Stop in for a cup of coffee

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That momentary panic.... will I be able to get all this back where it belongs???

:rofl:

So much extra wire from things having been added and removed.

The "star" splice was my favorite...

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Fascinating. Just looked at the shop manual for my 'new' car - the Heep. 5000 and 7500 miles between oil changes.
Not sure I ever had a vehicle that went more 3000 miles without a change. But this rebuilt engine isn't leaking or burning oil, so guess I'll let go for a while.
 
Mattax said:
Fascinating. Just looked at the shop manual for my 'new' car - the Heep. 5000 and 7500 miles between oil changes.
Not sure I ever had a vehicle that went more 3000 miles without a change. But this rebuilt engine isn't leaking or burning oil, so guess I'll let go for a while.
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Mazda says 10K. I still try to get close to 5K even with synthetic
 
zkx14 said:
Mazda says 10K. I still try to get close to 5K even with synthetic
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I was a bit surprised considering this is from the mid 1980s and the engines had been in AMC's lineup since the 70s. Not like the more recent stuff with tighter tolerancing. Maybe just the oils were that much better.
 
k guys.. couple of things... was cleaning my torsion bars and they are .900 and have pitted rust... this car will do well over 30mph and not worth taking a risk... Are 1.04s too stiff? don't wanna ride like a truck... also any one brand better than the other? i have a hard time trusting new parts :(

Also... was fitting my brakes/lcas and all that... and the caliper bracket and lower ball joint came with this black coating that almost feels powdery but doens't wire wheel off too easy.. any chance this stuff will stop rust or should i hose them down with some black paint?

also i assume it will be much harder to get the torsion bars in if i put in the LCAs first?

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Fred Scigliano said:
Engine bay looks good Chris I can't see much problems there.
I don't like the heater fan painted body color but that's just me.
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That makes two of us Fred. That's getting corrected.

It's good from 20 feet maybe... need to wire wheel those rust areas and hit them with my Eastwood rust encapsulator, then prime over that

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Icetech said:
k guys.. couple of things... was cleaning my torsion bars and they are .900 and have pitted rust... this car will do well over 30mph and not worth taking a risk... Are 1.04s too stiff? don't wanna ride like a truck... also any one brand better than the other? i have a hard time trusting new parts :(

Also... was fitting my brakes/lcas and all that... and the caliper bracket and lower ball joint came with this black coating that almost feels powdery but doens't wire wheel off too easy.. any chance this stuff will stop rust or should i hose them down with some black paint?

also i assume it will be much harder to get the torsion bars in if i put in the LCAs first?

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Pretty sure the "black" is a dry lube of some sort to keep them from rusting in transit

The torsion bars fit into the LCAs... so they need to be in place.... unless I did it wrong before, which is entirely possible.
 
WV64Signet said:
That makes two of us Fred. That's getting corrected.

It's good from 20 feet maybe...

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I think if you plan on making it look real good I would strip all the paint off and start over and might take time but in the long run would be better and believe after looking at what you have it would be lots better and less of a pain if you take it all down to bare metal.
What's under the new paint you put on is what's going to cause problems not the paint you put on.
 
71GSSDemon said:
Good morning guys. Got my boys steering stabilizer and his rear axle bearings installed yesterday. I don't have a press, so hammering the bearings on and then the retainer rings...damn that was a work out. I need to get back into shape! Fingers crossed it works and no leaks.

@Tooljunkie thanks Frank for the tip in the brakes swelling. They were gummed up and stuck very tight. Had to back them way off to remove the drums. Couple soaks with brake cleaner and heat/dry out with a MAP torch. Readjusted.
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For press fit bearings, i used to put axle in freezer. Set bearing and retainer on a 100 watt incandescent bulb. Axle needs to chiil for an hour. Stand axle up on a block to clear studs, drop bearing on and retainer. Long pipe and a hammer to seat them.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
I think if you plan on making it look real good I would strip all the paint off and start over and might take time but in the long run would be better and believe after looking at what you have it would be lots better and less of a pain if you take it all down to bare metal.
What's under the new paint you put on is what's going to cause problems not the paint you put on.
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Mine was factory paint and wasn't going to trust the integrity of it so I stripped it all off. cleaned up some of the ruff parts with some bondo then epoxy then primer.
 
Mattax said:
Thanks for the update.
Been told (and have observed) one of the biggest problems with PT is the patients. Many don't really try or want to do it, and its even worse in outpatient, and when they are supposed to do it on their own. Your daughter will do well.


Forwhatever reason that song isnt a Springtime song for me. That's a favorite all the time.


Its the salt in the prepared foods that gets most people.
Make your own food and that solves most of the problem. You can still cook with salt as needed.

You ever look at the ingredients of salad dressing? or premade pasta sauce? You have to really hunt to find ones with no sweetners and garbage. So even items that should be good foods have bad stuff in them. How many people cook from scratch these days? I think less than even when I was growing up.



Rubber Raw or use ruglyde or soap to help.
Hard plastic - grease
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Then there ar people like me, the stretches to help my pirformus syndrome are impossible due to moderately severe arthritis in my hips and low back.. so do what i can,mostly just suffer.
 
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