about same here. Our expected 'coating' of snow has passed one inch and still going.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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Got a little more wood stacked. That should be good for 2 weeks or so. Will probably run some more up to the house ASAP and refill the stairway. I usually let it sit in there a few days to dry out, but I have it tarped outside so should be good as is.
PosiRon
Hey, technically it's an A-Body
That must be the 1/2"-drive version then. Here is the 3/8"-drive version, from Halifax Homemade Tool Co.They make cake in both 1/2" and 3/8" drive...
Hoppy is a generally torque-free guy who makes fun of me for torqueing everything. I just continue on, saying "Every bolt has a torque."
PosiRon
Hey, technically it's an A-Body
Why is the spec for setting the steering box tension in tenths of an inch-pound? Who in the world makes a 10ths-inch-pound torque wrench?
How many tenths? That probably doesn't even register on the white knuckle scale.
my grandfather has one from when he built engines for Cummins back in the 60s, it reads in tenths of an inch pound. Why? I don't know but its there.
Well the wife's car fired right up looks like charging voltage is 13.9 to 14.1 I plugged in the scan tool and clear the codes it was just an electronic throttle code probably due to the fact that it had a dead battery all seems good
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Here ya go TMM, picture of an obscure tool I used today for melding fabricated dash to existing contours. Thing sits in your box for years unused but sure was handy today.
I couldn't find one one for reasonable cost considering how little it was going to be used.How many tenths? That probably doesn't even register on the white knuckle scale.
Instead I bought a cheap spring scale (baby fish scale) and used that on the end of a wrench.
Can also hook it to the steering wheel if the steering box is in the car.
Have at least two here now. Funny how some tools just show up over time. I use them a few times a year to help with molding profiles (woodwork; trim, sash, railings, etc).
PosiRon
Hey, technically it's an A-Body
How many tenths? That probably doesn't even register on the white knuckle scale.
I was mistaken; the specs are in tenths N.m, which is in the low inch-pounds, like, 0.6-1.0 N.m = 5 - 8 inch-lbs worm gear preload, plus 0.5 - 1.2 N.m = 4 - 10 inch-lbs over-center preload. I don't anyone who ever checks this though, 'cause I don't know anyone who has a torque wrench that will read in the single digits of inch-lbs. Generally people just loosen the locknut, tighten the worm-gear preloader with the wheels on the ground 'til the steering wheel wander feels acceptable, then jack the front wheels off the ground, take off the rims, turn the worm gear preloader until they just start to feel some resistance in the steering, then back it off an eighth of a turn and set the locknut. Then drive it around, see if it feels OK, and if not, do it again until it does feel OK. Ya' supposedly can't hurt it by leaving it too loose - Your steering will just feel - to use a Picksburgh word - lurpy. But ya' can wreck your worm gear and/or tensioner if you get it too tight. At any rate, this is the supposedly-correct way - https://www.midweststeering.com/wp-content/uploads/Sag-525-Serv.pdf
PosiRon
Hey, technically it's an A-Body
It must be Friday-Fabricated-Seldom-Used-Tool Day. The mystery tool from Halifax Homemade, that I put on here earlier, is for getting at the distributor hold-down bolt when you're timing a car that has the distributor up against the firewall.
PosiRon
Hey, technically it's an A-Body
No Jalepenos?
Out.
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So just thinking out loud as I need to drop oil pan again on modern Hemi and swap some crank bolts for PU tube support. The need to adhere to actual torque spec guide lines vs calibrated elbow is becoming more important in my humble opinion.
Again in my opinion, but in a large part as a result of the utilization of more and more modern materials. The materials used, are getting stronger and stronger yet thinner and lighter (more flex) thus resulting in a more pronounced need to adhere to the OEM guidelines on torque spec values on modern components.
Case in point the Milodon oil pans for conversions with Gen 3. There are about a million postings explains how bad they leak. I can only speak for the one I have but I just have not found that to be true for me. I follow the torque spec guidelines and wa la no leaks.
Please note the disclaimer I am not a actual mechanic, more of a parts changer if you will. Stay warm guys!
Again in my opinion, but in a large part as a result of the utilization of more and more modern materials. The materials used, are getting stronger and stronger yet thinner and lighter (more flex) thus resulting in a more pronounced need to adhere to the OEM guidelines on torque spec values on modern components.
Case in point the Milodon oil pans for conversions with Gen 3. There are about a million postings explains how bad they leak. I can only speak for the one I have but I just have not found that to be true for me. I follow the torque spec guidelines and wa la no leaks.
Please note the disclaimer I am not a actual mechanic, more of a parts changer if you will. Stay warm guys!
We (MAC Tools) used to have 2 catalog pages full of distributor wrenches. Other than the universal one, I haven't sold one for decades. They haven't been available for that long as well. LOL
Agreed. A lot of torque to yield nowdays. You need to be precise now days for sure.
I tell you what. If the radar looks good about 2 this afternoon it's off to KCRP for Late Models I go. Course getting home may be an issue.
Bring your canoe just in case...
No doubt it is more critical on the newer stuff. But, even in by old Plymouth FSM I have never seen reference to a 'smidge' or a 'c*** hair'
Is she cute????
For a redneck, that's a full sentence with no further explaining needed...
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