Supercuda's on the way back...after18 years!

[cjoseph]

that's a beautiful car! thanks for sharing it

 

[Super-Cuda]

that's a beautiful car! thanks for sharing it

Thanks cjoseph!

Looks like you've acquired a great project as well. Have fun with it!

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thought I'd share some pics of an automatic console converted to a 4-speed console. Full conversion including new 4-speed top plate, ash tray and console lid .

 

[4spdragtop]

Looks beautiful! Repop top plate? What kind of paint?

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks 4spdragtop!

The paint is a special satin fleet coating that I found at Canadian Tire. The top plates are from PG Classics. Really good quality pieces. The only thing that is not included with them are the speed nuts that anchor the plates to the console and they are impossible to find so be careful with them when removing them. Also have since installed the carpet pieces and have the console in the car. It fits perfect and the hurst shifter works great with no interference. Visually, you can't tell the difference between the auto and the manual console when it is installed so for those who don't want to spend upwards of 1000.00 plus to buy and restore an original 4-speed console, this is an excellent option.

 

[999yards]

Awesome.

 

[TF360]

Wow!

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks for the great comments guys!

Just thought Id share a little trick I used when restoring the console body. If you look at the pics, you will see where I repaired cracks and missing pieces of the body. I used JB Weld for this as it was much easier to work with than filler. The trick I used to restore the finish of the console body after I had sanded it smooth and removed the original factory texture was to wait until the JB Weld was almost dry but still tacky. Then, I used a piece of old seat cover material that had a very similar texture and glued it around a 2" piece of PVC pipe. I then rolled this seat material back and forth over the repaired area until the seat pattern transferred into the tacky JB Weld. As you can see, it worked very well and once I painted the console body, the repair is almost invisible.

Hope this helps somebody else!

 

[4spdragtop]

Which JB weld? Pretty cool trick!

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks 4spdragtop!

BTW....
Forgot a step!
After sanding the repaired area, I skimmed over a very light layer of JB Weld. After it got tacky, then I rolled the pattern in.

 

[Del]

Beautiful. Amazing work

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks Del !!

 

[Super-Cuda]

Here ya go 4spdragtop,

Here is the paint I used for the console, sprays out really well and dries to almost a factory sheen. As well, here is a pic of the JB WELD products I used. I also included a pic of the panel bond adhesive I have used on a lot of different assemblies. One thing about it.... use it on parts you never want to disassemble again because once it hardens, its forever.

 

[Super-Cuda]

The interior is finally coming together. Here are some pics of the seats showing the Legendary Auto interior Rallye seat option I bought. I have the complete Deluxe interior including the door cards and carpeted seat backs. Have to say, Legendary makes awesome products but the website sucks! Its almost impossible to go through the items online and place an order. I finally had to call them, and once I spoke to someone, the service was extremely good !!
By the way, I have posted a pic of the seat stud replacement I found. I was going to bite the bullet and pay 50.00 US plus duties, shipping /

handling but I couldn't justify spending that for 8 studs. Soooo ,I took one of the old studs and went to Fastenal . Final price for the studs you see (I bought 8) was about 5$ !! Fits perfectly and is a grade 8 stud. I fastened them to the seat tracks using the panel bond in the previous pics and ended up with a factory looking install. Boy do we old car fans get screwed with buying parts for our cars!!
Anyway , onward with the re-assembly. More interior pics to follow.

 

[Super-Cuda]

.... Moving along nicely!! Here's the interior with the sound deadener installed. I initially was going to use Dynamat as that's what seemed to be most popular. I decided to shop around and boy am I glad I did! I ended up using Hush Mat instead. Identical thickness, got a lot more product and it was almost 200.00 cheaper here in Canada.

 

[qkcuda]

That's quite an optical illusion with the shifter ball sitting on the dash pad. In the first pic it looks like the shifter is about 3 feet long. Reminded me of this.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Good eyes qkcuda!
Never noticed it at all.

Funny!!!

 

[Super-Cuda]

I was just going through my restoration pics and found one I would like to share. Sorry about the sideways format but I don't know how to fix it. It may help someone else's decision when deciding to replace the single exhaust outlet rear valence with the dual outlet. In my opinion, I would never replace the whole panel again , just cut the exhaust outlet from the new panel and graph it in the proper location. I made this mistake and it cost a whole lot of time and money as that panel connects to so many different points it took forever to install. There was nothing wrong with the original valence, I just wanted the dual outlets. Big expensive mistake by me!!

 

[qkcuda]

My panel was solid, so I took the easy way out and made my own cutouts. Not factory, but good enough to pass.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks for the post qkcuda, That's probably what I should have done.
Factor in the cost of the panel, 260.00 US plus freight/shipping/duty from AMD, removing and replacing the old valence 20 hours!!! and you can get an idea of how much this cost for a slight mod to my car. Very dumb on my part. Oh well....live and learn!! Hope I can save someone else from this mistake.

 

[RPMagoo]

-- WOW! --

-- X2 -- --

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks RPMagoo and Capt46!!

 

[Super-Cuda]

I need some input on this guys if you can help me...

So I used an original 22" rad shroud with a Northern Aluminum radiator. I had to weld tabs to it so I could use the shroud .
Also used a mopar clutch fan and although it fit, the clutch is only 1/2 inch from the rad. I have the motor mounted to an Alterkation K Frame with spool mounts so im pretty sure the motor can't move forward and result in the clutch hitting the rad. However, this is my first time doing this and I would like to be sure. Let me know what you think , has anyone else had this problem/situation?

Thanks for any input guys.

 

[qkcuda]

You need one of these. I bought one, and it fits great with my big block and my stock 3 core rad, but I have to find a fan with shorter blades, because it just touches the seam of the top tank with the tip of the blades.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Thanks for the post qkcuda!

That should do the trick. Couple of questions.. will the fan I have mounted to my present clutch ( NOS Mopar clutch fan assembly) bolt to this?

Who did you order this from?

Thanks very much for letting me know about this!!!