea, think I'll try that when I'm at the shop tomorrow. And I was planning on running a tap or thread chaser anyway just to clean them up.
 
Someone really GOOD with a TIG could go in there and build those broken bolts up flush and weld nuts on and back them out. I have a friend who is that good in Macon. I've seen him get some out of heavy equipment at a rock quarry that were broken off over an inch deep. I was amazed.
 
Help with a broken bolt drilling procedure.

IF you have a few threads accessable in the hole. Find a bolt with the same thread size, drill a hole down the center from the thread end. Cut the bolt so you have a threaded hollow tube. Screw the tube into the hole. That way you have a centering device to start a pilot holes for drilling.

Either way I would listen to Syleng1!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Someone really GOOD with a TIG could go in there and build those broken bolts up flush and weld nuts on and back them out. I have a friend who is that good in Macon. I've seen him get some out of heavy equipment at a rock quarry that were broken off over an inch deep. I was amazed.
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I don't know why this idea wouldn't work with a MIG welder too. The heat cycles will help too.
 
Righty Tighty said:
Thanks! I'm not sure if it makes a difference,but this is the front (drive) wheel. From what I can see, the bolt holes are blind and I wouldn't have access to the other side of I remove the hub. However, I don't think it would be a bad idea to replace the seals while I have the wheel off, so I might remove the hub anyway.
View attachment 1716325691

I like the plasma cutter idea, think I'll try that when I'm at the shop tomorrow. And I was planning on running a tap or thread chaser anyway just to clean them up.
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Excellent. I have a forklift and have owned a few so I get the front wheel drive thing. You will do good. Just slow and think about each step before doing it. Also- Dana’s idea about pre drilling a bolt is also a great idea. I can’t wait to try that.
 
First, toss those broken bolt extractors in the trash. By the time you get those studs drilled and hammer those extractors in, they'll either lock the remnant in place permanently or break off and **** you even harder.

Second, mag drill you say?
Left hand drill bits. Start small and get it centered, size up and drill in increments. 90% of the time they'll either unthread the remnant when they hook up, or they will ream the bolt next to the threads and allow you to tap it loose and peel it out.

Broken bolt extractors are flawed fundamentally and only work if a bolt is broken from being over tightened and having the head ripped off. Because they're hardened, they like to break off and really ruin your day.
 
jos51700 said:
First, toss those broken bolt extractors in the trash. By the time you get those studs drilled and hammer those extractors in, they'll either lock the remnant in place permanently or break off and **** you even harder.

Second, mag drill you say?
Left hand drill bits. Start small and get it centered, size up and drill in increments. 90% of the time they'll either unthread the remnant when they hook up, or they will ream the bolt next to the threads and allow you to tap it loose and peel it out.

Broken bolt extractors are flawed fundamentally and only work if a bolt is broken from being over tightened and having the head ripped off. Because they're hardened, they like to break off and really ruin your day.
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Ive done this to extract a broken shift lever screw on my KTM . I had a pilot hub machined to keep it centered .

That bolt is identical to the hub caps on my 1993 Mazda b2600i 4x4. Which leads me to believe it is a widely used fastener for hubs .
 
in your case this may have been a Lefty Tighty application…. Lol

You could have a pilot hub made in which the nose fits inside the lug hole to keep it centered and a pilot hole in the center of that to guide a left hand bit and keep it from walking towards the threads .
 
It would be impressive to see a skilled welder perform that task (I am not that welder). I think I'm gonna try the plasma gouging technique, mostly because I'm interested to see how it'll work.

The other one I'll try Dana's idea and then use a LH drill bit on the mag drill. The only thing I'm not sure about is whether the drill will be too big or not. We shall see tomorrow. I appreciate all the input so far.

@Syleng1 You're absolutely right -- it's nerve racking taking things apart when you don't know what's coming.

mbaird said:
That bolt is identical to the hub caps on my 1993 Mazda b2600i 4x4. Which leads me to believe it is a widely used fastener for hubs .
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I have found some that are close, but no exact matches *yet*. There are a couple parts stores I'll hit up tomorrow.
mbaird said:
in your case this may have been a Lefty Tighty application…. Lol

You could have a pilot hub made in which the nose fits inside the lug hole to keep it centered and a pilot hole in the center of that to guide a left hand bit and keep it from walking towards the threads .
Click to expand...
You know, I just remembered I have some drill bushings knocking around somewhere. Now I just need to find them...
 
Righty Tighty said:
Holy smokes! Never knew those existed. I wonder how that works. The flux creates slag that fills the threads, preventing the weld from sticking?
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yup hold a nut over the hole and fill er up . weld around the top of the nut or it will wind off and leave a stud or you can grab the stud with vice grips .
 
Bodyperson said:
I don't know why this idea wouldn't work with a MIG welder too. The heat cycles will help too.
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It would, but you'd have to be really, REALLY good aiming the gun. TIG is much more accurate.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It would, but you'd have to be really, REALLY good aiming the gun. TIG is much more accurate.
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Either one is an issue if you cant get the initial penetration. I can see TIG having the edge on that issue. Just not by me.
 
Re-drill and Tap 6 new holes.

20241110_162539.jpg


Making up a drilling jig with 3/16" starter holes will assist to keep things on center, same bolt pattern as the wheel bolt pattern.

Can bolt on the drilling jig with 2 of the remaining original threaded wheel stud holes.

Drill up to proper thread tap size, then tap the new threads. Just like new.


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i payed 86 bucks a pound and a pound will last a long time just keep them dry . there also good for welding cast iron or hard surfacing .
 
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