Stop in for a cup of coffee

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almost the same process they use for chrome, but way easier no dangerous fumes and chemicals to deal with.
 
Well I got it looking nice. It hadn't been used like much so cleaned up. I found out when I bought this one that ashtray/receiver were a one year only (typical 1967) made for the Barracuda and Dart BB convertible and hard to find. I'll take the old one and sell it at Carlisle.
 
Hey Ray, not a whole lot. Got the doors on the Duster, took for a spin around the block. Got a bunch of looks from neighbors. Could have been the car with no lights or glass or the 12” glass packs. Either way it went through the gears nicely and had a big ole grin glued to my face for an hour afterwards. This car is going to be fun!
:lol:
 
Working with a guy that is using one does the distributor get totally locked out? He is running just mechanical now and said it suck and wants me to build him one and looking around a bit I found instructions and it said to totally lock it out but I don't know which one he is running. Hope that made sense.
 
Ray got the part (convertible switch) from Canada yesterday. It took 10 days.
It was clean. The 12V on mine was cleaner so switched them out.
Sending the old one to my Barracuda buddy who says all the bad one needs is a spring.
Have had it, I said. I'll sell that one to...or maybe I might keep it for a backup.
 
If he’s having the FiTech control timing then the distributor needs to be completely locked out. It also needs a particular distributor. As I understand it the MSD pro billet or a clone. @Johnny Mac can confirm/clarify that. I bought the system from him when he was with Pace.
 
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That's what I thought. He is running a petronix right now in it with the mechanical still working. He wants me to buid him one with a different curve and I looked it up and saw that. Have to call him he might just need to lock it up.
 
It is he has been running it. His issue is it is bogging down mid range. Prob screwing with the control box since it is advancing.
 
A question... The PO had a small two gauge aftermarket chrome colored oil/temp hooked up under the dashboard.
Since the dash gauges were completely rebuilt a few years ago we are wiring the oil/and temp back to the dash gauges.
Is there a way to test the sending units to make sure they are working before we wire them up??
I'm sure they guy helping me has an answer, but was just curious to what you thought.
 
There is a lot of good info on FB. A couple of pages that are dedicated to FiTech tuning. From what I’ve read the petronixs and factory Mopar distributors are hit and miss and often problematic w/timing control.
 
There is a lot of good info on FB. A couple of pages that are dedicated to FiTech tuning. From what I’ve read the petronixs and factory Mopar distributors are hit and miss and often problematic w/timing control.
I don't know anything about them at all. Have to call @Johnny Mac I guess. Have another question for him also.
 
Well I'll get him over before we put it all back in. If I need new sending units want to get them coming now.
 
Temp sensor pull out use a om hm meter check it cold should be around 70 ohms Then put it in a boiling hot cup of water should go up to around 10 is max. Oil take the unit and use your air compresser and some fittings to attach it. No pressure 70 with pressure it will change. Best I can tell you. Might have the ohms backwards let me check.
 
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It is he has been running it. His issue is it is bogging down mid range. Prob screwing with the control box since it is advancing.
Definitely not good, once the base timing is set and synced with the unit, the unit has no clue as to what the distributor does. FiTech controls when the coil fires. That’s why the dist needs to be locked and set right from the start. Installation issues are the #1 problem with these units. Most folks blame FiTech when it’s actually installation.
 
Temp sensor pull out use a om hm meter check it cold should be around 23 ohms Then put it in a boiling hot cup of water should go up to around 70 is max. Oil take the unit and use your air compresser and some fittings to attach it. No pressure 23 with pressure it will change. Best I can tell you. Might have the ohms backwards let me check.
Thanks
 
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