Stop in for a cup of coffee

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I think its much more about the better heat dissapation under repeated use, and less distoration when really hot. Also some people panic when drum brakes start to fade - because all the mechanical adventage of the self-engerizing fades away with it. Not to say their aren't crappy OEM front disc systems. Many a first gen SHO owner found that out. And there are some Subies that even in autocross seem a bit undersize in the front brakes.
True, but the heat dissipation is directly related to the pad off-gassing. Cooler pads don’t go to the vapor stage and therefore retain positive contact with the braking surface. Also, moisture is dissipated faster with disc brakes so wet braking is less variable.
 
Of course, a disc brake set up that is undersized for the application won’t perform well...but a drum brake of similar undersize would be far worse.
 
True, but the heat dissipation is directly related to the pad off-gassing. Cooler pads don’t go to the vapor stage and therefore retain positive contact with the braking surface. Also, moisture is dissipated faster with disc brakes so wet braking is less variable.
And a better pad/shoe composition, off gasses at higher temps. Fades later, at hotter temps. It is the gas trapped between the pad/shoe that prevents the pad/shoe from contacting the disc/drum, causing brake fade...
 
Chris - You got to go over that brake system and put it back the way its supposed to. Unless you find something really wrong that can't be fixed, what you have there now is rusty old brake system. It doesn't matter what type it is when its in that shape. One time I tried to a 1960 F350 to get some tires and the clutch master hung up about 10 blocks into the hood. Busted the pushrod too 'cause it was already about worn through. That's what happens when they sit around - and that one wasn't even in a mudfield! I was in a rush, wanted to use it and took a chance. dumbass. (that's a type fish).
 
Chris - You got to go over that brake system and put it back the way its supposed to. Unless you find something really wrong that can't be fixed, what you have there now is rusty old brake system. It doesn't matter what type it is when its in that shape. One time I tried to a 1960 F350 to get some tires and the clutch master hung up about 10 blocks into the hood. Busted the pushrod too 'cause it was already about worn through. That's what happens when they sit around - and that one wasn't even in a mudfield! I was in a rush, wanted to use it and took a chance. dumbass. (that's a type fish).
That's the plan. Full brake and suspension rebuild to make it safe to drive. Right now, I was just trying to move it from one she'd to the next so I can get the dart out and moved to the welding side of the shed to start work on the floor pans. Towing the polara with the tractor, but there's a slight grade to the drive. Tapped the brakes to avoid closing up onto the tractor and the right front locked and didn't release is all. It did it when we were trying to load it and I thought I had it work able but guess not
 
And a better pad/shoe composition, off gasses at higher temps. Fades later, at hotter temps. It is the gas trapped between the pad/shoe that prevents the pad/shoe from contacting the disc/drum, causing brake fade...
Well it all depends on lining composition doesn't it. Some of the pad manufactureres now claim that outgassing isn't the problem it used to be. I'm in no position to call BS or not. They all have something to sell though, and this arguement gets heated when it then turns to the question of whether slotted or drilled rotors are better. What I do know is the old Fred Phun book recommended drilling for racing, when running out of other options. Having those discontinuities required constant checking for indications of cracking. They even would drill the drums if needed.
 
Organic/asbestos was the worst. Ceramic is not bad, I like the Green Stuff,
green-stuff-nobox.jpg
 
Well it all depends on lining composition doesn't it. Some of the pad manufactureres now claim that outgassing isn't the problem it used to be. I'm in no position to call BS or not. They all have something to sell though, and this arguement gets heated when it then turns to the question of whether slotted or drilled rotors are better. What I do know is the old Fred Phun book recommended drilling for racing, when running out of other options. Having those discontinuities required constant checking for indications of cracking. They even would drill the drums if needed.
Slotted works better then drilling IMO.
 
Slotted works better then drilling IMO.
Generally, that’s true. Brembo brakes are all slotted and you couldn’t fade the brakes on my SRT no matter how hard you pushed it. Drilled rotors are prone to cracks around the drill points. The only way around that is to cast them with the holes already in place. A few do it that way but it is debatable if drilled can out perform slotted.
 
Fortunately It looks like I may not have to worry much about it, at least not in the near future. My one outing on track still didn't get the brakes anywhere close to temperatures of concern. Everything had temperature marking paint that would start turning colors somewhere above 500 F, and none of the pads or drum shoes showed any excessive wear. Porterfields R4S lining all around. Maybe when/if I get to puch it a little harder I'll need some high temperature material, but for now its fine. Maybe one day I drive it out to Willow Springs... that's a fast track. :)
 
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If you want to see some good drum brake action, watch the Corvair captured in this guy's video. (hang in after the first pass, it doesn't stick :) )
Drums all around (rules restricted to what was available from the factory)


Just shows for those who want and those who need, they can be made to work pretty well, at least for a while. Kindof like anything in a long race, got make it last.
Pretty cool, although I'm sure he'd prefer decent front disks given a choice.
 
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Everybody sleep in today?
First!
-27 this fine morning.
Im ok with that today,makes the piston pins go in that much easier.
Watched the road race, very cool. Now my coffee is cold.
 
Moring all....Happy Monday to all you working ones. 60's here today, and then winter for a couple days.
 
Tooljunkie what you gonna do with that 318 block?? The rust I mean do you tear it apart spray it down or boil it??
 
Once im done with taking the rods, the block is of no use to me.
I will clean it and hone it and see what it looks like.Im waiting for a few more to appear, can never have enough spare parts.
This donor engine,although greasy had very low mileage as it was in a camper van.
 
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