Stop in for a cup of coffee

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halifaxhops said:
Refresh my mind what is the car again?
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It's a 1974 Duster /6. BB is probably out of the question at the moment. I was talking to a guy about a built 360. We had an extra 300lbs put on the front this weekend and nothing snapped, so I guess that's a good indication.

But I definitely will need to fix this rear if anything.
 
Here's a rear rail for a 70 B Body courtesy of AMD.
 

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Here is the rail for your car.
 

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Resto rail sections are made with the spring mount boxes, but when I looked they were $300 per side. Can remember who made them. Auto Rust tech, or us car tool
 
I would try to get a used one and maybe it will come with the floor area if you ask when they cut it out. I would start to cut/grind the bad areas out before ordering anything to see what you really need.
 
There is a junk yard up in pine grove that is really reasonable and has some a bodies that are stripped. Klingers is the name of it.
 
I was planning to wire wheel the frame rail and go down from back to front, then decide there. How much of the rail can I cut out before the body, y'know, drops down? lol
 
Expire said:
In all honesty, if I were to pay something like $270 for just half the rail, I'd rather put another $100 in, life the car from frame and slide a brand new on in. lol
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Little more to it then sliding it in lol, and you need the spring mount.
 
Seriously cut the rust out so there are no surprised, been to that circus a few times. This way you just get what you need. P.S. Keep air in that rear air shock! How is the rest of the car?
 
Expire said:
The majority of the trunk floor is alright, just the right side that connects to the passenger quarter is pretty rough.
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That is called a trunk extension, they are fairly cheap new. I know you have a very limited budget.
 
Expire said:
I was planning to wire wheel the frame rail and go down from back to front, then decide there. How much of the rail can I cut out before the body, y'know, drops down? lol
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It shouldnt move, put the car on 4 jackstands, block and level it lengthwise and side to side, then you can measure the height of the rail to the floor before you cut measure width from other side/rail, put the new one in at the same height and width.
 
halifaxhops said:
Seriously cut the rust out so there are no surprised, been to that circus a few times. This way you just get what you need. P.S. Keep air in that rear air shock! How is the rest of the car?
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Couple holes in the interior, no bigger than a fist.

the engine bay looks alright, and like I said, we had 300+lbs put on the front this weekend and nothing cracked or broke. lol
 
Like these guys are saying clean it up, it usually is worse. My rails didnt look as bad and I ended up needing floor and both side extensions. Clean it up look for perforations /pinholes.
 
I wish you were closer. What I would do is cut it out, fix the floor then go for the rail repair. Got a welder?
 
GeorgeH said:
Like these guys are saying clean it up, it usually is worse. My rails didnt look as bad and I ended up needing floor and both side extensions. Clean it up look for perforations /pinholes.
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Seems like my turkeyday holiday will be wirewheeling the **** out of the underside of this car. lol

halifaxhops said:
I wish you were closer. What I would do is cut it out, fix the floor then go for the rail repair. Got a welder?
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Nope, but I know a few people who do. I think my local home depot also rents them out?
 
Expire said:
Couple holes in the interior, no bigger than a fist.

the engine bay looks alright, and like I said, we had 300+lbs put on the front this weekend and nothing cracked or broke. lol
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Sorry that is funny! Most of us have been there.
 
Expire said:
Seems like my turkeyday holiday will be wirewheeling the **** out of the underside of this car. lol
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Cut the rusted stuff out first if you can, it will save a lot of time. Got a garage to work in?
 
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