Stroker advice

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CLAY72dart said:
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Not a roller is it bad for it not to be?
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I guess you've been living under a rock. Comp has had so many failures of lifters and camshafts it's pathetic. There's no way in HELL I'd run anything from them now. I wouldn't even run a roller. I don't trust anything but their springs and I test those.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I guess you've been living under a rock. Comp has had so many failures of lifters and camshafts it's pathetic. There's no way in HELL I'd run anything from them now. I wouldn't even run a roller. I don't trust anything but their springs and I test those.
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I just turned 20 I think im just now old enough to get out from under the rock for the first time.
 
CLAY72dart said:
I just turned 20 I think im just now old enough to get out from under the rock for the first time.
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Then I suggest you do a search and find out. If you carry on with your cam choice, I wish you luck.
 
CLAY72dart said:
I read up on it so I’m basically screwed if I don’t get a perfect break in.
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I did everything right recently and wiped almost every lobe on a big Chevy cam. First failure I've had on over forty years of workin on cars.
 
The problem is not people not "doing everything perfect", the problem is piss poor metallurgy.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Please explain that, gears and displacement
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273 said:
same power/performance.
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Are the Key words

273 said:
To me gears and displacement are opposite sides of the same coin, make one bigger the other got be smaller for
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Say 2 cars one with a 340 and the other a 440 both putting similar hp to the ground at similar road speeds.

Eg.. A Peak hp of 300 to the ground at 110 mph on 28" tires, 110 mph with 28" tires is a tire rpm of 1321 rpm. tq at ground = hp x 5252 / rpm so 1193 tq. So no matter what realistic rpm these engines make peak hp at and what tq at peak hp both will put same hp/tq to the ground.

With the large displacement difference the 440 will make peak hp at lower rpm with more tq and use a higher gear ratio than the 340 to put 300 hp and 1193 tq to the ground at 110 mph.

Equal power to ground at at same road speeds, Larger Cid = Smaller/Higher Gear ratio, Smaller Cid = Larger/deeper Gear ratio. Generally Cid gets larger, Gears get higher and vice versa.
 
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You're twenty and you already hit a tree and now you want more horsepower...
An unbalanced stroker kit is $1750+ for a 318=390....
A balanced 360=408 stroker kit is about $1750..
The reason is 360s are just done more often, so the kits more plentiful thus more cheap... A balance is about $250 so if you can get a 360 block to start with= free hp...
Machine shop work gaskets and we haven't even started on the heads yet...
My first question would be what's your budget??...
 
CLAY72dart said:
Just wondering if the group has a preference on a stroker kit. I don’t want to buy something that’s not going to last.
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Whatever one you choose, Make sure it's gonna give you the right valve clearance and compression ratio, and I don't mean listed but actual measured cr with your parts, heads, gasket etc..
 
i always start out with: what is your intended application for the car? daily driver? hot street machine? saturday night street brawler? burger cruiser? nice car with a reasonably warmed over mill that i can drive anywhere?

not all of these are mutually exclusive, there is a little bit of venn in all of 'em. but making your choices now and deciding on a direction is important because the course you choose dictates other aspects of the build as a whole.

i think that cam is butt. it probably sounds cool AF at idle, though. unless you got the induction (ported heads, big carb) and a bunch of stall or 4spd and some gears, at least 3.55's, then even with a stroker that thing is gonna be dogshit downtown.
 
CLAY72dart said:
I read up on it so I’m basically screwed if I don’t get a perfect break in.
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You ain’t screwed. Like I said, don’t fixate on the cam. That’s the least of your concerns. Put the cam and lifters on the shelf and turn your attention towards the foundation. When you get to what an ideal cam would be then it’ll all make sense.
We all have bought parts akin to putting the cart before the horse. Dopamine highs run amuck. Worse case scenario is you sell that cam, lose a little cash but ultimately you get the ideal one. So you lost a little money in the ordeal. Big deal. We’ve all been there.
Keep an open mind, the guys here will steer you right. :)
 
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I was going to go with Hughes myself.. there are a ton of companies out there though, hard to choose.
 
273 said:
Are the Key words


Say 2 cars one with a 340 and the other a 440 both putting similar hp to the ground at similar road speeds.

Eg.. A Peak hp of 300 to the ground at 110 mph on 28" tires, 110 mph with 28" tires is a tire rpm of 1321 rpm. tq at ground = hp x 5252 / rpm so 1193 tq. So no matter what realistic rpm these engines make peak hp at and what tq at peak hp both will put same hp/tq to the ground.

With the large displacement difference the 440 will make peak hp at lower rpm with more tq and use a higher gear ratio than the 340 to put 300 hp and 1193 tq to the ground at 110 mph.

Equal power to ground at at same road speeds, Larger Cid = Smaller/Higher Gear ratio, Smaller Cid = Larger/deeper Gear ratio. Generally Cid gets larger, Gears get higher and vice versa.
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OK, gotcha, under wide open throttle applications, yes. At cruise, no one cares because your just cruising. I see where your coming from.
 
CLAY72dart said:
I read up on it so I’m basically screwed if I don’t get a perfect break in.
Click to expand...
The worst case of s you take the entire engine apart and clean it up, put it back together and install the new cam and go.
That route sucks if you have a failure. “IF.”

The other thing with the cam as 273 was pointing out is the duration (actually what is really important, the overlap) dictates where the cam is going to make the power. It should operate daily well in the listed rpm range given by Comp Cams.

I’ve noticed all the kits available for a 318/390 stroker and they vary a little bit. The idea of one lasting only for a short time has more to do with your right foot being to heavy. A cast crank can take a 600 hp build easy enough. So can a cast hyperutecic piston. If you’re in the street and plan on a car nine making 525 & less, it’ll last a long time unless you’re constantly pounding the gas pedal. If you do that, even a forged crank and piston set up die an early death.

The kits available are normally really good quality packages. It’s the abuse they suffer that shortens there life span no matter what there made of.

What is your power goal? Or track ET goal?
What transmission, rear gear & tire size do you plan on?
 
j par said:
You're twenty and you already hit a tree and now you want more horsepower...
An unbalanced stroker kit is $1750+ for a 318=390....
A balanced 360=408 stroker kit is about $1750..
The reason is 360s are just done more often, so the kits more plentiful thus more cheap... A balance is about $250 so if you can get a 360 block to start with= free hp...
Machine shop work gaskets and we haven't even started on the heads yet...
My first question would be what's your budget??...
Click to expand...
Budget I would say is 4-5000 for the motor.
 
rumblefish360 said:
The worst case of s you take the entire engine apart and clean it up, put it back together and install the new cam and go.
That route sucks if you have a failure. “IF.”

The other thing with the cam as 273 was pointing out is the duration (actually what is really important, the overlap) dictates where the cam is going to make the power. It should operate daily well in the listed rpm range given by Comp Cams.

I’ve noticed all the kits available for a 318/390 stroker and they vary a little bit. The idea of one lasting only for a short time has more to do with your right foot being to heavy. A cast crank can take a 600 hp build easy enough. So can a cast hyperutecic piston. If you’re in the street and plan on a car nine making 525 & less, it’ll last a long time unless you’re constantly pounding the gas pedal. If you do that, even a forged crank and piston set up die an early death.

The kits available are normally really good quality packages. It’s the abuse they suffer that shortens there life span no matter what there made of.

What is your power goal? Or track ET goal?
What transmission, rear gear & tire size do you plan on?
Click to expand...
I was wanting to keep my automatic trans but I will swap to manual if needed It would just factor into the engine cost. I rebuilt the auto a few months back after I burned it up with better clutches. I just want around 450 horsepower. And I want the tires a lot more meaty.
 
junkyardhero said:
i always start out with: what is your intended application for the car? daily driver? hot street machine? saturday night street brawler? burger cruiser? nice car with a reasonably warmed over mill that i can drive anywhere?

not all of these are mutually exclusive, there is a little bit of venn in all of 'em. but making your choices now and deciding on a direction is important because the course you choose dictates other aspects of the build as a whole.

i think that cam is butt. it probably sounds cool AF at idle, though. unless you got the induction (ported heads, big carb) and a bunch of stall or 4spd and some gears, at least 3.55's, then even with a stroker that thing is gonna be dogshit downtown.
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Honestly I intend on sliding this car around parking lots with people I don’t know. I’m trying to race at night. But also drive around with my wife on the weekends.
 
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