Stop in for a cup of coffee

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ZMan67S said:
Well give me your two cents worth. A few months ago took the exhaust manifolds off, they needed cleaned up and re-painted. Looked on FABO and choose Bill Hirsch manifold paint. I bead blasted them and sprayed them off with a air hose. Took them and put two coats paint on in the recommended time listed on the can. Let them sit 24 hours, and baked them in the oven at 350 or whatever the can said for 30 minutes. Looked great, put them on the car and drove it a few times. Last week noticed the driver side is flaking. It is in the spot I'd of carried them in my hand....and no I wasn't wearing gloves, my bad.
I called the paint company and asked a few questions. Besides wearing gloves, they said before painting I should of wiped them down with a lacquer thinner type product. Been nice if they put that on the can. Anyway, thinking all I need to do is light wire brush, wipe it down, and repaint it. I really don't want to pull them off again. Oh yea and wear gloves!! Sound good??
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They need to be properly heat cured before they go up to full operating temperature. You can use an IR gun to measure the temp and shut the engine off when it gets to 350*. Let it cool down and repeat again once ot twice before running up to full operating temp. If you do t do this, they make flake again.
 
Ddaddy said:
They need to be properly heat cured before they go up to full operating temperature. You can use an IR gun to measure the temp and shut the engine off when it gets to 350*. Let it cool down and repeat again once ot twice before running up to full operating temp. If you do t do this, they make flake again.
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Thanks, didn't have an IR so that's why I baked them. Might have to borrow one.
 
My english wheel was not great new out of the box. A lot of deflection. So i welded a round of 2x2 square tube and embiggened the corner braces. Now its rigid.
I cut a piece of 4” plate 12”wide,slot down the length to match the bead roller. Spacers and bolts to take the flex out of it. It wont be a problem with heavier stuff now.

Complex bends/curves?
Cover area in duct tape-2 layers.
Peel tape and cut slits so it will lay flat on your sheet metal.gives you a great template. As you work it and weld slits back together it gets your panel very close. Done it a few times, works well.bigger flat areas i use heavy paper and duct tape the same way. Drawing lines to represent bends.
 
ZMan67S said:
Got one.:thumbsup:
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Yup. One of the best tools in my box
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Tooljunkie said:
My english wheel was not great new out of the box. A lot of deflection. So i welded a round of 2x2 square tube and embiggened the corner braces. Now its rigid.
I cut a piece of 4” plate 12”wide,slot down the length to match the bead roller. Spacers and bolts to take the flex out of it. It wont be a problem with heavier stuff now.

Complex bends/curves?
Cover area in duct tape-2 layers.
Peel tape and cut slits so it will lay flat on your sheet metal.gives you a great template. As you work it and weld slits back together it gets your panel very close. Done it a few times, works well.bigger flat areas i use heavy paper and duct tape the same way. Drawing lines to represent bends.
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That's some pretty high-tech cobblin' lol
 
Question... why would valve springs have what appears to be green paint on them?
 
Ddaddy said:
Is it just like a stripe of paint or fully painted?
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It's a stripe down one side. It's the color of green antifreeze which lead to me to think it was antifreeze at first glancd but its for sure paint. And one every spring in the same area.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
It's a stripe down one side. It's the color of green antifreeze which lead to me to think it was antifreeze at first glancd but its for sure paint. And one every spring in the same area.
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OEM valve springs often have paint markings or codes on them. I have seen white, red, blue etc
 
dukeboy_318 said:
It's a stripe down one side. It's the color of green antifreeze which lead to me to think it was antifreeze at first glancd but its for sure paint. And one every spring in the same area.
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They are aftermarket valve springs and the color indicates the spring rate.
 
As far as I know, original Mopar valve springs don’t have paint on them unless they were HP. And then they were all red.
 
Like Mitch, I've seen all different colors. Thinking it's more of an assembly line marking/packaging thing to keep matched sets together.
 
Ddaddy said:
As far as I know, original Mopar valve springs don’t have paint on them unless they were HP. And then they were all red.
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Yes... All of my original 383HP engines had red spring markings...
 
George, I think the pressure by pass valve stuck on the 383 , the other day... I thought I blew out the rear main. But discovered rather quickly, where it came from. Oil filter gasket.... No Worries... all fixed....:BangHead::BangHead:
 
MOPARMITCH said:
George, I think the pressure by pass valve stuck on the 383 , the other day... I thought I blew out the rear main. But discovered rather quickly, where it came from. Oil filter gasket.... No Worries... all fixed....:BangHead::BangHead:
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Whew!
 
MOPARMITCH said:
George, I think the pressure by pass valve stuck on the 383 , the other day... I thought I blew out the rear main. But discovered rather quickly, where it came from. Oil filter gasket.... No Worries... all fixed....:BangHead::BangHead:
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whew! man you sure have had a long road on that one
 
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