Stop in for a cup of coffee

-
Second job, caravan grindibg noise on right front. Think all the evidence is gone. Spring thaw fixed it.
 
Well, allrighty then...

Screenshot_20230417_111912_Facebook.jpg
 
Chris get a bulkhead rebuild kit. If you need any help on wiring or anything call me.....
 
Getting ready to delve into the 273. Keeping it fairly stock, maybe a couple of bolt-ons. What is the "minimum" effort you would go with and check? Target is to (conjuring up RRR) "get it runnin' and drivin' "
 
Getting ready to delve into the 273. Keeping it fairly stock, maybe a couple of bolt-ons. What is the "minimum" effort you would go with and check? Target is to (conjuring up RRR) "get it runnin' and drivin' "
What does it need? How long since it has been run? I got mine running for a couple years with a good tune up and new fuel system but the car had set for years. It was weak though.
 
What does it need? How long since it has been run? I got mine running for a couple years with a good tune up and new fuel system but the car had set for years. It was weak though.

It sounds relatively similar. (This will sound like BS...but...) "A little old lady in WV had it". Grandma's car, she stopped driving and it sat a while ( 4dr Belvedere) Grandson is dropping a big block into it so pulled the motor.

I'm thinking a peek into the top end by puling valve covers and intake... then drop the pan and see if there are any surprises or debris built up.
 
It sounds relatively similar. (This will sound like BS...but...) "A little old lady in WV had it". Grandma's car, she stopped driving and it sat a while ( 4dr Belvedere) Grandson is dropping a big block into it so pulled the motor.

I'm thinking a peek into the top end by puling valve covers and intake... then drop the pan and see if there are any surprises or debris built up.
As long as the rings aren't stuck and the valves burnt, and the bearings aren't down to copper, you should be in good shape. It isn't new and fresh but Mopar engines run forever.
 
As long as the rings aren't stuck and the valves burnt, and the bearings aren't down to copper, you should be in good shape. It isn't new and fresh but Mopar engines run forever.

Going to try and get as much of any type liquid that is in there (water/oil) OUT... my brother mentioned getting some WD-40 into the plug holes (rotate the motor so the pistons are near vertical) to make sure things move freely after sitting. Leave it a couple of days on each side.
 
Going to try and get as much of any type liquid that is in there (water/oil) OUT... my brother mentioned getting some WD-40 into the plug holes (rotate the motor so the pistons are near vertical) to make sure things move freely after sitting. Leave it a couple of days on each side.
ATF works well too. Just a few squirts in each cylinder and spin the engine over. It's tough to know how far to go. Mine started leaking out the frost plugs and they are a turd to replace in the car so I pulled it and went through it.
 
This was waiting for me. Not the same. Pass side seam is folded up on original. Will interfere with exhaust. Some hammer work is in its future

20230417_103448.jpg
 
Thanks Tim

Yeah, as is typical, this harness has been cut up and spliced a bunch over the years
Well I would be remiss if I did not mention the racers point of view! Hah! Take that miserable bulk head connector and toss it! Wire it up all modern like. That bulkhead connector would look great sitting on the shelf over in the corner of the shop with the push button! Just keep ya grounded! Hah!
 
Got the fuel sender replaced and digital dash is back to normal. The old sender float had a small crack and had filled with gas. I could have just put a new float on it and returned the new one, but my luck as soon as I sent it back the old one would break again. So, I played it smart hopefully and installed the new one. Not a big thing to do but it was me doing it...LOL!!
 
-
Back
Top