Stop in for a cup of coffee

[Icetech]

I’m curious as to why people feel it’s cheaper? Having multiple ongoing projects that I bounce between, LA stuff often costs the same as BB stuff, sometimes more, sometimes less. It’s pretty much a wash.

I mean brake, t-bar and rear end upgrades all still need to be done in most slant 6 to V8 projects anyways.

Well.. for me it's going to cost me 5-6k (without rebuilding my bottom end which has unknown miles and might be junk) to hopefully make 400hp... there was a running 440 still in a car with trans near me for $650 last week and normally 1100ish.. big block is cheaper by far for money per power value...

 

[halifaxhops]

OK just to start, Conversion mounts, heater motor relocate, power booster, Headers are a ***** to find, Then once it is in you cant get to #4 and 6 plugs easily. For the bang for the buck I would get a crate motor for 6K. Have at least that into mine.

 

[halifaxhops]

You'd be better off with 452s unless it is for a restoration. Flow is the same, hardened seats in from the factory and less crack prone.

Did not realize that thanks.

 

[Icetech]

ok.... now i want a hemi..i hadn't considered how easy plug changes are..

 

[71GSSDemon]

Yeah, that's why I want a hemi too, for the spark plug maintenance!

 

[halifaxhops]

 

[71GSSDemon]

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That's an easy fix. Ditch the heater, ditch the power brakes, ditch the power steering, weld in J bars, cut the inner fenders out, use an engine plate and fenderwell headers! Excuse the old pic. That was when I first got it running after 34 year slumber. Much nicer now..... but everything is super easy to get at.

 

[71GSSDemon]

Yeah, that's why I want a hemi too, for the spark plug maintenance!

View attachment 1716105339

For the record, Herb installed an E body K member which gave the hemi A body more room

 

[RustyRatRod]

Finally getting rain. Not much but needed badly.

Chit. I'll send you some of ours. We've had it several days now. Still rainin.

 

[RustyRatRod]

That's an easy fix. Ditch the heater, ditch the power brakes, ditch the power steering, weld in J bars, cut the inner fenders out, use an engine plate and fenderwell headers! Excuse the old pic but everything is super easy to get at.

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I'm diggin hell outta them center squirters!

 

[halifaxhops]

We are right on the top edge of that front. Dam pond is about 2 feet usually 12!

 

[Icetech]

Am i the only one that cringes when i see inner fenders cut out

 

[halifaxhops]

Am i the only one that cringes when i see inner fenders cut out

Just part of doing it. I think I got the last set of Schumacher headers. And man they are tight to the inner fenders but somehow clear the PS.

 

[halifaxhops]

You running a torque strap Eric? I have to or the engine valve cover will hit the booster.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Am i the only one that cringes when i see inner fenders cut out

For me it depends on the rest of the build. I really like me some @71GSSDemon's car because it's so period correct, you'd think it was still the 1970s. For others that don't do all the rest, yeah it's kinda outta place. But he did it right.

 

[71GSSDemon]

I'm diggin hell outta them center squirters!

Once they get sorted out, they are pretty awesome! All 8 barrels at once, runs great and still got 11mpg on the drive to MITP. More tuning to do, but I was very happy.

 

[No name needed]

We are right on the top edge of that front. Dam pond is about 2 feet usually 12!

24 is better then 12. Then again 12 is better the 3.
Or so I've been told.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Once they get sorted out, they are pretty awesome! All 8 barrels at once, runs great and still got 11mpg on the drive to MITP. More tuning to do, but I was very happy.

I've run ONE on a Chevy 350 years ago. It was a bad ****.

 

[71GSSDemon]

Am i the only one that cringes when i see inner fenders cut out

The J bars tie the firewall to the front frame rail and the upper shock mount. Team that with the front engine plate that now connects the engine to the frame and the J bar it is likely as good or better than sheet metal inner fenders.

 

[RustyRatRod]

24 is better then 12. Then again 12 is better the 3.
Or so I've been told.

Reminds me of what Kitty told me when we first met. "Gimmie 12" and make it hurt" So I did her four times and punched her in the nose.

 

[71GSSDemon]

You running a torque strap Eric? I have to or the engine valve cover will hit the booster.

No torque strap. Just the front engine plate and a factory rubber trans mount. I thought about adding a mid plate for ease of removing the engine or trans without blocking things up. I have seen many install fore/aft limiters but without racing, I don't think it is an issue.

 

[halifaxhops]

Engine plate will lock it in I am sure. Mine has some serious torque so I have to watch it. Have to get it on a dyno whenever it is running again. Need a head, Ring gear and re polish the rear main where the seal rides has a annoying drip. Engine has to come out just to get the header off the pass side to do heads. Good time to paint the bay if I ever get time.

 

[Icetech]

The J bars tie the firewall to the front frame rail and the upper shock mount. Team that with the front engine plate that now connects the engine to the frame and the J bar it is likely as good or better than sheet metal inner fenders.

Wasn't saying it's weaker/stronger, just makes me sad inside

 

[Sublime one]

Good morning all. Eric, back pain sucks, rest up.

Making a dent. Going to do another metal recycling run Friday or Saturday.

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Wow what a difference, realizing of course we only see 1/2 of what you actually get done. A lot of multiple handling on deals like that just to get enough room to do next task.

 

[RustyRatRod]

You running a torque strap Eric? I have to or the engine valve cover will hit the booster.

Yeah, don't you see that big aluminum PLATE behind the water pump? Best torque strap ever. lol