j par
Well-hung Member
How has that worked for ya so far...
Stroker advice
- Thread starter CLAY72dart
- Start date
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junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
lol wut?
sliding the car around parking lots, is that a twee way of saying autocross? trying to race at night, as in bracket race or street race for S&G's? drive around on the weekends, like road trip?
please to clarify your position
mygasser
Well-Known Member
hence the telephone pole
You wild man, you.
I was wild when I was younger, the only advice I have is do not street race, go to the track.
I test and tune on back roads by myself, way away from anyone, the only person that could possibly die is me and that can happen easy at 120mph on a short blast.
When I was 17 I was driving and ditched my friends beautiful 64 goat after it loss traction during a street race, nobody got hurt but I caused $5,000 damage to it at 1979 costs.
Once again, be smart and take care of your investment and possibly a friends, **** can happen during a street race. Don't do it.
Like You stole it, or like You wanna be buried in it?
What color is that on the car, assuming the avatar is it?
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I mean like highway and red light races. And when I ride with my wife it’s usually slow for a few hours in the night.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I’m honestly not sure on the color it was painted before I bought it.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
honestly, sounds like you'd be better off with a new RT or hellcat.
anyway, what's your budget like? do you have it broken down into allotments? this much for engine, this much for transmission, this much for rearend, this much for suspension/chassis work?
because it's not all: built a stroker and now i'm billy badass, time to go party with my rickey racer friends.
also, a highway race (?) build is going to be vastly different than a saturday nite stop light eliminator car.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I think i would want more pull off the light power than driving on the highway. I’ve found a track near my house I will probably actually race the car around at. And no I kinda just throw money at the car until it works.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I was hoping 4-5 thousand for the engine and another 1500-2000 for the brake kit and I’m trying to find a beefy rear for the car. I will probably just take one from a junkyard rt and make it work.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I think I just tracked down a pair of 360 heads and maybe a block to have worked for the car.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
this is an excellent way to spend a whole pile of money and wind up with a bunch of really nice parts that don't work well together what so ever.
think. decide. plan. execute.
it'll be an easier road if you determine what you can compromise on: purpose wise (top speed or light to light performance), performance wise (how many horsepowers do i need), budget wise (need bling, don't need bling), limitations of self (can do this work, cannot do this work) from the start.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
That's a terrible choice for a 390 inch small block. Bigger cam, and figure your compression ratio. What I got from your question was which piston for my 390 stroker kit should I be using with this camshaft on pump gas and that's reading into it even
Here's what it looks like when someone drives a stroked small block like they stole it.
My buddy bought the car salvage and we're putting the whole driveline into his D100. He is parting the rest, and will basically get a $10k stroker for free.
SixPaksRule
Well-Known Member
The latest fad is to overcam & not enough carburetor for a stroker engine that is being street driven. Everyone is fixated for some high peak hp number for bench racing rather than letting the cubic inches run and be a very large stick across the rpm range. Having built/run the hell out of more than one six pak stroker engine i may have a clue or two what beats up hemi cars and the like. A six pak or spreadbore carb is essential to a big stick stroker engine running as it should. The secondaries opening should be like the nitrous button was pushed & btw square bore or dual quad carbs DO NOT give this type of performance. Period.
The cam spec'd is ok as it is a split lift/duration cam and it's 390 cubes.
I would run it. For reference look at Racer Brown SSH25-44 a split lift/duration cam. Specs are in the large direct connection manual.
The cam spec'd is ok as it is a split lift/duration cam and it's 390 cubes.
I would run it. For reference look at Racer Brown SSH25-44 a split lift/duration cam. Specs are in the large direct connection manual.
Latest fad? Naaaaaa, that’s normal and done for decades!
IMO, again, don’t worry about the cam, use the 340 block, stroke it with an all forged rotating assembly.
Can you port your own heads?
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
No I bought a pair of 360 915 heads for the build. Is 400 dollars a good amount for them?
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I
I’m not worried about the cam honestly I’m just trying to collect parts that will work together so I can build this thing. I think the thread got more fixated on how I’m going to drive the car and less on what stroker kit has the best results. I rebuilt my 904 transmission off of this forum after never working on one alone. I’m just trying to do that with the motor.
CLAY72dart
Well-Known Member
I’ll explain to you how I think this build works. I’m assuming i take the entire motor apart then take the block to an engine shop for testing. Then it gets honed to 30 60 or 90 over then I buy the stroker kit corresponding to the bore then I get heads ported then it gets put back together with new parts and I run it. If I’m wrong please tell me where so I can learn. I have a 4 barrel intake and carb I would like to use a high flow water pump and other parts.
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