Shift Kit

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7dswinger said:
I read both of them and then noticed that lol

Uh I drilled the hole to .140 I believe, no where close to 3/16 and not over .150, I believe I didn't make a not (should have though). When I drop the pan off again, since I have to since the drain plug I installed leaks a bit so I'm gonna silver solder it to the pan, I'll check what I drilled them too but I believe .142 (9/64). I looked at what ration the lever was but I couldn't find any markings on it.

I'll look at the throttle pressure, I was gonna check it anyways, haven't in awhile.

The accumulator had one spring as far as I know, I didn't pull it out of the bore it was in. Should I make the rod as long as the spring is so it's held up to the farthest position?
Click to expand...

Block it from moving as much as possible without interfering with the seating of the valve body.
There is an actual measurement for the length of the blocking material but I don't have it handy right now.
I'll see if I can find it.
 
7dswinger said:
I read both of them and then noticed that lol

Uh I drilled the hole to .140 I believe, no where close to 3/16 and not over .150, I believe I didn't make a not (should have though). When I drop the pan off again, since I have to since the drain plug I installed leaks a bit so I'm gonna silver solder it to the pan, I'll check what I drilled them too but I believe .142 (9/64). I looked at what ration the lever was but I couldn't find any markings on it.

I'll look at the throttle pressure, I was gonna check it anyways, haven't in awhile.

The accumulator had one spring as far as I know, I didn't pull it out of the bore it was in. Should I make the rod as long as the spring is so it's held up to the farthest position?
Click to expand...

Make the spacer 2-7/8~3" long. You want it long enough to stop the movement of the accumulator but not so long it won't let the valve body tighten down like it should.

No # on the lever. That's odd. All I've seen were stamped. It's usually on the end near the servo. Maybe it was on the front side which isn't easy to see with the trans in place. You may have to back the band adjusment way off, possibly even remove the band strut so the lever drops down to see the number. In case you misunderstood I'm talking about the front band, not the back band.

If you haven't checked the throttle pressure you might get lucky and it be backed off. If so, tightening it up may make all the difference your after.
 
Yes the front band, this thingy
http://www.chicagoconnection.us/images/mopar/P4529023AB.jpg
I could have easily missed it though, I'll look again when I get the chance with a good light.
I've got CPR class in the mourning so it'll have to wait till I get home (took a cpr class last year but they jipped me and gave me a first aid cert. instead.....) lol

I've got some wooden dowels I can cut down to get the length right and then I'll machine an aluminum one down to the correct length unless one makes them but I haven't found any yet.
 
I seem to remember that making the 2-3 shift real stiff was harmfull to something.
(Don't remember what or why though)
Maybe just kinda hard on the direct clutches?
Not to make anyone nervous or anything I have also seen small diameter blocking rods go right through the accumulator cover part on the valve body on a hard 1-2 shift.

Ah, I see the rod has been addressed already.
 
I was going to make the rod around 1/2 inch thick but damn, what'd they do, make it an 1/4 think and sharpen the end LOL

I don't want it stupidly stiff, but just a little stiffer. Maybe I'll just adjust the throttle pressure and do the rod and leave it at that.

And now I'm thinking up stepping it to a tf-3 kit and installing a floor shift but I think I'll leave that to when I do the rebuild, and make the console, put the bucket seats etc. etc. etc.. the plans are forming hahaha
 
7dswinger said:
I was going to make the rod around 1/2 inch thick but damn, what'd they do, make it an 1/4 think and sharpen the end LOL

I don't want it stupidly stiff, but just a little stiffer. Maybe I'll just adjust the throttle pressure and do the rod and leave it at that.

And now I'm thinking up stepping it to a tf-3 kit and installing a floor shift but I think I'll leave that to when I do the rebuild, and make the console, put the bucket seats etc. etc. etc.. the plans are forming hahaha
Click to expand...

I think that by the time you get it blocked and everything adjusted you will be fine with it.
Give it some time, because MOST people find out they over did it when they go past the TF2 kit.

I redid one three times for a guy because every time I brought it back to him he said "I'd really like it a little firmer"
When I got done with it, the glove box door would pop open at every 1-2 shift. (he was happy for about a week till the coolness wore of and he had to daily drive it)

Oh, and it was a peice of 5/16 fuel line that went through the VB.
 
TrailBeast said:
I seem to remember that making the 2-3 shift real stiff was harmfull to something.
(Don't remember what or why though)
Maybe just kinda hard on the direct clutches?
Click to expand...

The only issue I've seen, and mind you this mainly applies to 727's but a 904 is so similar it could be the same for them, is if you go too far it may overlap on the 2-3 shift. 904's do have that funky single large spring in the front clutch pack that isn't the greatest so they may be worse.

TrailBeast said:
I think that by the time you get it blocked and everything adjusted you will be fine with it.
Give it some time, because MOST people find out they over did it when they go past the TF2 kit.

I redid one three times for a guy because every time I brought it back to him he said "I'd really like it a little firmer"
When I got done with it, the glove box door would pop open at every 1-2 shift. (he was happy for about a week till the coolness wore of and he had to daily drive it)

LOL... I got a buddy like that. He thinks that if it don't pop open the glove box it isn't good enough.
Click to expand...
Oh, and it was a peice of 5/16 fuel line that went through the VB.
Click to expand...

5/16 fuel line is so thin wall that doesn't surprise me.
 
7dswinger said:
Yes the front band, this thingy
http://www.chicagoconnection.us/images/mopar/P4529023AB.jpg
I could have easily missed it though, I'll look again when I get the chance with a good light.
I've got CPR class in the mourning so it'll have to wait till I get home (took a cpr class last year but they jipped me and gave me a first aid cert. instead.....) lol

I've got some wooden dowels I can cut down to get the length right and then I'll machine an aluminum one down to the correct length unless one makes them but I haven't found any yet.
Click to expand...

Yep that's the right lever.

Good luck with the CPR class. We had one scheduled at church but at the last minute the instructor came down with the flu so it got cancelled. Hope they reschedule it.

I don't think anyone sells the spacer seperatly. Mopar used to have a shift improver kit and it was in it but I haven't seen it for yrs. I measured the depth once on a 727 and it was a few thousandths over 3" so I cut them to 3" and if the valve body sets down good I let it fly at that. You may have to grind it down a little but 3" is a good starting place. It really doesn't need to be longer. Not one of those things that needs to be precise, just close.

7dswinger said:
I was going to make the rod around 1/2 inch thick but damn, what'd they do, make it an 1/4 think and sharpen the end LOL

I don't want it stupidly stiff, but just a little stiffer. Maybe I'll just adjust the throttle pressure and do the rod and leave it at that.

And now I'm thinking up stepping it to a tf-3 kit and installing a floor shift but I think I'll leave that to when I do the rebuild, and make the console, put the bucket seats etc. etc. etc.. the plans are forming hahaha
Click to expand...

1/2 diameter may be a little too big. I bought a stick of 3/8" aluminum round rod at Rural king and cut them from that.

LOL.... Sounds like the bug has bitten.. My wife sometimes gets on to me cause I constantly want to upgrade things on the Cuda.
 
fishy68 said:
LOL.... Sounds like the bug has bitten.. My wife sometimes gets on to me cause I constantly want to upgrade things on the Cuda.
Click to expand...

hahaha tell me about it, I buy a new bike and the first think I do is start tearing into it upgrading this or that

I don't think anyone sells the spacer seperatly. Mopar used to have a shift improver kit and it was in it but I haven't seen it for yrs. I measured the depth once on a 727 and it was a few thousandths over 3" so I cut them to 3" and if the valve body sets down good I let it fly at that. You may have to grind it down a little but 3" is a good starting place. It really doesn't need to be longer. Not one of those things that needs to be precise, just close.
Click to expand...

I'll cut it to 3'' and see how it fits.

1/2 diameter may be a little too big. I bought a stick of 3/8" aluminum round rod at Rural king and cut them from that.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, I'm just worried about it getting wedged sideways somehow, I was planning on taking a 3'' piece and turning it down to a 1/2'' diameter and making a bottom to sit in the space on the VB plate. Guess I just like making this way more complicated then they need to be :mrgreen:
 
fishy68 said:
The only issue I've seen, and mind you this mainly applies to 727's but a 904 is so similar it could be the same for them, is if you go too far it may overlap on the 2-3 shift. 904's do have that funky single large spring in the front clutch pack that isn't the greatest so they may be worse.
QUOTE]

True.
Click to expand...
 
7dswinger said:
hahaha tell me about it, I buy a new bike and the first think I do is start tearing into it upgrading this or that



I'll cut it to 3'' and see how it fits.



Sounds good, I'm just worried about it getting wedged sideways somehow, I was planning on taking a 3'' piece and turning it down to a 1/2'' diameter and making a bottom to sit in the space on the VB plate. Guess I just like making this way more complicated then they need to be :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

You could shove a rock in there and it would work exactly the same, so maybe you are overcomplicating it.:D

One more small detail some people do is to use D rings (solid rubber) ring to stop ALL fluid from bypassing the accumulator when second comes on.
No biggie though, just what some do for an absolute seal around the rings.
 
TrailBeast said:
fishy68 said:
The only issue I've seen, and mind you this mainly applies to 727's but a 904 is so similar it could be the same for them, is if you go too far it may overlap on the 2-3 shift. 904's do have that funky single large spring in the front clutch pack that isn't the greatest so they may be worse.
QUOTE]

True.
Click to expand...

I'll see what the bar does, if it does anything negative I'll put the spring back in and leave it where it sits. How can you tell if it's overlapping?
Click to expand...
 
7dswinger said:
TrailBeast said:
I'll see what the bar does, if it does anything negative I'll put the spring back in and leave it where it sits. How can you tell if it's overlapping?
Click to expand...

I'm sure the bar will be fine.

It's kind of a feeling like your driving in mud for a second right between 2nd and third.
Hard to explain, might feel like your driving into a strong headwind for a second as it shifts.

I would recommend you let it go the way it is, except maybe open up the 2-3 oil flow holes in the plate a little more.
You should make sure all you other shifts and throttle pressure adjustments are at a good point first.
Click to expand...
 
I adjusted the throttle pressure and it was off by a bit and that helped a fair. I may just leave it the way it is at the moment as the adjustment made it allot firmer though I may stick the bar in and see what that does.
 
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