Not all. My Buick didn't do it but I don't know if it has a base idle parameter in the software or the idle speed is saved in the computer.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
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zkx14
Duster De-ruster
Just saw a good commercial for Buick. Old guy standing by car in front of dealership building. Has several brands dealerships but never saw him before.
" Hi, This is Jack Giambalvo. Yep, Jack Giambalvo. You probably thought I was dead. I'm here to talk to you about Buick. Yep Buick. You probably thought they were dead too....." lol
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
That's how I thought they all worked. Why wouldn't it just be in the computer? If it's already there anyway, what part needs to 'learn' the idle. I don't get it.
Just drinking coffee and waiting for the temp to come up so I can go check some oil wells.
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
So, you will be checking them sometime in April?
I think some computers aren't programmed or designed to remember or programmed with a base idle.
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
I know some people like that...
No wonder why IAC's don't work when they get cold. They're not designed to.
Idle Air Control Valve; Our idle air control valve uses a polymer blended, isotropic neodymium/iron/boron magnet to provide accurate control of the pintle and airflow ensuring accurate operation. Every idle air control valve is manufactured with epichlorohydrin material to withstand resistance of vehicle temperatures ranging from -40 deg. F to 257 deg. F. to prevent any loss of functionality. The rubber seal is made of Viton material to provide a closely fitted air tight sealant and contamination prevention. Each connector and terminal is constructed with OE quality materials to ensure an exact fit connection, resuming peak conductivity to the engine wiring harness, and resulting in a precise engine performance.
Brand Information
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Idle Air Control Valve; Our idle air control valve uses a polymer blended, isotropic neodymium/iron/boron magnet to provide accurate control of the pintle and airflow ensuring accurate operation. Every idle air control valve is manufactured with epichlorohydrin material to withstand resistance of vehicle temperatures ranging from -40 deg. F to 257 deg. F. to prevent any loss of functionality. The rubber seal is made of Viton material to provide a closely fitted air tight sealant and contamination prevention. Each connector and terminal is constructed with OE quality materials to ensure an exact fit connection, resuming peak conductivity to the engine wiring harness, and resulting in a precise engine performance.
Brand Information
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I'm installing a IAC for sure. Even when warm it barely idles at 400 rpm and stalls most of the time. (6 is the first year of OBD2 so there isn't much info on the scan tool. 
lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
don't you wish you could just turn a screw!?I'm installing a IAC for sure. Even when warm it barely idles at 400 rpm and stalls most of the time. (6 is the first year of OBD2 so there isn't much info on the scan tool.
Yep. When it works it works good. When it doesn't it can be a pain.
Yup. Low cranking voltage gives ecu a bad headache...
Had an 88 ramcharger, idle air was a servo that activated the throttle. Turning a screw on that one turned it into a hot mess...follow the procedure and it worked fine.
They have a base idle. Iac is a stepper motor. Whilst cranking the ecu looks at throttle position and coolant temp and mass air flow.if voltage drops below the 10 volt threshold the sensors feed the ecu false readings. It wont correct until is has a proper drive cycle.
Which involves a cold start.
Weak battery wont support a good clean drive cycle.
Another thing I would like to try b/4 I put a IAC on, I want to start it with the 4wd engaged. I think the actuator leaks vacuum and it idles a bit slower and more rough when in 4 wheel. If it starts and doesn't idle, shift out of 4 wheel and try again. A good size vacuum leak might overcome the slow idle/cold and the IAC can't compensate. It might save me $40 and a unnecessary part. I haven't had the issue until I started using the 4 wheel drive a couple weeks ago. Just thinking out loud.
This sounds a bit like what my 89 Suburban was doing, could either rough idle or stall occasionally at idle speed, or stumble off idle at low acceleration speeds. It did throw a code OBD1 and accurately called out the TPS. I tested it with a voltmeter and yep the voltage fell flat just off idle. Probably not your issue though with no code. Good luck!
I thought about the TPS as well. Both can act about the same. If it wasn't zero ° out I wouldn't mind messing with it. May be later I will get the big scanner out and see if it tells me anything more.
Lol and I'm waiting for it to hit upper 30's to go do my stuff this a.m. I don't know if temp can be a factor but when something is electro mechanical like the TPS you are wise I think to keep it in mind, again, good luck and NO GREMLINS. Show yourself!!!
Those are made across town from me.
We talking a dodge i presume. 4wd engages with vacuum and also disengages with vacuum. If its leaking you will end up shredding the coupler and shafts. It doesent take much.
lilfontleroy
annoyinglilLeroy
coffee worn off = reality sinking in
They're big and ugly but tough. They are axle shaft breakers though. LOL
Same company (Oshkosh Corporation) that makes the military PLS, HET, HEMMIT
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