Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Rainy Day Auto said:
You know what newer vehicles are good for??

Donor magnum and roller rocker engines for old cars :lol::poke:
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Just because you can’t adapt to modern technology doesn’t mean there is anything wrong with it.

It’s the computer age and it isn’t that hard to understand how things work...unless you just don’t want to.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
You should have seen me yesterday, I was changing a tire with a 20 lb maul.
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When you are my size and weight, cheater bars are your friends. I have a good sized section of galvanized fence post pipe tucked in the trunk right behind the rear seat. It slips right over the beaker bar and makes lugnuts a yawnable task. Saves me a work out
 
zkx14 said:
OK, but how does that cause the horn to go off intermittently? And even if it can,
wouldn't that cause other issues too? ​
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I have no clue honestly. I just know mine has done it. Sometimes, it’ll even start working the wipers and have the high beam lights come on. I think it’s because since 2006, Chrysler has been having the PCM monitor electrical circuits and it’s tripping out when it sees a lose ground or a barely touching tin heat shield
 
Ddaddy said:
Just because you can’t adapt to modern technology doesn’t mean there is anything wrong with it.

It’s the computer age and it isn’t that hard to understand how thing work...unless you just don’t want to.
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I am just kidding, I went to auto school so I can get around newer cars. I just prefer simple that can be done in a parking lot or wherever.

Simple, simple is the main reason I wanted that rambler with the 232 straight six
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
When you are my size and weight, cheater bars are your friends. I have a good sized section of galvanized fence post pipe tucked in the trunk right behind the rear seat. It slips right over the beaker bar and makes lugnuts a yawnable task. Saves me a work out
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Lugs came off fine. The 20 inch aluminum rim was seized to the center hub on the rotor. Had to lay a 4x8 against it and beat the hell out of it to get it free
 
zkx14 said:
Yep, aluminum to steel... Paint or grease the hub is what I have done.
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Yep. I tried paint last time. Spray paint for calibers but it looks to all be burnt off. I’ve got some turbo assembly grease that’s rated for 1600 degrees I’ll try when I get that tire replaced tomorrow. They didn’t have one in stock today
 
Ben Drinkin said:
What cam? I got a low compression 73 318 and I'm not so deep I can't change a cam. I just dont want to end up with a low end dog..
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Try something in the 260° - 275° duration with around .450 - .480 lift with a lobe center line between 110° - 114°....

The higher the lobe center line, the less overlap for that particular duration and the more cylinder pressure you can build to compensate for the "low" compression...

Then throw in a set of Rhoades variable duration lifters that bleed down at idle and give full lift and duration by 3500 RPM when you need it... It will add more low end and mid range torque and HP, increased idle vacuum, smoother idle, and will increase MPG...


Rhoades lifter main page:

Rhoads Lifters

Read the articles on how they work, especially the second one:
Articles




Another thing that I could suggest is to run a set of 66 - 67 273/318 heads, the 920 heads with the closed chambers... The smaller combustion chamber along with a .040" head gasket can increase your compression between .75 - 1.0 point of compression... I am doing this with a stock 72 318 block that I am putting in my 66 Valiant wagon...

Only the 64 - 65 273 heads had the unique intake bolt size and angle, the 66 and later heads are all the standard intake bolt size and angle so you have a variety if intakes that you can choose from...

Many people can't give an old 273 away, so you can find them cheap... Offer the guy $100 for the whole engine and take the heads and get them done...

I had my head guy go through my 67 920 heads and clean up the ports, then open up the bowls, gasket match the ports to the gasket, install 1.88" intake 360 valves and the 1.60" 360 exhaust valves and installed hardened seats on the exhaust valve so unleaded fuel won't damage the seats....
 
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Tooljunkie said:
Upper rad hose had a kink in it. I bet he wedged the socket in there to prevent kink from restructing flow.
Hose got hot and ploop! Into the rad it went.
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doh.gif
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
You just reminded me why i drive old simple cars that I can and surely have fixed on the side of the road. If i can fix a car on the side of the eustis then anyone, because I am the last person on the planet who should be fixin a car on the side road
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"Hey little girl, do you need any help changing your flat tire"???? <<<In a creepy voice>>>
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
When you are my size and weight, cheater bars are your friends. I have a good sized section of galvanized fence post pipe tucked in the trunk right behind the rear seat. It slips right over the beaker bar and makes lugnuts a yawnable task. Saves me a work out
Click to expand...

I love cheater bars.... :D
 
zkx14 said:
Yep, aluminum to steel... Paint or grease the hub is what I have done.
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dukeboy_318 said:
Yep. I tried paint last time. Spray paint for calibers but it looks to all be burnt off. I’ve got some turbo assembly grease that’s rated for 1600 degrees I’ll try when I get that tire replaced tomorrow. They didn’t have one in stock today
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Anti sieze grease....
 
zkx14 said:
Trying to figure out problem on the wifes 09 Journey. Horn starts blowing intermittently just sitting in the driveway. So the likely suspects...
Horn switch- This is part of the drivers airbag as far as I know. And I am pretty sure was replace on one of the recalls in last couple years.
Clock spring - Would expect it would go off while turning if this was the problem. As far as I know,
has never happened while driving. ​

TIPM - For some reason unbeknownst to the normal mind. Dodge decided not to include the Horn, Fuel pump, locks and wipers among the REPLACEABLE relays. Instead they are soldered onto a board under the fuse box. :BangHead: This is a known problem. The horn is actually not a common one that goes bad because it is used infrequently. (Fuel pump is most common)
Looking for a good way to troubleshoot cause my pockets aint deep enough to change all these parts...Would be really nice to get this on the first try.​
In the meantime -fuses are out and she has no horn.
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Need a better story.
Like doors locked,keys in house or what?
Body control module? Caravans did that too, broken wires in door jamb.
Module was in driver’s door.

Clocksprings rarely short out. They go open.

Bought a van that horn was stuck on, fuse was pulled.
Guess owner’s son had the van and punched the horn button. Dented the foil in the switch. I took it apart and somehow flattened it. Worked for years after.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
So I am still hen packing at this beaker because I have only been able to work on it in very small increments of time. Last week I got like one hour of cumulative time for the week on it.

At first I thought, 4 bbl, headers, and dual exhaust.

But then I thought, if i go headers..... then I have to swap it to manual steering.

I don't know, a lot of effort rounding up parts for a car that will probably never go that fast.

Then I was looking at YouTube videos and finally made up my mind.

2 bbl, stock 318 manifold with dual exhaust. Just like
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I have Hooker Headers on the '72 Swinger. They were a challenge to install since they left a little tidbit of information out of the instructions. Oil filter I use the short Ford filter. Wrapped the starter with asstossbestos for insulation. Don't recall any other interference issues. The extra flow on the exhaust makes a 2 bbl sound like it has a really lumpy cam :lol:. Walker I think they were Turbo mufflers past the diff and dump
 
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