when i hook the battery up, even with all the switches turned off, the blower motor runs, the wipers move and the horn sounds.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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that's kind of how it feels to be honest.
You're on the right path. Even though it may be bundled in with other wires, making a haness, the turn signals are their own circuit - depending on the year it will include the parking and brake light circuits. Just copy what they did originally. aside I never understand why people suggest modifying and 'improving' to folks who are already delving into new area they are unfamiliar with. Make it like the factory, it will work good as new. Mods can follow if wanted, but at least there is a good working system as a baseline.
Thats kind of my thought process with returning the harness and going a different direction. While I could probably make a turn signal harness that'd work, i'd have more than the cost difference between this brand of universal harness and the slightly more expensive mopar specific one. Wish I'd found the mopar specific one before I'd ordered this one. Usually the mopar specific ones are 450-600 bucks, this universal had 2800 5 star reviews and was only 175. The new brand mopar specific one is just 235.
Does the car have an ammeter?when i hook the battery up, even with all the switches turned off, the blower motor runs, the wipers move and the horn sounds.
it does
yikes
Maybe find a better used harness from something close to start with. Even if it's not right it will be closer than a Universal. Lay them both out and compare, change as needed...
OK. I was thinking it would be a help in narrowing the short, but actually not much in this case.
If it didn't show discharge when the fan, wipers and horn circus began, then the short is probaly at or near the firewall connector. But not sure that helps you much.
Mopar specific, or year and model specific?
How many harnesses are you replacing?
Engine bay - which may be 1,2 or three harnesses
Under Dash -
Body (rear lights, parking lights)
Yep, they all need to connect. So if you go with aftermarket and they don't use factory type connectors, you gotta keep going with it. Could end up way down the rabbit hole. $$$
Good idea. thanks
I don't think it works as none of the gauges moved when the key was turned
answers in red
another reason to return this one lolYep, they all need to connect. So if you go with aftermarket and they don't use factory type connectors, you gotta keep going with it. Could end up way down the rabbit hole. $$$
With the engine off, only two possible reasons the ammeter doesn't move when blower motor and wipers are going.
1. Internally the measuring part is broken but the internal shunt is still good.
2. Electricity is bypassing it - shorting to other wires in this case.
Why all?
There's some legit reasons to do that, but if its just under the dash that's messed up, that may be all you need to fully replace.
This is the brand harness I SHOULD have gotten i think. My buddy has used this brand twice apparently, he told me about it last night.
Rebel Wire .:. Wire Kits for Real Rods
Rebel Wire .:. Wire Kits for Real Rods
Yep, they all need to connect. So if you go with aftermarket and they don't use factory type connectors, you gotta keep going with it. Could end up way down the rabbit hole. $$$
well, the wires going to the tailights are chewed up, guessing from mice. and the engine harness has been hacked up to put in that electronic ignition conversion plus some of the wires such as to the voltage regulator and the alternator, the insulation has dry rotted and is cracked. it actually flakes off in some areas. I'd just feel more comfortable replacing all that. Especially given the melted harness under the dash. Not worth the entire car to save a few hours and dollars.
Engine compartment dry rotted insulation - I get it - that's legit.
But if this is the kits you're looking at, you've got a major project. Using a kit like that is not quite reinventing the wheel, but its close.
It's still generic. Chevy, Ford, Chrysler are not the same. Ford used a 4 wire voltage regulator. Their starter solenoid was sperate from the starter. Few Chevy had full instrumentation like was standard on most Chryslers. etc etc.
Your going to have to figure all that out,
you have figure out the hook up connectors,
you have to rework/modify/change the firewall pass through connections.
presumably you must remove the old and mount the new fusebox.
You'll still need a good crimper, and wire stripper.
I just don't see what this gets a person who isn't very familiar with circuits.
Back to my first suggestion. Copy the factory. Between the Factory Service diagram and the orignal harness, you'll have the wire size, color, length, routing, along with the terminals and connectors.
The only thing that will be a minor PIA is factory colors in relatively small quantities.
just my honest opinion.
fair enough. So just to make sure I'm understanding your suggestion, are you saying to lay out the factory harness, buy the needed connectors,ends, plugs etc and get the same color wires and custom make a harness using the original as a pattern?
About an hour
Filter was plugged, lots of clutch in the pan.
Front band was cooked and rear one was really loose.
Time to go order a band.
Front band was cooked and rear one was really loose.
Time to go order a band.
Yep, that's pretty much it.
Pretty much. Assuming replicas are not available or out of price range.
Label connectors and remove factory harnesses (plural) one by one.
Layout factory harness & remove tape,
Make a list of wire color, size and lengths needed to buy.
Buy new terminals,
Only Buy new connectors if needed.
One harness at a time, replace every bad wire and/or terminal connection.
The only connection that can't be done at home like the factory is the welded splice in the main under dash harness.
Here's where Kieth's suggestion of having a good used harness might be easier for a guy in your position. There's other ways to do it - but however its done, that's a very important junction.
That ATF looks a bit off!
Easy His buddy could wire the Polara for him while Chris works on the Dart!Yep, that's pretty much it.
PS Agree to pay based on performance, then he's free to buy whatever kit he wants. As long as it works when done, you don't care.
Maybe ask him for service diagram when he's done though. LOL Or add a service contract into the deal, just like the box stores...
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