Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Yup.
hangers should be the same location.
Just the one for the muffler and the one for the tailpipe.

Probably will be two inches difference between the engine and the axle. Right?
 
Mattax said:
24:1 or 20:1 at most unless you've been working out.
Yes wrenching counts (at least partially I think)
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I usually just use whatever I find.... all my A body cars have manual steering and i have never had a problem.

I am sure my daily driver doesn't have that fast ratio one they talk about
 
I need to get rid of this bulky *** thing.

I like manual brakes because you know what you're stepping on. If manual brakes don't stop you, then step on it harder..... so simple.

I don't like these boosters because when they mess up, they cost a fortune to fix or replace. It can stop from the bottom of the junk pile.

20191203_194211.jpg
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I need to get rid of this bulky *** thing.

I like manual brakes because you know what you're stepping on. If manual brakes don't stop you, then step on it harder..... so simple.

I don't like these boosters because when they mess up, they cost a fortune to fix or replace. It can stop from the bottom of the junk pile.

View attachment 1715432839
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Well, since I am over 50 i have an excuse when it.comes to my memory, ha ha. Anyway, if I remember right someone here on fabo had done a conversion from single circuit to dual circuit brakes and used the master cylinder from 1967 or 68. But, I think it said that a master cylinder from 1971 or 72 or so would have been a better choice, it would have required less push with the foot to stop the car.

Bill
 
RustyRatRod said:
I shot yall some videos today. Sorry about the sideways shot. They are pretty self explanatory.







Here's Matt workin on replacing quarters on David's Chevelle.

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I'll have to take some photos of the Ford Motorsports EFI harness I have for the 67 Fastback. 3 wire hookup as well 2 power and 1 ground. We are just going to have to make our own Mopar stuff.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I need to get rid of this bulky *** thing.

I like manual brakes because you know what you're stepping on. If manual brakes don't stop you, then step on it harder..... so simple.

I don't like these boosters because when they mess up, they cost a fortune to fix or replace. It can stop from the bottom of the junk pile.

View attachment 1715432839
Click to expand...
Mopar always said that a power boosted brake system just becomes a manual brake system if the booster ever fails. If the power booster ever gives out, just treat it like you have manual brakes with only a little extra pedal travel.
 
8.5 hour drive home got longer, 1.5 hours from the house radiator cap spring screwed up and car overheated. Not bad I caught it but :mad::soapbox:
 
Stephen Hotz said:
What do you think about this brake and fuel line flaring kit? Was looking at buying it.
FAIRMOUNT® Hydraulic Flaring Tool
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Those are nice. I used one very similar to make up the brake lines on that 51 up there^^^^^. They are just as slow as a manual tool, but much easier on the hands to use and the tool will last a long time, unlike the manual type. The manual flaring tools, you tear up just a little each time you use them. There's just no gettin around it. Unless of course, all you ever flare is aluminum line.
 
Mopar Tim said:
Looks nice. a little pricey, but it seems complete...
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I liked being able to do the fuel injection lines as well. I had a real good flaring tool at work from LG for refrigeration systems but liked the fact that this kit makes it easy to flare on the car.
 
Ok I'm going to try and get some sleep. I've been up since 4pm yesterday so need to hit the sack.
 
I took the time to get rid of the inside hood release which never worked.

I don't like that this was a high option car, more that I have to get rid of because my whole intent of this build is SIMPLE.

I don't mind optioned up cars, in fact I like it when I find high option c bodies but this scamp is going to capture the old time feel of a rambler or a really simple car like that

20191203_194450.jpg
 
Bills65Dart said:
Well, since I am over 50 i have an excuse when it.comes to my memory, ha ha. Anyway, if I remember right someone here on fabo had done a conversion from single circuit to dual circuit brakes and used the master cylinder from 1967 or 68. But, I think it said that a master cylinder from 1971 or 72 or so would have been a better choice, it would have required less push with the foot to stop the car.

Bill
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A few things to consider, not knowing the bore of your single master, i will go with the 1.25” one in my fargo. When switching to dual you will want to go to a smaller bore. Dual masters displace 2x roughly what single lines do.
The common one used in the conversions is 15/16” bore.
That matches pedal travel and feel.
Im considering trying the 3/4” one i have on a power brake setup from a pt cruiser. Its disc /drum but i think an add on residual valve on the disc part (front) will solve excessive pedal travel.
Disc brakes are 3-5 psi where drums are 10. Someone please correct me if im wrong.
Higher psi holds against return springs to reduce full return of shoes thus reducing pedal travel.
Disc brake calipers require less pressure to keep pads from moving away from rotor.
 
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I am pretty much done for the night, I forgot what a work out you get wrenching. I am sore everywhere because this is the best wrenching session I have had in a year and half.

Shop was pretty much closed all of 2018 and most of this year because I was either in the office or busy with something else.

So good to be in the shop.

I am getting the shifter ready, I still need to cut a hole in the floor.

20191203_203004.jpg
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
I took the time to get rid of the inside hood release which never worked.

I don't like that this was a high option car, more that I have to get rid of because my whole intent of this build is SIMPLE.

I don't mind optioned up cars, in fact I like it when I find high option c bodies but this scamp is going to capture the old time feel of a rambler or a really simple car like that

View attachment 1715432861
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I would have kept that, rarely troublesome and a small level of security. Keep the honest people out.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I would have kept that, rarely troublesome and a small level of security. Keep the honest people out.
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This one has the knob busted off and the cable is brittle and chunks of plastic falling off.

I usually weld a tab on underside of the hood for a chain and wrap it around the k frame with a lock.

Not really fort Knox but it might slow someone down long enough to get caught.

I thought of the same thing on my 340 cars when an air cleaner is worth $600. +++
 
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